Dusty Stevens
Shiner
With a hex wrench (allen wrench)
inconsistent powder throws - Harrell's?
- Thread starter CT10ring
- Start date
With a hex wrench (allen wrench)
A double - hmmm.
My bottle doesn't have a baffle in it?? I don't see baffles in their bottles on there site nor for sale separately??
I'm supposing that without a baffle, as the weight of the powder decreases in the bottle, and there being less of it every throw, that that is the reason I have to increase volume of throw as I use it?? To compensate I put more powder in after 50 rounds or so but would rather not have to think about it, I run 3-4 throws for things to stabilize before starting again.
I don't seem to have the same problem with the Dillon powder measures with baffles in them??
Would you elaborate please, I must be overlooking something.
I'm no expert but I attended a IBS match, as an observer, last year and watched the winner load rounds using a Harrell's charger. I asked him about it and he stated that it has won a lot of matches for him. When I researched his name, I found that he consistently finished in the top three places in matches.
I have found that the RCBS Chargemaster is not consistent and must be zeroed often to keep in within one gr. I then dump the charge into a balance scale and trickle from there.
I have never entered a match but I do strive for those small groups that everyone wants to brag about. I have been shooting a 6PPC. My question is how does the Harrell's work with extruded powder?
I have found that the RCBS Chargemaster is not consistent and must be zeroed often to keep in within one gr. I then dump the charge into a balance scale and trickle from there.
I have never entered a match but I do strive for those small groups that everyone wants to brag about. I have been shooting a 6PPC. My question is how does the Harrell's work with extruded powder?
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Its not in the bottle its in the powder measure itself. It has about a 1/4” hex hole that the powder has to go thru to get to the drum
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Unscrew that and do some drop tests. I think youll see itll be more consistent
divingin
Gold $$ Contributor
I use a Lee Classic as my go-to measure. I also use the nylon replacement drums as a quick-change system for different cartridges. Although they wear (drums and measure), they're cheap enough to replace without feeling bad about it.
I use the Harrells as a semi-portable, when I'm loading in the family room watching hockey or a movie or something.
Joe I was thinking the same thing when I read the opening post but didn't want to get everyone stirred up. You have to try one to believe how well they will accurately throw powder. Bought my first one brand new for $17.
I agree with you Joe. I've owned both Harrell's and Neil Jones powder measures and I weigh them on my Sartorius GD503 scale and I am not impressed with either measure. Needless to say I don't own a powder measure anymore. I got a new Chargemaster 1500 for zip last year and that out performed both powder measures.
I've always wondered if the improvement that people claim to see in their groups isn't more a result of improving their skills than any improvement in their equipment.
In other words, most people start the shooting game without any formal marksmanship training. And they notice that as they improve their equipment their groups get better, but don't forget, the most important part of shooting performance is the shooter. As you read about, practice, and improve your equipment you are also improving your skill set.
One of the most important shooting skill is attention to detail. When a competition shooter takes a shot he/she follows a check list in their head and one of the items you check off is Natural Point Of Aim (NPOA) - where the sights sit without outside influence. Eventually your use of NPOA is so automatic that you don't even notice that you do it, but just leave the step out of your mental check list and you'll see that your expensive reloading equipment doesn't make any difference at all.
So yes, I agree that greater precision in building the firearm and manufacturing the ammo will help improve the equipment's consistency but I suspect that the high dollar equipment is just a reflection of the shooter improving his skills, and even if you hadn't of bought the multi-thousand dollar powder dropper you would shoot tighter groups because you're a better shooter today than you were in the past.
In other words, most people start the shooting game without any formal marksmanship training. And they notice that as they improve their equipment their groups get better, but don't forget, the most important part of shooting performance is the shooter. As you read about, practice, and improve your equipment you are also improving your skill set.
One of the most important shooting skill is attention to detail. When a competition shooter takes a shot he/she follows a check list in their head and one of the items you check off is Natural Point Of Aim (NPOA) - where the sights sit without outside influence. Eventually your use of NPOA is so automatic that you don't even notice that you do it, but just leave the step out of your mental check list and you'll see that your expensive reloading equipment doesn't make any difference at all.
So yes, I agree that greater precision in building the firearm and manufacturing the ammo will help improve the equipment's consistency but I suspect that the high dollar equipment is just a reflection of the shooter improving his skills, and even if you hadn't of bought the multi-thousand dollar powder dropper you would shoot tighter groups because you're a better shooter today than you were in the past.
Ccrider
Gold $$ Contributor
@rammac, there is validity to what you say. The more I learn, the better I get. The more I throw with my Harrell’s the more consistent I get.
If my Es is out of line, I know it’s due to inconsistencies in the loading process, most of which I create; all I have control over. The key is to identify them. Once you do this, it’s pretty easy to find a fix.
If my Es is out of line, I know it’s due to inconsistencies in the loading process, most of which I create; all I have control over. The key is to identify them. Once you do this, it’s pretty easy to find a fix.
I have all the scales Joe R does plus and extra ChargeMaster...I use my Harrell’s for all loads to 600byds and the a and d, etc for extreme benchrest and beyond 600 yds only...that is the only place I see a noticeable difference... Glen Zediker goes over this in depth in his book loading for Competition...I have to Be able to shoot sometime. I throw 10 of my “weight” and divide that number by 10 for an average. Almost every time I am .02 low. One click up and I never check again that session...consitancy in operating the handle is key....good thread...PS the Dandy Trickler is a must have!
fwiw, I'm using an RCBS Chargemaster Lite. checking charge every 10 -15 Rounds on a Gempro. Then on a beam scale every few loads - for fun. Love the Chargemaster. retired the Harrell's. only for expediency. and getting lazy in my old age. my eyesight is good and groups at 500 are acceptable. other stuff "just for fun". I don't need affirmation 
- I'm just adding information.
- I'm just adding information.
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JAlfred
Silver $$ Contributor
On the poor, I throw and weight H4895 and Varget with a Lee PPM. Don't trust it enough to charge cases directly, but it does pretty good.
Rich Lee
rich lee
I dont shoot benchrest,only prarie dogs in a big way. Reload all my own ammo. I shoot a 6br with 55 grain nosler bullets, a .222 with 40 grn hornaday v- max and a 22.250 with 50 grn hornaday max and I throw all my loads with a harrels custom 90 that I have used for over 12 years and it is always consistant but you have to learn to throw consistantly.Ill put my harrels up against any scale on trhe market.
JAlfred
Silver $$ Contributor
A few generations of BR shooters would agree with you
divingin
Gold $$ Contributor
Exact scale I'm using.
I typically throw a charge (either measure or CM) and verify and adjust on the Adam (Highland) scale. I use a small scientific spatula to pull kernels from the weigh pan (if heavy) or a separate weigh boat (if light.)
Works for me.
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