RELOADING PROCESS

[gtl1946]

I’ve been reloading for over 40+ years and it now appears ,because of this forum, that my process is not the best . After reading the forum about people having good luck with certain powders and primers for the case and bullet I’ve chosen I start at the middle of the starting and max load and set the bullet of choice touching the lands and working the loads up in small incremental amounts which is dependent on the size of the cartridge, .2 - .5 grn. jumps towards pressure signs. This is done with 3shot groups at 100 yds. as the greatest distance I can shoot is 500 yds. I don’t test OAL or primers until I have a load and refine from there. Are my groups one holers , no , but .2” -3” is common at the end. God help me with the PPC !

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Youll be fine. Practice behind the trigger is way more important.

 

[INShooter]

The 6PPC is sensitive to seating depth. Try moving it a little. Dusty also gave good advice.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

And on a ppc go IN toward the lands not out like the other advice youll probably get

 

[rkittine]

I owned a commercial reloading company in the 70s and 80s and after joining here and taking the PA 1000 Yard Original Bench Rest School three times (I still need a few more times there) I have learned how much I was doing wrong.

Bob

 

[gtl1946]

I was told by a tech for one of the bullet companies that the most important thing in a load was the bullet distance from the throat then the powder charge etc. It would seem to me that that is true but you need a powder charge first. You would refine from that point in my mind. Agree???

 

[JEFFPPC]

I was told by a tech for one of the bullet companies that the most important thing in a load was the bullet distance from the throat then the powder charge etc. It would seem to me that that is true but you need a powder charge first. You would refine from that point in my mind. Agree???

I don't know what is "right", but this is what works for me. I pick a powder charge more towards max than center. Then I start with square mark on the bullet from the lands. I start working the bullet back into the case until I find a repeatable point were I can shoot 2 shots in a hole. Then I try a third shot. If I now have repeatable very small 3 shot groups I repeat the process increasing powder .1 at a time. If it gets tighter I find the best spot that will repeat with 2 shot groups. If it gets bigger instead of tight I will test with decreasing powder. Once I find a sweet spot I shoot 3 shot groups looking for repeatable groups in the zeros and ones. I then shoot 300 yd groups looking for 3 shots cutting back to back groups. Now depending if I am prepping for 500 yd groundhog shoots or 1000 BR I go to 5 shot groups and see if I can improve them with the tuner.Usuall not at 500 but usually can improve vertical and or group shape at 1000. I do a lot with 2 shots including with the tuner until I find a sweet spot before wasting barrel on 5 shots. If 2 are not good, 5 will only be worse. If you use the same reamer barrel after barrel you will find most will shoot very close to a given load with minor tweeking.

 

[gtl1946]

JeffPPC..... thank you!!!!

 

[Hohn]

I was told by a tech for one of the bullet companies that the most important thing in a load was the bullet distance from the throat then the powder charge etc. It would seem to me that that is true but you need a powder charge first. You would refine from that point in my mind. Agree???

I think we're learning more and more that jump/jam matters more than charge.

I don't know what is "right", but this is what works for me. I pick a powder charge more towards max than center. Then I start with square mark on the bullet from the lands. I start working the bullet back into the case until I find a repeatable point were I can shoot 2 shots in a hole. Then I try a third shot. If I now have repeatable very small 3 shot groups I repeat the process increasing powder .1 at a time. If it gets tighter I find the best spot that will repeat with 2 shot groups. If it gets bigger instead of tight I will test with decreasing powder. Once I find a sweet spot I shoot 3 shot groups looking for repeatable groups in the zeros and ones. I then shoot 300 yd groups looking for 3 shots cutting back to back groups. Now depending if I am prepping for 500 yd groundhog shoots or 1000 BR I go to 5 shot groups and see if I can improve them with the tuner.Usuall not at 500 but usually can improve vertical and or group shape at 1000. I do a lot with 2 shots including with the tuner until I find a sweet spot before wasting barrel on 5 shots. If 2 are not good, 5 will only be worse. If you use the same reamer barrel after barrel you will find most will shoot very close to a given load with minor tweeking.

This is a really clever method, seems very economical and effective.

 

[gtl1946]

I think my point is that we have to start somewhere in the process and that will /would be where??

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I think my point is that we have to start somewhere in the process and that will /would be where??

Since jump/jam is more important than powder, pick a normal charge and find your seating depth, then try powder- pretty much what jeff said

 

[Webster]

I’ve been reloading for over 40+ years and it now appears ,because of this forum, that my process is not the best . After reading the forum about people having good luck with certain powders and primers for the case and bullet I’ve chosen I start at the middle of the starting and max load and set the bullet of choice touching the lands and working the loads up in small incremental amounts which is dependent on the size of the cartridge, .2 - .5 grn. jumps towards pressure signs. This is done with 3shot groups at 100 yds. as the greatest distance I can shoot is 500 yds. I don’t test OAL or primers until I have a load and refine from there. Are my groups one holers , no , but .2” -3” is common at the end. God help me with the PPC !

I read an article about Tony Boyer coaching an experieced BR shooter. Tony stood in front of the rifle and to the side. Based on how the shooter was holding the rifle Tony predicted the shot would be high, low, l or r. He was always correct. Most of my improvement comes from bench manners and wind reading. Almost all the guys a big match use N133 powder. Buy Tony Boyers book "The Accurate Shooter".

 

[jonbearman]

Tony's book is really good and he has won a few in his life , he he .

 

[Webster]

Tony's book is really good and he has won a few in his life , he he .

His wife is also in the HOF.

 

[searcher]

Almost all the guys a big match use N133 powder. Buy Tony Boyers book "The Accurate Shooter".

I liked Tony's book a lot and if you follow his advice on loading - you will not have your reloading skills holding you back. While N133 was used almost exclusively until several other powders arrived on the scene - it remains a great powder for velocity, but not always for top accuracy in a particular rifle. I'd try a few other powders as well, all shot up to near max velocity. You will see that your rifle will favor one. If one of them gives you .1" groups - even at 100 f.p.s. velocity, you will be ahead. As it was stated - you are getting .2" to .3" MOA grouping. Each shot fired is telling you unreliable information needed for the next shot. My top priority would be to reduce those groups. You have to trust that it was wind that moved your bullet, for example - and not just a random-generated pattern from your rifle.To have an odds-on chance of winning (or placing well) in short range matches, even at the local level, one needs a rifle that is capable of shooting as well as their competitors - and .2" to .3" won't do it. The sooner you can get your rifle shooting - the sooner you become a better marksman. I'd buy Tony's book if you don't have it. Good luck!

 

[searcher]

even at 100 f.p.s. velocity,

Should have read "100 FPS LESS velocity"

 

[Ccrider]

You can’t tell very much about your rifle until you learn how to make accurate ammo and to consistently shoot small. If you can not do both of these things, you can have a rifle capable of shooting 0s and 1s but you will never see it.

 

[JEFFPPC]

I forgot a very important item. FLAGS......If your not shooting all shots in a group on the same condition, nothing else matters.