Golden Eagle focus/parallax issues?

[6MMsteve]

Thanks for the tip. These blinds I used are lightweight plastic and 1" wide.

They may not be wide enough to do the job (I notice much wider ones at the 600 yd matches) but it's a start.

experiment with diff widths of shades I use 3 inch or you can get a scope tube, a guy on here makes them out of clear tube, he also makes them to fit your particular size scope threads.

 

[rckendall]

Vortex apparently does not recommend the use of a thread locking substance they say it lubricates the screws and results in too much compression on the tube,

I did a lengthy study on torque settings one time on a job and found the same thing. Some companies would recommend the anti-seize to use, but generally speaking torque values are for clean, dry threads.

Richard

 

[D-4297]

The OP may also install the "Sun Shield" , and find it helpful in deflecting Barrel Mirage , and it will assist the mirage shield . After-all ; the front of the scope , without the Sun Shield sits directly over the hottest part of the barrel . And a added benefit of using the Sun Shield will be assisting in "sighting-in" , on the correct target , thus reducing potential cross-fires . I have a GE on my TR .308 . The Sun Shield is a permanent fixture , and at age 70 with Trifocals , I very seldom go higher than 30x , and when the mirage starts to raise it's ugly little head midway thru the 2nd relay , I drop down to 24x or even lower .

 

[Outrider27]

I did a lengthy study on torque settings one time on a job and found the same thing. Some companies would recommend the anti-seize to use, but generally speaking torque values are for clean, dry threads.

Richard

Good advice. My employer, before I retired, allowed me to spend a quarter of a million dollars on friction coefficient testing over a ten year period, and the results were quite enlightening. Anti-seize compounds like Never-Seez work very well at reducing the friction coefficient, so if you use any graphite based compound like that and you have a dry torque, you need to reduce that value by 35 to 40%! In the unlikely event you tie into a molybdenum disulfide based anti seize, make that 50%.

And yes, Lok-Tite does have a significant lubricating ability, so if you wish to use it, you need to reduce the dry torque value; if memory serves, 20-25% reduction of the dry torque is sufficient.

Oddly enough (because what is referred to as a pressure additive is not for the type of load a threaded joint needs), motor oil, light oils like 3 -in-1 and axle grease are not great thread lubes from a standpoint of reducing friction as the fastener is loaded by the wrench, so you don't need to adjust dry torques for them. We actually had a test which used motor oil and (though it took significant magnification examining the thread surface finish to detect the difference) it came up with a very slightly higher mean friction coefficient than than a previous test (same test device, mechanic and procedure for both) with dry threads due to the difference in surface finish of the threaded portion of the fasteners, which were manufacturer's lots from two different manufacturers. Surface finish differences (that you can't detect with the naked eye) are a huge influence in the final preload developed in a threaded fastener system, much bigger than the accuracy of the torque wrench used, for instance.

 

[MatthewsCarbineCo]

I am sending a brand new Golden Eagle back... Parallax friction is non- existent so parallax changes between shots. So disappointed for the money spent... I now know personally why everybody raves avout Vortex warranty, it is because so many have had to use it.

 

[rckendall]

I am sending a brand new Golden Eagle back... Parallax friction is non- existent so parallax changes between shots. So disappointed for the money spent... I now know personally why everybody raves avout Vortex warranty, it is because so many have had to use it.

I had the same issues with my Golden Eagle and after a couple calls to Vortex I found that the ring screws were over-tightened, and when I brought them back to 16-18 in/lbs the problem went away.

Richard

 

[MatthewsCarbineCo]

I had the same issues with my Golden Eagle and after a couple calls to Vortex I found that the ring screws were over-tightened, and when I brought them back to 16-18 in/lbs the problem went away.

Richard

I am an engineer and have calibrated torque screw drivers and followed Vortex recommended torque values. Do not use loctite on screws..
It is a problem with the friction mechanism for parallax knob..

 

[6MMsteve]

I am an engineer and have calibrated torque screw drivers and followed Vortex recommended torque values. Do not use loctite on screws..
It is a problem with the friction mechanism for parallax knob..

I have a Trijicon 10mile I set the torque at 17 inch lbs, in other words 17 inch # is a decent number for a bench rifle is what I'm asking..

 

[MatthewsCarbineCo]

I have a Trijicon 10mile I set the torque at 17 inch lbs, in other words 17 inch # is a decent number for a bench rifle is what I'm asking..

I would follow the scope and ring manufacturers recommend settings.. Their engineers have hopefully done the work to prevent problems if you follow their recommendations.. Too many variables to consider in a vague question...

 

[Dgd6mm]

I think it's better to follow the scope manufacturing torque specifications than the ring manufacturers. I do it this way without issue. My VGE has performed flawlessly from day 1.

 

[6MMsteve]

17 inch pounds sounds like a good intermediate torque to me, if my scope can't handle it then so be it

 

[ballisticdaddy]

I am sending a brand new Golden Eagle back... Parallax friction is non- existent so parallax changes between shots. So disappointed for the money spent... I now know personally why everybody raves avout Vortex warranty, it is because so many have had to use it.

I have nine (9) different Vortex optics and only one of them had to be warrantied for a crooked reticle. I shoot roughly 10,000 rounds a year and have had to return Nightforce and March optics as well. So to say you are disappointed for the money you spent...you could be disappointed and spend twice as much.

 

[coldboreshot]

Maybe my old eyes are playing tricks on me but I'm going to ask the questions anyway.

New Vortex GE, 15-60X52.

It appears that when on the 600 yd range and looking at the targets, they will go out of focus and then come back in focus without adjusting the parallax. My power setting was 40X.

At first I thought maybe mirage from the barrel was causing this but the temps were in the 30 deg range and barrel temps were 104 deg. Then i thought maybe my eyes were going bad.

New pair of glasses so my vision is right on.

Anyone have this issue?

I don't see it on my Vortex PST II scope at 24 power.

After reading all the suggestions, I'm leaning toward Eye fatigue. In my experiences, a damaged internal erector will not cause transient focus issues without manual adjusting. If the erector goes it is usually permanent. Hate to say it but we share the same syndrome...old eyes.

 

[coldboreshot]

Maybe my old eyes are playing tricks on me but I'm going to ask the questions anyway.

New Vortex GE, 15-60X52.

It appears that when on the 600 yd range and looking at the targets, they will go out of focus and then come back in focus without adjusting the parallax. My power setting was 40X.

At first I thought maybe mirage from the barrel was causing this but the temps were in the 30 deg range and barrel temps were 104 deg. Then i thought maybe my eyes were going bad.

New pair of glasses so my vision is right on.

Anyone have this issue?

I don't see it on my Vortex PST II scope at 24 power.

Also make sure your eyepiece's fast focus is set properly. This can cause the optical confusion with the reticle forcing your brain's input to constantly readjust you eyes. Many entries in the forum have expressed parallax issues where the eyepiece focus was not adjusted properly to coincide with their parallax settings.