Dillon RL1100 & Super 1050

[atraf24]

Newbie looking for some direction. Considering the >20 week backorder - I really need to order the right items the first round.

Intended setup: RL1100, setup with a bullet feeder and powder check, and I was going to order the Dillon carbides. Dedicated heads set for 9, 45, 223 - each with their own drop and powder check, and I want to load all with the bullet feeder and powder check.

My question is on the dies and if the dillon carbide 3 die set is what I need - or if I need a different final seat/crimp (or totally different dies period).

Station 1 - Case load
Station 2 - Decap
Station 3 - Expander
Station 4 - Priming
Station 5 - Powder
Station 6 - Powder check
Station 7 - Bullet feeder
Station 8 - Seat & crimp have to be the same die in the final station / 8 correct?

Will the dillon carbide 3 die set in each of the calibers I am doing work in this manner?
Do I need a different die set

THANKS!!!

 

[Hoser]

The 1050/1100 does not have enough stations to use a bullet feeder and a powder check if you plan to seat and crimp in separate steps.

I strongly recommend seating and crimping in separate steps. I have been loading on 1050s and now 1100s since the mid 90s. The first way to screw up your ammo is to crimp and seat in the same step. In fact, Dillon dies are not even set up that way. You will have to order a different company like RCBS or Redding seat die.

I tried the Dillon powder checks and didnt like them. Ended up getting rid of them.

The Mr Bulletfeeders are awesome. I have them in 9, 40, 45 GAP and 45 ACP. But the set up in 223 takes a lot of fiddling with. Not a fan.

Dillon pistol dies are all carbide, for rifle dies it is an option. I like their carbide rifle dies. I use them in 223, 308, 30 Carbine and 300 Whisper.

 

[atraf24]

The 1050/1100 does not have enough stations to use a bullet feeder and a powder check if you plan to seat and crimp in separate steps.

I strongly recommend seating and crimping in separate steps. I have been loading on 1050s and now 1100s since the mid 90s. The first way to screw up your ammo is to crimp and seat in the same step. In fact, Dillon dies are not even set up that way. You will have to order a different company like RCBS or Redding seat die.

I tried the Dillon powder checks and didnt like them. Ended up getting rid of them.

The Mr Bulletfeeders are awesome. I have them in 9, 40, 45 GAP and 45 ACP. But the set up in 223 takes a lot of fiddling with. Not a fan.

Dillon pistol dies are all carbide, for rifle dies it is an option. I like their carbide rifle dies. I use them in 223, 308, 30 Carbine and 300 Whisper.

As a complete first timer - I thought the powder checks would be the best way to ensure to avoid over or under loading. Or are the dillon powder drops good enough to set and go (with periodic checks)?

 

[Hoser]

Or are the dillon powder drops good enough to set and go (with periodic checks)?

I think so. Mine throw pistol powders like Titegroup and Clays to within a tenth or less of a grain of what my target is.

However if you are a new reloader, a 1100 with a bulletfeeder wouldnt be my first choice.

 

[Twdmar]

When you say first timer, this isn't your first reloading press, right? I love my progressive but it's a lot to figure out if you don't know how to reload alreadu.
If it's not your first press, you will love it. Unless you're planning to do production though, I don't think you need a bullet feeder. Do you have enough primers to justify a bullet feeder.
I use a xl650 for rifle and pistol. I do sometimes load all in one step for pistol but with rifle, sizing/deprime etc are done in one step, then the brass is.cleaned and a new tool head for loading.
The new xl 750 is better because the priming station is improved. With my 650 for rifle I hand prime and then put the brass jn the case feeder.

 

[powderbrake]

If you have not loaded on a single stage press, I recommend you do not buy a Dillon 1100. Learning to reload, and learning the things you need to learn about each step of the process says you need a single stage press.

I recommend a RCBS Rockchucker, a set of carbide pistol dies ( pick whatever caliber you want to start with) a vibratory cleaner for your cases, a powder measure, a digital scale that reads to 0.1 grains, a primer seater ( unless you can snag a used RCBS II which has one included) and the miscellaneous small items normally used. I recommend you find a mentor or buddy who is a reloader, and have him guide you.

