Neck Turning

[P1ZombieKiller]

Is it best to neck turn new brass or once fired? Barlow

IMO, New brass is the only way to go... you most certainly can turn once fired brass.

I will even take it 1 step in a slightly different direction. Any time I start a new barrel (whether it's NEW barrel/gun or new to me barrel/gun) I start with BRAND NEW brass, and turn it for that chamber. I plan my number of turned cases based on life expectancy for that caliber. I run 200ish pcs of 30br brass in my rotation, but would only run 125ish in my 1:8 6br. While the 125ish cases would usually outlast the barrel, when I retire that barrel, I retire those cases.

When I rebarrel that 6br (even if the same reamer/chamber/gunsmith) I start off again with NEW brass.

Not saying this is right..... just what I do.

 

[Brians356]

I use a set of "automotive type" feeler gauges to set my cutter depth, then turn a shell, check it and adjust from there. The PMA tool has a nice micro adjuster. Does anybody else use feeler gauges?

You mean like this:
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[joshb]

Exactly like that. I used the method when I first started. It seemed logical. I've used it since.

 

[Barlow]

I know I'm old and forget full, because I remembered I had a neck turning attachment for my Forster case length trimmer. I dug it up today and refreshed myself on its operation. My other neck turner is a Forster hand held or vise held turner. I'm sure not an expert neck turner, but the one on my case trimmer is 10 times easier to use. But the fact remains, I still don't like doing it. Thanks for all the great posts and info. Barlow

 

[Shynloco]

Am I the I my person the planet that enjoys it?

No you are not. I used to HATE turning brass until I bought a 21st Century Neck Turning Lathe. SO I've concluded much of the like or dislike in turning brass lies in the tools you have to use to accomplish the task. The best part of the 21st Century Neck Lathe is that it cuts accurately casing after casing. I also measure each casing both in thickness and concentricity to insure repeatable accuracy in the process.

Alex

 

[thethirdpig]

Yes.

i I enjoy it
But then i enjoy all aspects of reloading. Its like playing with my guns but I get to do it at home inside.

 

[Raythemanroe]

I have tried a couple turning tools and PMA Tool was a pleasure..


Ray

 

[Pwdrjnkie]

I have a k&m coming in the brown truck tomorrow, so I can run my first tests on the results of neck turned cases. Im actually looking forward to it. That feeler gauge trick looks slick. Joining this forum was a good decision.

 

[Richard Coody]

I have tried a couple turning tools and PMA Tool was a pleasure..


Ray

+1 for PMA

 

[Mozella]

I like it because of the results (from 1" to one hole) on some of my rifles. K&M makes a good turner kit. I turned 20 last night in less than 2 hours.

What? Last week I did three boxes (300 rounds) of new Lapua .223 brass on my 21st Century lathe. I was curious about how long it took, so I timed myself. I was doing three cases per minute; i.e just over an hour and a half for all 300. Including set up and clean up time, it was less than two hours for 300 cases.

 

[LA50SHOOTER]

What? Last week I did three boxes (300 rounds) of new Lapua .223 brass on my 21st Century lathe. I was curious about how long it took, so I timed myself. I was doing three cases per minute; i.e just over an hour and a half for all 300. Including set up and clean up time, it was less than two hours for 300 cases.

I as well have been neck turning a lot of brass and have been looking for ways to increase productivity but still maintain tolerances on it.
I turned 1600 rounds of 300 WSM Norma brass & it seemed like it took forever to get it done. - I use a Sinclair "Ultimate" neck turner with the carbide mandrels. - The thing that I think that helped me was when I got the Dewalt DCF682N1 8V Max Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/4 in. Gyroscopic Inline Screwdriver Kit & a spare battery. - Previously I was using a couple of Black & Decker drivers & they ran out of "juice" after 15-18 pieces of brass. Also the speed on the B & D was slower. The Dewalt provides pretty precise speed control and greater torque so the turning speed seemed to stay maintained at a more consistent rate. - When I neck-turn I try to maintain the minimum feed rate while turning & cutting as it seems to produce the most uniform neck thickness. I check my turned brass using a .0001 tube micrometer that has the ball. (Mine is made by Holland's & is held in a micrometer vise). - I'm able to turn at around 40 pieces of brass per hour & maintain good tolerance on the neck thickness. - I use sparingly a little bit of neck turning lube on the mandrel in addition to what is already in the neck from being expanded with the expander mandrel.

 

[Grimstod]

It isn't exactly enjoyable but it is worth mentioning that using a Nielson / Pumpkin turner makes the process better. It is the cadillac of neck turners.

