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First time reloading question, is my round too hot.

Take the following with a grain of salt: I don't load .45 ACP or use Longshot. (I do load 9mm and .38 Spcl though.)

IMHO you have to figure out why charges coming out of your measure can be as much as .5 gr over what you're trying to load. Just "knowing if that occurs it's under max" is insufficient. The manual should not be interpreted as a representation of what's allowed or what some "official" spec for the cartridge is. The data in the manual represents what the publisher tested and the results THEY got. Their max might actually be over max for you. Different guns. Different powder lots. Etc. can all impact and account for differences to what we end up with at the range vs what is in a manual. This is why "Start low and work up." is espoused so so frequently.

Were it me I would not feel confident in my loads unless the powder measure was throwing VERY consistently. And if I couldn't get that resolved, and I wanted to make ammo, I would resign myself to weighing every charge - even if the power measure was throwing good charges "90% of the time".

.5 gr random variation is HUGE IMHO. I'd chase that rabbit down. (And don't forget - maybe it's not the powder measure. Could it be an issue with the scale or an issue with how you're using the scale?)

CG
 
Just a couple thoughts.

The FTX bullets can be a bit of a problem to feed, so you might end up playing with length. Shorter barrels with steeper ramps seem to have more trouble. I would start with Hornady’s suggested length.

Powder and charge weight is another issue 7-7.5 grains, low mid range loads have always functioned better for me when using Loud Shot, and are generally more accurate.

It’s been a while since I used it, but it can be fun to shoot in low light and good hearing protection if shooting indoors is a plus. A 3” barrel puts on quite the show. The nick name of Loud Shot is well deserved.
 
The most accurate load I've found in my 1911 (45 ACP) is 6.5 grains of Unique with a 230 cast bullet. I tried a few other powders (Longshot, Blue Dot) and the Unique load put all bullets through the same hole at 10 yards, and is pop/beer can accurate out as far as 60 yards. I use Longshot (6.7 grains) for my "go-to" load in the .38 Special with a Remington 125 grain hollow point.
 
I agree with everybody here on the safety issue of loading for pistol and pulling the bullets you are not sure of.

Be aware, that tiny increments, especially at the top of pistol charges, is where huge differences occur. Therefore, I stay away from anywhere near max loads in ANY pistol. I shoot autoloaders mostly, especially .45 ACP in a 1911 and have found that function is far better than any energy gains you get from loading that cartridge hot. Longshot is intended for heavy for caliber bullets out of full length barrels. What you're doing will work but is not optimal. Other slightly faster powders will probably work better. Win 231 or AA #5, RE Sport Pistol (new to me) and CFE Pistol. I use a lot of AA#5 and CFE Pistol with 185's and 200's. I do like the nickname "Loud Shot".;)

Don't worry about trying to squeeze that last little bit of energy into a pistol cartridge. ANY functioning load puts out plenty of energy. Squeezing more out of it puts the pistol and the shooter at eventual risk. A hard load will take up the full measure of the return spring and start hitting slide on frame. One or the other will give sooner or later. Along with miscellaneous parts getting beat up in the process. It's better to unload a magazine and repeat 100 times if necessary than get a few shots into your target then have a busted unusable 1911.

That said, I suggest you get some different powder, look at the different powder speeds and consider a medium speed pistol powder instead of a slow pistol powder. And, work up to where your pistol functions consistently.
 
The most accurate load I've found in my 1911 (45 ACP) is 6.5 grains of Unique with a 230 cast bullet. I tried a few other powders (Longshot, Blue Dot) and the Unique load put all bullets through the same hole at 10 yards, and is pop/beer can accurate out as far as 60 yards. I use Longshot (6.7 grains) for my "go-to" load in the .38 Special with a Remington 125 grain hollow point.
I think Unique is like the original .45 ACP powder. There was a long time competitor on GunBroker Forums who loaded with Unique. We always gave him a hard time about loading a powder that was "flammable dirt" or, one step up from cave-dirt (animal grease mixed with nitrates).

But, he had a long history of winning a lot of competitions with a 1911. FWIW;)
 
BTW: COL for your load should be 1.230"

Where is the 1.230 coming from? Hornady? Better to let the barrel decide the length.

I don't think I've ever loaded anything shorter than 1.250, and that's anything from 200 to 255.

Just curious, not trying to be negative.
 
I didn't read the thread. Only read what you posted;

In my experience of handloading many rifle and pistol loads, it turns out that to start with, Hornady bullets most often turn out the highest pressures when compared to most other brands like Speer, Sierra, Nosler, etc. This has something to do with the bullet jackets being harder or thicker. I personally have enough experience that I would load up a couple of test cartridges that are 2 grains below max, 2 at max, and 2 that are 2 grains above max. I would fire them and examine the cases and primer for signs of high pressure. (A chronograph helps too with making determinations) If the signs aren't bad then I'd fire off the loads in question and just enjoy them at the range. Normally, 4 tenths over max would still be well within factory testing pressures, but again, I often find Hornady is already at higher pressures and the particular lot of powder you are using could vary too and produce higher pressures from lot- to- lot. I once used a new can of AA #7 powder that was producing scary pressures at below max, I would NOT have wanted to try that .4 over the load I was using.....never mind .4 over the book max! If you loaded up 25 rounds or so, then no sweat, but yea, I feel your pain if you loaded up 50 or more rounds individually. That's a lot of work to have to discard. If you choose to fire them, wear a leather glove and safety glasses for the first few rounds (we all should be wearing glasses anyway.)
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I don't claim to be an expert, but I do have some experience with what you're talking about.
Reloading room.jpg
 
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Where is the 1.230 coming from? Hornady? Better to let the barrel decide the length.

