A little over a year ago my oldest son(Dylan...now 16) & I began shooting NRA Mid-Range Prone Tactical AR. In less than a year Dylan made High Master, I won the 2019 TSRA Mid-Range State Championship and most recently, my youngest son(Logan @ 8 years old) scored a 197-12x on match #2 of his first mid-range tournament(at 600 yards).
A couple folks have shown interest in the rifles & scopes we are using.
Dylan's rifle is mostly a combination of stuff we had laying around.
Upper/Lower Receivers Fitment: The Select Firepower Billet Lower is mated to a Noreen Billet Upper with no shimming required. I prefer the upper & lower to fit with minimal slop between them. When fitting receivers.....if the fit is not tight I recommend using a National Match Shim Kit(http://nationalmatchshim.com/nationalmatchshim.htm). This shim kit takes a few minutes to fit, but it is metal to metal and works better than the accu-wedges(IMHO). Note: In a pinch I still recommend the accu-wedges and carry them in my range bag in case I have to swap lowers or to assist other folks.
Fitting Barrel to Upper Receiver: I use an electric heat gun and shims cut from repurposed aluminum cola/beer cans to "Thermal-Fit" the barrel to the upper receiver. This has to be done carefully. You could split the upper receiver, gall the threads on the receiver or even damage the barrel crown. I cut several small strips of the aluminum can to various lengths. Usually, the strip(only use one) that works will wrap around the barrel extension between a Quarter & One-Third the OD of the extension. I clean the receiver & barrel extension, then with the upper receiver in an aluminum vice block I heat the upper receiver(using a Harbor Freight Electric Heat Gun). The Heated Aluminum Receiver will grow allowing the room temperature barrel extension and shim to be quickly inserted into the receiver. DO NOT Beat on the Barrel Crown! If the barrel becomes stuck, apply additional heat removing the barrel and start again. The Aluminum Receiver will grow at a faster rate than the Steel Barrel allowing you to remove it. Let the barrel cool down again, trim the shim, reheat the upper and try again.....be patient(this is worth all the effort). Also, be cautious not to allow part of the shim to slip forward while installing the barrel...it will get pinched in between the face of the receiver and the flange on the barrel extension, resulting in the Barrel Extension and Receiver not mating up properly. Also, the room temperature barrel/barrel extension will transfer/suck the heat right out of the Aluminum Upper Receiver. DO NOT Install the barrel nut until everything has cooled back down to ambient temperatures. Also, Lubricate the threads before installing the barrel nut. I usually torque the barrel nut to 75-80 ft lbs. I personally feel this really helps to accurize any AR15 Rifle. I Thermal Fit all my AR Barrels(including factory assembled rifles). Its easy to check on a factory rifle. Just loosen the barrel nut and check to see if the barrel will just slide-out of the receiver. You can also feel the slop between the Barrel Extension & Upper Receiver with the Barrel Nut Removed. Note: Bravo Company Manufacturing(BCM) makes a Forged Upper Receiver(PN# BCM4-UR-M4) that is Undersized. It will still need to be heated to install a Barrel, but no shims should be required. AGAIN DO NOT BEAT ON BARREL CROWN TO INSTALL!
Trigger Springs: Rock River Two-Stage Varmint(Blue Card) w/Springs Replaced. I used JP & KAW Springs of various weights until I obtained the 4.5# Trigger Pull desired. Due to the RR Light Weight/Bobbed Hammer, When I got the pull I really liked...the Federal 205M Primers would only light-off about half of the time. I had to really work with the Hammer Springs for it to function correctly...it ended up slightly greater than 4.5# trigger pull weight. Good luck if you decide to go this route, it was very time consuming and required testing at the range for best results and reliability. The RR National Match(Yellow Card) Trigger would have also been fine....but we already had the Varmint Trigger. If you have the extra coin...I would just spring for the Geissele National Match.
