I don't agree with you considering my chamber isn't oversizedYou apparently failed to read or comprehend my post #88 ............or you don't believe it valid.
			
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I don't agree with you considering my chamber isn't oversizedYou apparently failed to read or comprehend my post #88 ............or you don't believe it valid.
That doesn't make sense going with a smaller bushing undersizing from the sized case, considering, I said the chamber size is .333 and the fired case is .340. As far as babied, I'm just making it more interesting that's all.I'm not really trying to antagonize LHSmith, but I'm not certain why he brought custom actions vs factory actions into this when we are talking about how brass fits the chamber.
Not knowing what gun it is for, or what activity (I'm assuming not F-Class competition, haha), I'd try a bushing that measured 0.003 or 0.004 less than your loaded neck diameter. So if a loaded round (not a fired round) measures in at say 0.334, I'd start with a 0.330 bushing. That should be enough tension for a hunting/general use round that doesn't spend it's life babied from press to chamber.
Your chamber cannot be .333 and a fired case .340. If your fired case is .340 your chamber is around .342 if your brass is fairly freshThat doesn't make sense going with a smaller bushing undersizing from the sized case, considering, I said the chamber size is .333 and the fired case is .340. As far as babied, I'm just making it more interesting that's all.
Well I have read it and you keep going back to that post and, well, I disagree with you respectfully.You apparently failed to read or comprehend my post #88 ............or you don't believe it valid.


I just used wet 1500 sandpaper,I have 2 Sinclair tools and a PMA. One Sinclair is the old nt-3000. I use it to turn my .223 cases. It make a very smooth cut but is a little hard to set. Once set, it makes a beautiful cut. The newer sinclair (dont remember the model) is easier to set up. I use it for my 6.5x47L cases. I replaced the original cutter( the way the cutter was ground, it did not sit parallel with the mandrel) with a carbide cutter from PMA. Now it makes a beautiful smooth cut. I also have them PMA model A and B I use for my 6br. The B cutter to set to cut from .013 to .011, the A cutter cuts from .011 to .010. Beautiful, smooth, straight cuts. The best of the 3. Both of the PMA tools came with carbide cutters. All the mandrels I use are carbide as well. I use the Sinclair shell holders (btw: made by PMA) and drive them with a battery powered drill driver.
A couple of notes: I use feeler gauges to verify my settings on the cutters. I bought one of the Hornady units. It was easy to adjust, but made a terrible cut. A lot of deep gouges that I could not smooth out. The cutter was not ground so it was parallel to the mandrel. The mandrels were too small in diameter. It sits in my box of bad purchases.
PopCharlie
used wet 1500 sandpaper on my Forster carbide cutterI have 2 Sinclair tools and a PMA. One Sinclair is the old nt-3000. I use it to turn my .223 cases. It make a very smooth cut but is a little hard to set. Once set, it makes a beautiful cut. The newer sinclair (dont remember the model) is easier to set up. I use it for my 6.5x47L cases. I replaced the original cutter( the way the cutter was ground, it did not sit parallel with the mandrel) with a carbide cutter from PMA. Now it makes a beautiful smooth cut. I also have them PMA model A and B I use for my 6br. The B cutter to set to cut from .013 to .011, the A cutter cuts from .011 to .010. Beautiful, smooth, straight cuts. The best of the 3. Both of the PMA tools came with carbide cutters. All the mandrels I use are carbide as well. I use the Sinclair shell holders (btw: made by PMA) and drive them with a battery powered drill driver.
A couple of notes: I use feeler gauges to verify my settings on the cutters. I bought one of the Hornady units. It was easy to adjust, but made a terrible cut. A lot of deep gouges that I could not smooth out. The cutter was not ground so it was parallel to the mandrel. The mandrels were too small in diameter. It sits in my box of bad purchases.
PopCharlie
the case holder and cutter is floating, suppose to find and maintain center while cuttingI have a question concerning the 21st Century Tool. Never owned one, so I'm just going by the videos online. It appears to me that when starting to align a case for turning you have to align the case mouth and arbor by tweaking them either up or down. Because of this "tweaking", it appears to me that the case enters the arbor with some side pressure. Wouldn't that cause some off canter turning?
I just turned the neck to see the difference... I'm not loading itAFTER you seat a bullet in that fine looking case neck measure the OD with a caliper and report back.
I know I cut alot more off than I should have...You missed the point......
There is an assumption by the participants who are offering you advise and that is "If you ask a question then you are trying to learn or gain insight." However, if you immediately respond staccato style with challenging/contrary opinions or sharp tone then people start thinking that you are either Trolling or obtuse. I will try to help.I'll just try a expander I have and see how it goes. Have you done chamber casting to know that factory neck clearances are generous?
so what's your point?You missed the point...
Again you've missed the point of the exercise
 