JP

Totally TRUE , the Pumpkin is the bomb of all neck turners!

 

[joshb]

What? Last week I did three boxes (300 rounds) of new Lapua .223 brass on my 21st Century lathe. I was curious about how long it took, so I timed myself. I was doing three cases per minute; i.e just over an hour and a half for all 300. Including set up and clean up time, it was less than two hours for 300 cases.

Bet you didn't coddle and pet each one and whisper positive thoughts into thier primer pockets.

 

[T-shooter]

I have a k&m coming in the brown truck tomorrow, so I can run my first tests on the results of neck turned cases. Im actually looking forward to it. That feeler gauge trick looks slick. Joining this forum was a good decision.

Hope you also got the expander with the turner. That will leave the necks the correct diameter to fit the pilot. The brass needs to be of a uniform length to trim all of them if necessary. The length of the cut indexes off the end of the neck. Then you'll need to set the pilot to control the length of the cut. Just lightly touch the shoulder area. Keep the pilot and/or necks lubed on the inside. If using a drill, use a slow speed and feed the case into the cutter slowly and evenly until it bottoms out on the step of the pilot. I usually take 5-6 seconds to make the cut on .308 brass, then withdraw the case slowly letting it finish smoothing on the way out. Brush the chips off the cutter after each cut. If you've never turned you may want to experiment with some old brass beforehand.

The cutter tool doesn't retract with the adjustment screw. You unlock the set screw, back out the adjustment screw on the end, slide the cutter back, and then snug the set screw and turn the adjustment screw it in for your setting. The feeler's gauge is a good way to set it. Then lock the set screw. On .308 brass (the only ones I turn) .014" thickness will cut all the way abound on some cases. Others I've had to go to .012". Winchester brass has thin necks (the few that I have) and may need even more. If you are removing metal 3/4 the way around, that's probably good enough without unnecessarily turning the necks too thin. At least they will be much closer between the low and high side.

 

[Mozella]

Bet you didn't coddle and pet each one and whisper positive thoughts into thier primer pockets.

Yes I did, but since I don't like to handle individual components any more than necessary, I give my brass "batch love". I rub and pet my cases while they are in a big pan and whisper to them as a group.

There is one time that they get individual attention. When I anneal using my Skip Design annealer, I give the sign of the cross as each one drops into the annealing pan. Don't worry, it's not the normal Catholic sign of the cross. Rather it's the anti-Dracula cross made with crossed index fingers. It helps with my SD.

 

[X-Caveman]

Here is a good alternative. http://www.p1zk.com/30br.html

Just worked a deal with Wes for some 6BR brass turned to .011". It measures as good or better than what I'm able to do myself. Plus he's better at cleaning out the lube than I am.

I highly recommend him.

 

[joshb]

I think mine like Bach. The last time I turned, I had some Bach concertos playing. That brass (6ppc) shot very well!

 

[Vmax97]

You mean like this:
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View attachment 1019407
View attachment 1019408
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Can you tell me more about how you have adapted the micrometer?

 

[Brians356]

Can you tell me more about how you have adapted the micrometer?

It's a ball type mic. Added depth stop: I took a section of dowel, drilled a hole in the center just slightly smaller than the narrow anvil shaft diameter, used a razor blade and mallet to split the dowel in half through the hole. Reassembled the dowel halves around the shaft to test fit, took it off and enlarged the hole slightly with a round file. Once it fit nicely on the shaft, I carved the "bite" to clear the conical end of the measurement shaft. Finally I glued the two halves together around the shaft using Tightbond.

The dowel slides up and down a bit on the shaft under the ball end. To adjust the height (control how far the ball enters the neck, with case mouth standing on the dowel) I made a couple of shims out of those plastic tabs that close bread bags. Not shown, I can slip a shim or two under the dowel to raise it, to lower the ball closer to the case mouth.

Note: Factory cases have tapered neck walls - thinner toward the case mouth. So with this depth stop, you are measuring wall at the same distance from the mouth all around the circumference.

Shown are two shims, the pink one in use under the dowel.


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[jackson1]

Count me in as enjoying neck turning. I have turned all my bottle neck cases. One less thing to consider in my accuracy quest. I may have missed it in my skimming of this thread. My process includes using the head of my brass holder chucked in a cordless drill. A word of caution, heat build up on the mandrel is an enemy of precision results. Keep your tool cool. As a retired guy, I while away countless cold winter days in my reloading room.