In the future, when you are proficient, have purchased and used your progressive press, you will find the single stage press valuable when you start to develop new loads. It will be money well spent.

I have two Dillon 500 progressive presses, and the original Rockchucker press I bought 40 or so years ago is still mounted right next to the Dillons and sees frequent use.

 

[atraf24]

I truly appreciate the caution from everyone, and I understand why it's not a good idea for a lot of people to start there. I have a very strong engineering background. I have the ability to take an ID/concept drawing, take to prototype, and design the tooling for production after proof. I'll be OK starting off with a progressive.

I shoot a lot, and the whole purpose of this is to reload thousands in a single caliber at a time. I'll have dedicated heads, and I know I'll have to change the primer system. If I were only planning to do a few hundred per caliber at a time, there's no way I'd want to swap a 1100/1050 over that much.

It seems the consensus is to lose the powder check, separate the seat and crimp. I'm also looking at the Mark 7 presses with 10 stations, possibly incorporating a trim station in for 223. I've only started researching them, Dillon is still in the #1 spot for now. THANKS!!!

 

[rijndael]

When I was shooting 10-15K pistol rounds per year, I jumped in to reloading with a Super 1050. It paid for itself in the first year.

My only piece of advise is that when you're learning and hit a problem that stops your press, don't fix the issue and move on, I highly recommend fixing the issue AND clear out all of the stages.

Once you get a handle for everything that's going on, and know how each (different type of) hiccup feels in the press handle, then you can work on how to clear things without emptying all of the stages.

 

[atraf24]

Thanks rijndael! That I will absolutely do. A bullet puller was on the shopping list for sure...lol.

 

[dc.fireman]

I truly appreciate the caution from everyone, and I understand why it's not a good idea for a lot of people to start there. I have a very strong engineering background. I have the ability to take an ID/concept drawing, take to prototype, and design the tooling for production after proof. I'll be OK starting off with a progressive.

I shoot a lot, and the whole purpose of this is to reload thousands in a single caliber at a time. I'll have dedicated heads, and I know I'll have to change the primer system. If I were only planning to do a few hundred per caliber at a time, there's no way I'd want to swap a 1100/1050 over that much.

It seems the consensus is to lose the powder check, separate the seat and crimp. I'm also looking at the Mark 7 presses with 10 stations, possibly incorporating a trim station in for 223. I've only started researching them, Dillon is still in the #1 spot for now. THANKS!!!

I learned to reload on a Dillon Super 1050 in .223 Rem. It was time consuming, frustrating, and educational. I made many, many mistakes, but through an abundance of caution, and following simple, but time worn rules, here I am today. I still have the S1050, but it sits mostly silent. I am in complete agreement with @Hoser about Dillon's Powder Check Die - it's worthless.

There are many, many aftermarket enhancements/improvements available on the 'net for the 1050. One of the better ones involves a bearing placed under the shellholder to aid in smoothing out the advancement. I highly recommend that.

As a shooter, you're aware of how the firing process works - so your learning curve is reduced considerably from someone stepping into the hobby from square one.

My recommendations are:

- have reasonable expectations in regards to accuracy
- go slow, work your loads up like everyone else. Dillon's powder measures have a little 'slop' in them
- get a small vacuum, like one for computers - you'll need it
- Federal Match primers aren't recommended in Dillon's progressive presses.
- use your hands for the first couple of months or so, to get a 'feel' for the press, before you go to the Ponsness-Warren type devices out there.

- buy the extra primer fill tubes. A lot of them. You can spend an hour or so loading the primers into the fill tubes, and then you can work quickly to refill the primer magazine.

-The Dillon bench top swager is a great tool - consider it.
-The Dillon Rapid Trim is also a great tool - consider it.
-I have never used the Dillon Primer fill vibrating tool, but I like the concept.

Get used to taking the upper half of the press apart, to clean out powder spills, primer jams, and occasional crud. It goes quickly, but it is necessary from time to time.

I ended up buying an RCBS Rock-Chucker IV single stage press about a year after the 1050. I bought a Bonanza Co-Ax press about two years ago - it's the one I prefer most now, over everything else.

Best of luck to you - what you seek to do, can be done.

-tc