Milling Machine Recommendations

[dakor]

Hello,

I am looking for metal milling machine recommendations as my current one is giving me issues and its older so its time for an upgrade. I am looking for a single phase 220 or 120 volt machine that would have a DRO, power feed and is a tight machine meaning no slop. I am hoping to spend $6000 or less. I am looking for something to make muzzle brakes on, drill and tap receivers along with making what ever I feel like.

 

[RDA72927]

Going to stick my nose in this thread. I'm looking to make my first Mill purchase and looking at this one....

https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-835smill/

Thoughts,

Robert

 

[tobnpr]

Pretty common consensus that for new, in that price range, PM is a solid Taiwanese machine and they have a good rep for support. I would go with one 100% Taiwanese over those with the tables made in China (they have both types)

I'll add- in case you're not familiar with inverters like Teco, that you can inexpensively run 3-phase motors off single phase in the shop using them. The days of huge, expensive and noisy phase converters are over for many applications (unless there's many 3-phase machines, with large HP). So, don't necessarily limit your search to single phase machines.

In fact, three phase motors are more efficient, steadier output, more reliable etc. than single phase.
If I were in the market, I'd go with three phase if available and power via an inverter. The inverter also provides easy ability to over/underspeed your motor easily without shifting belts or gears.

 

[flatlander]

My 1st lathe had a 3hp single phase motor that crapped-out on me just under a year after I bought it new in 2005, so it was still under warranty. Since JET didn't have any of these motors in the U.S. at the time, they sent me a check for $300 to cover the expense of buying whatever motor I could find that would fit. Instead of buying another single phase, I bought a U.S. Motors 3hp 3-ph motor, and had the local electrician come out and wire in a TECO FM100 VFD(inverter). He also had to make some changes in the lathe's wiring, but when he finished, it ran smoother than it did with the OEM motor, and has worked great ever since. I didn't buy the optional braking resister, so have got the VFD programmed to coast to a stop when the motor is shut down. Another advantage is that you can(and should) program the VFD for a 'soft start' which instead of starting at top RPM more-or-less instantly, lets the motor wind up to speed over whatever range of time you set it up to do - it's quite a bit easier on the lathe's gear head that way.

When I bought my 2nd lathe, I went with a 3ph machine to begin with, and ordered in a Hitachi SJ200 VFD for it. The JET 9x49 mill I bought in 2006 was also a single phase machine, though I've often wished I'd have bought the 3ph version of the same machine. So far, the single phase motor on the mill hasn't given me any problems, but if it ever does crap out, and I can find a 3ph motor that fits the mill head, I'll be buying another Hitachi VFD to run it.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

6k should get you a nice Bridgeport. Even a worn machine can give very accurate results if you learn the machine. ACER seems to have many positive recommendations for an import. I look at tools as a life long investment, if it takes another year to save for something better I would consider that.

 

[Stumpy1]

Going to stick my nose in this thread. I'm looking to make my first Mill purchase and looking at this one....

https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-835smill/

Thoughts,

Robert

I have one of these and absolutely love it.
It doesn't have a full 'nod' capability, so that is a minor drawback, but it does nod about 10 degrees, so tramming is easy to do.
It is a bit 'tall' to reach the drawbar (I'm 5'4" on a good day though...), but a stepstool fixes that.

Other than that, it is probably the nicest, tightest mill I have run.

Three thumbs up!

Frank

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I’m not a machinist with a bunch of experience around a lot of different makes and models but I’ll throw my two pennies in the pile.
I have a Precision Matthews with DRO and power feed table. I use it for all kinds of metal work and rifle stock work. They have many different sizes of models with many add-on options and tooling available when purchasing. They make an excellent machine and I have no complaints whatsoever. Highly recommended.

 

[INTJ]

I initially bought an PM 727V and quickly upgraded to an 833T. I wouldn't want one any smaller for gunsmithing. I think I could inlet a flat top long range BR stock but barely. It worked great to finish a semi-inlet BR stock (stock with just a 1.35" channel), and it worked well to cut an extractor slot for a CRF M-70.

If I had the space and funds, I would get a PM 949TV.

 

[dakor]

I am still doing research and a lot of this is new to me. I am looking at a PM 833T/TV cnc converted with a Rotary indexer so I can flute bolts if I would like to. I have never ran any kind of g code so this will be a learning curve if I go that route.

So I am trying to decide with that mill set as manual or as cnc.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

CNC machines are pretty cool and extremely accurate as long as you get the initial setup perfect. Manual operation is so much slower, but for some reason I just like to “feel” and “listen” to my work when using my mill manually. Let’s me know when something is not quite right, even if only very slightly off.

Of course I’m probably just saying that because I wish I had my own CNC. Lol!

 

[itchyTF]

I bought a Bridgeport with 2 axis CNC. Use it manually
most of the time but CNC really comes in handy.

 

[dakor]

Thanks for the info gentleman. I think I am going with that PM 833T/TV converted to CNC.

 

[Spotshooter]

I have a PM30 (precision matthaws) benchtop mill that works fine for smaller stuff... Definitely get a DRO.