I don't think I've ever loaded anything shorter than 1.250, and that's anything from 200 to 255.

Just curious, not trying to be negative.
Maybe better to let magazine length decide? As long as the ogive doesn't get into the lands.
 
Not mine but good reason not to shoot for the moon on handgun loads.
Handguns don't handle over pressure loads near as well as our bolt rifles.
The shooter got a little bit of shrapnel but, thankfully, was wearing the proper safety glasses.
IMG_0074.jpg
 
9 gr of Longshot with the 200 XTP is probably just a hair over SAAMI max,
BUT... it's in the range of +P ammo, so if your 1911 is not a old relic you will have no issues with 9 gr of Longshot.

Just my opinion.

But I like to make sure the powder in the ammo is within 0.1 gr.

Edit: If your COAL was 1.150" then 9 gr of longshot would not be a good idea., however, your coal being 1.230" makes all the difference.
 
Did I read correctly that you are new handloader?

If so, I'd wonder why you're jumping in to the mid- to upper- range of loads from the get go? There's a reason every loading manual says to start low and work up - mainly because a load that's too low is much less dangerous than a load that is too hot.

The other thing I would suggest is to decide on a starting range from multiple sources, rather than one. For instance, the data Hodgdon recommends for your bullet weight is a starting load of 7 grains, and a max load of 7.8 grains. This is from the powder manufacturer. Your target starting data was beyond the powder manufacturer's max load.

You also need to figure out what's going on with your measure. A half- to full grain variance on an 8 grain load is huge. I don't load Long Shot, so I'm not familiar with kernel shape, but I can say that pretty much any pistol powder I run through either my Hornady or Lee Classic measures will drop within a tenth of a grain (and 90% of the time within half a tenth.) Rifle powder generally drops within 2 tenths. Something isn't right with your setup.

In all, my suggestion to you would be to slow down; don't try to rush the process. Learn as you go, and learn from making mistakes at the low end of the charge range (and everyone who loads has made mistakes.) Lessons from mistakes at the high end may end your hobby participation prematurely.
 
The brass can vary on capacity from different manufacturers. I’ve never used pistol brass from hornady, but my experience with their rifle brass is that it’s lighter and can tend to have more internal capacity. That might be why they show higher loads. I would follow the powder manufacturers load data.
 
Thank you everyone for all the input this is what I have done.

I pulled all the rounds

I disassembled the powder dispenser, cleaned it out and used Hornady's recommended dry lubricate so powder would run freely.

Chose a much lower powder recipe of 7.4 grain.

Ran a dozen or so test charges through the dispenser and tuned it in.

I am still getting fluctuation up to 7.9 but again, that's within spec for this load since i can go up to 8.6 grain max. But still a fluctuation of .5 grain confuses me. It doesn't happen often just once in a while. I loaded 100 rounds weighing every single one and it only got up to 7.9 about 10% of the time.

Lastly, I seated the bullets to 1.230 EXACTLY! LOL I really tuned it in slowly, on a side know what's the margin of error for COL ? Would 1.235 been OK ? or 1.225 is it better to go over or under ?

Any other feedback or information would be much appreciated, I'll be going to the range tomorrow to test these rounds out.

Thank you,
-Michael
I didn't read the post after this so someone could have mentioned this.... The powder thrower will throw more or less depending on how you use it... IE faster or slower , softer or harder , try and work the handle of the thrower them same motion everytime.... Same upstroke , downstroke and same speed.... This will result in more charges being more equal in weight... You need to get into a rhythm when using a powder thrower....
 
I didn't read all this however I didn't see the plunk test mentioned.
I shot max loads for a lil while then went to a target load 4.3 gr Clays [ if I remember correctly. ] Just as accurate and more fun.

be safe Don
 
Hello Everyone,

I started reloading and was working on some .45 ACP.

I am reloading Hornady 200gr XTP using Longshot powder 8.1-8.3 grain charge. COL is 1.25.

Some of my rounds I fear are loaded at 9.0 Grain and the max load in the Hornady manual for this powder and round is 8.6 Grain.

I will be shooting these out of a 1911. Is this too hot and should I just pull these rounds?

Thank you,
-Michael
Maybe consider a RCBS Chargemaster powder dispenser and on the dumper try to refine your consistency while operating the handle.
 
First Welcome aboard. And second, as many have said, more than likely too hot. Keep within the limits of your reloading books and reload safe and sane.
Do not push the 1911, it is a fine shooting firearm, but don't try to make a magnum out of it.
 
I don't recommend the Chargemaster powder dispenser for pistol powders because some of the pistol powders will start eroding the plastic when left inside the dispenser for extended periods.

I tried it with Titegroup and Universal. Universal was fine, while TiteGroup started eating the plastic when I left it in for a couple days.

Most powder throw dispensers will dispense many pistol powders very accurately. But not all powders.
I found TiteGroup and N-320 to meter 100% precisely in my Dillon XL-650 measure, and the Titegroup powder doesn't stain the Dillon dispenser.

I recommend filling the measure to the top (if possible) and tapping on the measure with a piece of plastic or wood for a minute to let the powder settle and compact.
 

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