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Checkering Refinishing Question(s)

hoz53

Gold $$ Contributor
80950302-7F39-4DE9-AD56-3900569A3AFE.jpeg 1F9E2BF8-9695-4124-ACD5-94FA70A6D7BA.jpeg I am refinishing a stock from a sporterized 98 mauser. Im guessing the sporterizing was done late 40s, early 50s on this gun. The checkering is the flat style. Ive never checkered so Im not sure how to handle it. should i just use some form of tool to clean out the grooves? Can I make the checkering pointier like a diamond instead of being flat? any advice would be appreciated. thanks. hoz
 
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There is no such thing as "flat style" checkering. That was just never cut to depth to begin with. It'll be interesting to what kind of responses you get here.
 
Looks like it was never finished. Get some checkering tools and point them up. Patience and carpel tunnel free hands will get it done.
 
You can order a single line tool from Brownell's with a handle. Do a search on checkering cradles and make you one out of a 2x4. Good light and a steady hand with light passes being careful to stay in the lines will give good results. After the diamonds are pointed up you can thin some Tru-Oil and brush inside the checkering. You'll have to take special care when plowing near the borders or you'll get overruns.

If you've never done it there are plenty of people that checker and I'm sure it wouldn't cost too much to have it redone.
 
View attachment 1164133 View attachment 1164134 I am refinishing a stock from a sporterized 98 mauser. Im guessing the sporterizing was done late 40s, early 50s on this gun. The checkering is the flat style. Ive never checkered so Im not sure how to handle it. should i just use some form of tool to clean out the grooves? Can I make the checkering pointier like a diamond instead of being flat? any advice would be appreciated. thanks. hoz


Do not ruin the flat top checkering! It is about a $1500 job at this time and only a couple in the USA does it. I know it is hard for most to understand, but it is more difficult to do and you cant hide your mistakes.
 
You can order a single line tool from Brownell's with a handle. Do a search on checkering cradles and make you one out of a 2x4. Good light and a steady hand with light passes being careful to stay in the lines will give good results. After the diamonds are pointed up you can thin some Tru-Oil and brush inside the checkering. You'll have to take special care when plowing near the borders or you'll get overruns.

If you've never done it there are plenty of people that checker and I'm sure it wouldn't cost too much to have it redone.
thanks jdh for all the good info.
 
This doesn't look like a "high grade" of flat top checkering but it can be touched up if you're careful. There are two types of single line checkering cutters, 60 degree and 90 degree cutters. I've done both types of checkering and I found that the 60 degree cutters are easier to do flat top checkering with because they don't reach the peaks quite as fast as the 90 degree cutters thereby allowing a little more latitude when trying to match the tops. You can only clean this checkering up with the single line cutter.
 
This doesn't look like a "high grade" of flat top checkering but it can be touched up if you're careful. There are two types of single line checkering cutters, 60 degree and 90 degree cutters. I've done both types of checkering and I found that the 60 degree cutters are easier to do flat top checkering with because they don't reach the peaks quite as fast as the 90 degree cutters thereby allowing a little more latitude when trying to match the tops. You can only clean this checkering up with the single line cutter.
Thanks for that info clowdis
 

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