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Stuck case ,head separation Removel?

Reversing an oversize brush is the first thing to try. If it is a 223 or 308, or 30-06 you can also try GI type broken case extractor tools. Sometimes a tap threaded into the brass and knocked out will work. Be careful with this one, you can tap (and ruin) the chamber if you are not careful. Sure-fire way is to cast some bismuth alloy into the chamber and knock the whole mess out when it hardens. If there is Kroil in there it will raise hell with any alloy or epoxy sticking to the case. Even after blasting 3 or 4 times with brake cleaner it will still migrate into the area you want to bond and ruin your efforts. The only thing of this nature that smells worse than Kroil is Ballistol. Did I mention I hate Kroil?? ;)
 
I have removed them by using a brass cleaning brush that has a outside diameter slightly larger than the interior size of the stuck case. Insert the cleaning brush into the stuck case body and give a twist so that it is gripping tightly and then a rearward pull and they have always slid out easily for me. Do not force the oversize brush into the rifling though or you will have a different issue with the brush being stuck in the rifling.

drover
 
The only time I had this was on a contender bbl so it was more accessable than a bolt action would be but if I had it on a bolt action it was so easy I would go for it with a 3/8 extension and socket.
I used a just a little bigger EZ out than the case. Mine was a K-Hornet. I just tapped it and it jumped right out. Gary
 
90% of the time they come out really easily. Cleaning brush thing works pretty good. I like to go in from chamber end, and get the brush into the neck, then pull back.

There's no reason for the front part of the case to stick very tightly.

With my 218 Bee, I never throw a case away until its cracked or separated. :rolleyes: Yeah I'm bad.
When they separate, I can actually reach into the chamber with a wire or some-such and flick the broken case out. jd
 
A piece of all thread of the appropriate size will grab the brass and not damage the chamber. I have removed a few (not mine by the way) with that over the years.
 
I’m sure it’s not the best option or somebody would have said it, just push a cleaning rod with a slightly snug brush on it all the way through from the muzzle end. So why is that not a good idea?
 
I’m sure it’s not the best option or somebody would have said it, just push a cleaning rod with a slightly snug brush on it all the way through from the muzzle end. So why is that not a good idea?
You may well end up with a bent cleaning rod and at least a bent brush. Instead, run the rod from the action through the barrel and out the muzzle. Screw on the brush and pull it back through. Nothing gets bent.
 
A round rat tail file works well also. Tape up the body leaving just the front part exposed. Run it in and give it a good twist to get a bite on the case. A tap with a cleaning rod from the muzzle or a tap on a pair of pliers in front of the handle also works.
I've also used a tap for cutting threads to grip the ID of the case.
 
Here is proof there is more ways than one to skin a cat. When I was 14 I had a case separation in my Savagev340 .222. My dad was not a gun guy, my best friends dad is who started me in this sport. Not wanting to tell anyone I had a problem I went to the basement and hit upon an idea. I found a long wood screw that fit in the case remains. I gave is a slight twist until I felt it engage the case and it practically fell out into my hand. Now that I am experienced shooter I have learned the0 cleaning brush method is perferred.
 

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