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Turning necks for standard FL dies???

I own bushing dies and understand how they work. But how would you figure out the nominal ID of the neck section on a standard FL Die?

I figure if you measure neck OD and neck thickness, resize without expander and remeasure neck OD and subtract the combined thickness and -.001 spring back. You’ll have the Dies neck section ID. No? There has got to be a variable I am missing somewhere.

Any suggestions on how to go about this.

Just have a few rifles that are rarely shot and would like to dial in the neck tension.


Jon
 
I use gage pins. It is a direct way to know what the die is doing.

Clean it first, and use lubricant like Imperial or lanolin to make sure you don't get stuck with the gage pin.
 
I use gage pins. It is a direct way to know what the die is doing.

Clean it first, and use lubricant like Imperial or lanolin to make sure you don't get stuck with the gage pin.
So instead of buying a whole set or small sets of gauge pins. Could one just get say .003 below caliber for the desired caliber. Get some factory fodder pull the bullets turn the necks in .005 intervals. Reseat the bullets fire them. Full length size them and then use a pin gauge on the sized brass?

Once you have a case that has a slight interference fit would that not be the proper neck sizer OD? I just looked at the price for a pin gauge set and I’d be better off just getting a bushing bump die.

Also gauging the brass lessens the chance of damaging your dies.

Jon
 
I own bushing dies and understand how they work. But how would you figure out the nominal ID of the neck section on a standard FL Die?

I don't. I knock the high-spots off the necks (by turning), FL size and then expand back with a Sinclair tool to give me the neck-tension I want.
 
I just looked at the price for a pin gauge set and I’d be better off just getting a bushing bump die.
The typical pin gage sets on Ebay are not particularly expensive. Vermont Gage brand, I assume made in China, but they mic out within spec. I've got every gage from .011 to .500 in .001 increments, in three sets. Mine are the "minus .0002" type, Class ZZ I think. Once you have them, you'll find a myriad of uses for them, believe me, and not just around handloading.
-
 
But how would you figure out the nominal ID of the neck section on a standard FL Die?
I also typically use pin gauges. But before I had the set I needed to do this, I would take a pure lead muzzleloader ball, roll it down to around the diameter I needed and use an oak dowel to shove it through my sizing die. About the same way I slug a revolver, just slightly different.
 
Just have a few rifles that are rarely shot and would like to dial in the neck tension.
Most dies waaaaay oversize the case necks and let the expander do the heavy work of enlarging them. I hone my die necks to the diameter I want, and I have to enlarge some as much as 0.008" to get even close. I also find that if your expander has to increase the case neck diameter by more than 0.002" it IS GOING to pull the neck off center. And that is with a carbide expander and the inside of the case neck lubed.
 
Canuck
If I neck turned my brass I would agree with your thinking . I tried the Redding S Type bushing dies to play with neck tension , without neck turning I used the expander . My run-out was horrible , went back to my standard RCBS standard full length die , gave me .003 neck tension with brass on the thick size like Federal , ADI and HSM , and still my groups were good , run-out was .001 . Neck tension didn't do much for me in group size . The best I can shoot is .5 at 200 yards with a mild load for my Remington 700 308 set up for benchrest only. If I was capable of shooting a one hole group then maybe neck turning and run-out would make a difference . Using the standard F/L die , Redding Competition seating die and a set of 5 competition shellholders works for me. I wet tumble my brass uniform my pockets , make flash holes all the same size . Works for me.
 
I own bushing dies and understand how they work. But how would you figure out the nominal ID of the neck section on a standard FL Die?

I figure if you measure neck OD and neck thickness, resize without expander and remeasure neck OD and subtract the combined thickness and -.001 spring back. You’ll have the Dies neck section ID. No? There has got to be a variable I am missing somewhere.

Any suggestions on how to go about this.

Just have a few rifles that are rarely shot and would like to dial in the neck tension.


Jon
I would just take a piece of fired brass, and size it without the decapping/expander stem in the die. then measure diameter of neck of that piece of brass. subtraact 001 for springback. that gives me a working idea what i need to do with the die. slugging the die or gauge pins like guys have indicated will get you a true measurement.
 
I use gage pins. It is a direct way to know what the die is doing.

Clean it first, and use lubricant like Imperial or lanolin to make sure you don't get stuck with the gage pin.
thats a good idea. I think my gage pins are to short though. a pin vice type tool might work but dont know. ill have to try it.
 
The typical pin gage sets on Ebay are not particularly expensive. Vermont Gage brand, I assume made in China, but they mic out within spec. I've got every gage from .011 to .500 in .001 increments, in three sets. Mine are the "minus .0002" type, Class ZZ I think. Once you have them, you'll find a myriad of uses for them, believe me, and not just around handloading.
-
In Canada cheapest I could find was 130 Canadian Pesos for a .200 to .500. I would only be doing 2 calibers 8mm Mauser and .303 Brit. I have slowly replaced all my other dies with Forster sets.
 
Forster recommends to measure a loaded round and subtract .004 for their honed neck size. And use the dies expander to set the final inside diameter.

