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6 dasher neck turning

Mt.Boy

Silver $$ Contributor
Hello, I am haveing a dasher built. Should be here any time. My is a .266 chamber so I will need to turn necks which is pretty new to me. Was wondering how much of the necks I need to turn on my Br brass before I fireform. Thanks
 
Hello, I am haveing a dasher built. Should be here any time. My is a .266 chamber so I will need to turn necks which is pretty new to me. Was wondering how much of the necks I need to turn on my Br brass before I fireform. Thanks
My advice is to call Darrel Jones at DJ’s brass service. You will like his brass work and also his help on annealing. DJ is also a supporter of Accurate Shooter.
 
wow maybe some will answer the question that was asked.
since the shoulder is moved forward you do not have to turn to the current shoulder. I think I did .05 short, maybe others will chime in with a number.
 
Hello, I am haveing a dasher built. Should be here any time. My is a .266 chamber so I will need to turn necks which is pretty new to me. Was wondering how much of the necks I need to turn on my Br brass before I fireform. Thanks
There are ways to do it and get it right but if you are new to neck turning it could be some expensive schooling.
My first go around with Dasher I was talked into getting a .267 neck spec on the reamer. I had some previous experience turning necks (220 Russian for 6PPC) so I thought it'd be no sweat. WRONG!!!! I thought I figured out how far down the neck to go but wound up having serious donut issues right off because I didn't go far enough. Not a problem as long as the bullet heel sits above the donut but not cool in the least. Finally sold that gun and never used the reamer again. In around 2011 I revisited the whole deal of Dasher. To turn necks this time I developed a system using a 6.5 mandrel to expand and a Redding Competition Neck die to carefully form the false shoulder down to a very tight bolt close. That way I had a good mark to turn down too. By turning down onto the false shoulder all worked out well. Hard to explain fully in a post here but still a tedious process.
So, you see, expensive any way you go.
All that said, I would advise you to have DJ hydro form and neck turn your brass to match the chamber or, as stated above, change the spec to a no-turn neck for your chamber.
 
Depending on your reamer and overall length considerations taken on it.... .030 - .050 up from the BR shoulder will do well. If you aren't doing a proven false shoulder method as Shoot4Fun described, you should still hard jam, just incase your feel of where the false shoulder ends isn't good enough.
 
I have heard more than one top shooter state, "Turn 'em thin to win". I run .011 necks in my dashers, with no regrets.
CW
 
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Why will they be a pain

depending on your turning equipment you may not be able to cut that much off evenly in one pass. So you have to take some off then reset your cutter and take more off.
If you have a .268 neck you can turn em to .011 which is easier to get in one go. Or even just a no turn chamber at .271 or.272 and lightly skim the necks to cut down the high parts.
 
depending on your turning equipment you may not be able to cut that much off evenly in one pass. So you have to take some off then reset your cutter and take more off.
If you have a .268 neck you can turn em to .011 which is easier to get in one go. Or even just a no turn chamber at .271 or.272 and lightly skim the necks to cut down the high parts.
Thanks for the info
 
I have heard more than one top shooter state, "Turn 'em thin to win". I run .011 necks in my dashers, with no regrets.
CW
That just means plenty of clearance. Could be .011 or .0075 according to your chamber neck and be the same in the end.
As for the op turn em and stop right above the shoulder, expand to 25cal then size in your dasher die to a snug bolt closure and fire away. Youll love em
 

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