Red Loctite Mistake

[Henryrifle]

On a Tikka TAC A1 chassis, I installed some relatively small flat head socket screws into the aluminum chassis using Red Loctite!!! I knew that I made this mistake before attempting to remove them and tried using heat from a small torch to heat the screws. Predictably, I striped the socket heads and as I had some barrel work to do, I drilled the heads off the screws.

Some of the screw(s) but not enough to put a vice grip on is still above the surface. I have not tried to remove the them at this point. As of now, there is no damage to any of the surfaces. I don't have a mill (yet) and am not sure what the best corse of action is?

Is this a machine shop kind of repair?

Thank you for your advice,
Henryrifle

 

[Twdmar]

Can you drill through them all the way? Perhaps them heat them with a soldering iron, if it could make enough heat? Then drive a torx bit in and try to turn them out.
Or maybe drill them out, tap the hole and install a threaded insert or a bigger screw. Either way, it sucks.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

If you can grind them flat and drill the exact center you can keep on stepping up bit sizes til it comes out as a coil. And keep the red loctite on the other side of the shop. It has zero place in a gun shop. The ONLY thing you should put red loctite on is something that if it comes loose will kill you, like some parts on a motorcycle.

 

[Punkur67]

Can you weld a nut on. I have successfully removed several broken bolts by placing a nut on and a quick weld inside the nut and they come right out. Here is an example on a larger scale

 

[Twdmar]

If you can grind them flat and drill the exact center you can keep on stepping up bit sizes til it comes out as a coil. And keep the red loctite on the other side of the shop. It has zero place in a gun shop. The ONLY thing you should put red loctite on is something that if it comes loose will kill you, like some parts on a motorcycle.

This is an even better idea.

Can you weld a nut on. I have successfully removed several broken bolts by placing a nut on and a quick weld inside the nut and they come right out. Here is an example on a larger scale

Welding a nut looks tough and the heat may soften the threadlocker. I worry these screws may be a bit small.

 

[coldboreshot]

Can you drill through them all the way? Perhaps them heat them with a soldering iron, if it could make enough heat? Then drive a torx bit in and try to turn them out.
Or maybe drill them out, tap the hole and install a threaded insert or a bigger screw. Either way, it sucks.

I agree with the last statement here...go directly to the tap and thread for the next size screw. Cleaner and faster. That red Loctite will cause issues. According to the pics, you have plenty of usable space to go one size up on a new fastener.

 

[KY_Windage]

I knew that I made this mistake before attempting to remove them and tried using heat from a small torch to heat the screws. Predictably, I striped the socket heads and as I had some barrel work to do, I drilled the heads off

You heated how? There is no red LocTite made that I cannot melt to oblivion with a nail, some vise-grips to hold the nail and a standard propane torch to heat the nail with. I do have to heat the nail for a few minutes, though.

Drilling to a larger size will certainly work. So might melting the LocTite and then using an "Easy-Out" style screw remover. You already have the hole started.

 

[sawcarver]

Red loctite releases at 500 degrees. Id drill a hole in the center with a left handed bit, heat then put an extractor in and spin them out

 

[marazzi59]

I like sawcarver idea but would also let kroil or wd-40 soak in to over a few days. Maybe do a soak with wd then heat then soak then heat and so on for a few days first

 

[skeeljc]

Enough heat is the solution. People are usually afraid of applying too much heat. I use a small butane torch, the kind you fill from a small butane cylinder. It has a very small, sharp flame. Just apply the flame directly to the screw head. When you see visible smoke or smell the LocTite burning you should then be able to remove the screw with little torque. Of course this only works when you apply sufficient heat BEFORE attempting to remove the screw!

 

[SecondsCount]

The problem with trying to apply heat to the broken screws is that they are in an aluminum chassis. The chassis is going to act like a heat sink and pull the heat from the screws.

 

[butchlambert]

Haven't had to do it in a few years, but I've had them burned with a plunge EDM machine and the existing tapped holes are reusable.

 

[KY_Windage]

The problem with trying to apply heat to the broken screws is that they are in an aluminum chassis. The chassis is going to act like a heat sink and pull the heat from the screws.

That is very true, but my nail gets up to over 2,000 d.F. Where the flame hits (right above the end that is touching the screw) it is glowing bright-red-hot. The aluminum cannot pull the heat out of the screw as fast as the nail can put it in.

 

[wkdickinson]

Maybe if you grind them flat, center punch them as exacy as possible, place in a drill press vise and align perfectly, direct heat them (soldering iron or "pencil torch") and then use a left-hand twist drill. I've never tried this on a gun, but have done it on other things. Often times the bit will catch enough to back them out.

 

[Henryrifle]

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone! A good cobalt drill bit, and Irwin extractor and a heat from the propane torch did the trick with no problems. The first screw started backing out when I thought the extractor was still biting into the drilled hole.

Thank you again!




Henryrifle

 

[DaveTooley]

On a thru hole a standard bit very often has enough bite to spin the screw on through.

 

[68W40 Retired]

Thanks guys! I learned a new trick.

68W40