I would also to keep things simple size a case without the expander and then measure the outside diameter. Then compare to a loaded round and see how much you are working the neck.

And you have no control on how much the neck expandes with a SAAMI factory chamber. And the more you reduce the neck thickness the more the neck will expand when fired.

I would just skim turn the necks and take off the high spots. This way you will work the necks less in a factory chamber.

Neck turned brass works best with tight neck chambers and bushing dies. And the more you reduce the neck diameter with a bushing die the greater the chance of inducing neck runout.

Below the 6.5 Guys got less neck runout with forster dies vs bushing dies and explain having the Forster dies neck honed.

 
In Canada cheapest I could find was 130 Canadian Pesos for a .200 to .500. I would only be doing 2 calibers 8mm Mauser and .303 Brit. I have slowly replaced all my other dies with Forster sets.

Below I replaced all my RCBS expanders with Forster expander and spindle units.

5kfnKwd.jpg


And on my Redding dies I installed modified Forster expand units by cutting down the spindle length.

kWbieba.jpg
 
So instead of buying a whole set or small sets of gauge pins. Could one just get say .003 below caliber for the desired caliber. Get some factory fodder pull the bullets turn the necks in .005 intervals. Reseat the bullets fire them. Full length size them and then use a pin gauge on the sized brass?

Once you have a case that has a slight interference fit would that not be the proper neck sizer OD? I just looked at the price for a pin gauge set and I’d be better off just getting a bushing bump die.

Also gauging the brass lessens the chance of damaging your dies.

Jon
Canuckenstein, Yes you can certainly get where you want to go without gages or inspection equipment. It really comes down to each of us to decide on how much we invest in tools that may or may not get used for general purposes at home, so I don’t blame you for not wanting to get gage pins if they will collect dust. (See if any of your friends already have a set they can loan you?)

After the responses, I think you can get the main points about FL die dimensions.

Most FL size dies overwork brass and may induce runout when the expander ball comes back through. The hybrid solution where the die diameter is honed and minimized usually produces the longest case life and lowest runout. There are also benefits from exploring the alternative methods for expansion using mandrels or ball sets that come in fine increments.

You would probably be better off with a bushing die if you don’t mind the investment. Neck turning also starts with brass at the correct diameter for a pilot mandrel in order to produce good results, so even there you would need to control the sizing. This is another argument for sizing controls with mandrels.

Neck turning brass may help brass runout in instances where the brass is of low quality to begin with. The relationship of the FL die dimensions and the chamber of sporter rifles can sometimes set up situations where this combination further works the brass over the long term, but only testing can answer if turning is any benefit in a sporter context. My guess is that outcome would be based on your brass and how many different batches and brands of brass you are running.

(Edit to add: you would also be ahead doing runout tests to know the threshold of when it even makes a difference. That means collecting the worst and best for a side-by-side test to see how much you get away with before you can even see it on paper.)

Many of us have been at this game for a lifetime and since a young age. As a result, we have many overlapping tools and methods to manage brass and neck tension. We often have to use our imagination to picture starting out late in life or from a standing start without the benefit of all the collected tools and mentoring.

My last guess is you will end up with all three capabilities on your bench, honed FL dies with more than one expander, a bushing die with a span of bushings, as well as neck turning equipment to satisfy your curiosity. But I will also guess you have more to gain from the first two and buying better brass so you can skip neck turning.
 
Below I replaced all my RCBS expanders with Forster expander and spindle units.

5kfnKwd.jpg


And on my Redding dies I installed modified Forster expand units by cutting down the spindle length.

kWbieba.jpg
Yah I just ordered a Forster 6.5x55 FL die my RCBS was giving brass that had zero run out fired. .005 sized and that’s no expander, she’ll holder loose ect ect. Believe me I tried everything, even switching brass.All brass was Norma all fired in one of 6 rifles I have chambered for it, I tried Winchester, PPU, and Geco brass. I know my rockchucker is capable of zero run out. My 22-250 will measure .0005 fired then once sized at most give .001 (Norma brass as well with hornady dies). I must say that the vintage (1964) rockchucker is great. But their dies are less to be desired.

I thought it was the vintage 6.5x55 dies that were the issue. But no I got a set of RCBS competition dies in 7mm RM (Norma Brass but tried others)run out was .004 at the neck .008 at ogive. Their replacement foresters are on the way. I will also be returning the RCBS competition dies to Vista.

All I can say is I will no longer purchasing RCBS products (At least not their dies)

Jon
 
Below I replaced all my RCBS expanders with Forster expander and spindle units.

5kfnKwd.jpg


And on my Redding dies I installed modified Forster expand units by cutting down the spindle length.

kWbieba.jpg
Hi Uncle Ed Is the die in picture a Redding type S die, I like the idea of keeping the expander high up in the die to help keep runout at min could you give details of expander parts used along with how expander was modified as thinking of doing same for my Redding S Die for my FTR .308 palma Brass Loads, Thanks.
 

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