Stock: A2 with Homemade Kydex Adjustable Cheek Riser. I have also made an adjustable bag rider that attaches to the A2 stock using the same attaching bolts as the cheek riser. The Storage Compartment is Filled with BB's(or Lead Shot) to make the 14 lbs. Max. Weight. I fabricate an aluminum cover and use it under the Butt Plate to keep the BB's from falling out if the trap door is accidently opened(It's OK to use some of the left over soda/beer can from shimming the barrel). It's very important to be right at Max. Weight. You are mitigating the negative impact of the mandatory 4.5# minimum trigger weight by maximizing the total rifle weight.
Rail Length & Bipod Mounting: I prefer the Bipod to be mounted as far down the barrel as possible. It makes the Muzzle less sensitive to movements at the Rear Bag. This gives the shooter better control when adjusting the bag. We used a 15" Rail on a 16" Barrel.....I'd recommend a 19" Rail on a 20" Barrel with a rail mounted bipod mounted all the way on the end. Kinda looks goofy but this ain't no fashion show.
The 16" Barrel: I'm a sucker for a bargain and when JSE Surplus had it on sale for $94 shipped a couple years ago.....well this is one of the parts we had "laying-around". This barrel is very rigid and being short it should be even more so. The Shot Marker Electronic Targets at Bayou Rifles show a 66 fps lower velocity at the 600 yard targets than my 18" Barrel with the same 77 grain SMK load. Early on Dylan didn't realize it but he was having to work slightly harder on his wind calls(compared to a 20" Barrel). He had bigger fish to fry than a couple extra inch's wind call at 600 yards when he first started. Now he's pretty darn good calling the wind with a carbine.
Scope: The SWFA 10x is really about the minimum scope I would recommend. The magnification is adequate to Hold-Off for wind calls at 600 yards. They are reasonablly priced(IMHO). Over the holidays they were on sale for $199. A variable power optic(up to 15x) would be better as long as the tracking is good. Dylan did get into a situation where the conditions were changing rapidly and the mirage was so great he could barely see the target at 600 yards. If he would have had a variable power optic he could have dialed it down to mitigate the mirage. This really poor condition only lasted about 5 minutes. It occurred mid way though the last match of the day. Dylan shot through it dropping 19 points shooting 181-4x(His first two match's of the day=198-8x & 198-5x). He finished the last match with 6 minutes to spare. Dylan regretted not being patient and waiting for a few minutes....he had the time remaining and conditions did get better....oh well....live & learn.
I hope this helps....
If anyone is interested I can give more details on the Rifle Logan is shooting and the ammo/loads we are using.
Dylan, Logan & Andy Legg
A couple folks have shown interest in the rifles & scopes we are using.
Dylan's rifle is mostly a combination of stuff we had laying around.
- Lower Receiver: Select Firepower(Baytown, Texas) 6061 Billet Lower Receiver.
- Upper Receiver: Noreen Firearms 6061 Billet Slick Side Upper Receiver. No Dust Cover Installed.
- Barrel: A 16" Wilson Arms 4140 Chromoly 1/8 twist 5.56mm Carbine Length Air-Gauged Bull Barrel with a Phosphate finish.
- Bolt & BCG: Palmetto State Armory MPI(PN#516446953). Nothing special here.
- Trigger: Rock River Two-Stage Varmint(Blue Card) w/Springs Replaced(4.5# Trigger Pull).
- Handguard/Rail: Radical Firearms 15" FGS Rail.
- Stock: A2 Rifle with a Anderson Receiver Extension, Buffer & Spring.
- Scope & Mount: SWFA 10x Mil-Quad w/SWFA "S.S.A.L.T" Mount.
- Charging Handle: Roush Sports Extended Latch(https://rouschsports.com/shop/ar15-...xtended-charging-handle-mil-spec-223-5-56-22/).
- Bipod: Leapers UTG Heavy Duty Recon 360(PN# TL-BP01).
Upper/Lower Receivers Fitment: The Select Firepower Billet Lower is mated to a Noreen Billet Upper with no shimming required. I prefer the upper & lower to fit with minimal slop between them. When fitting receivers.....if the fit is not tight I recommend using a National Match Shim Kit(http://nationalmatchshim.com/nationalmatchshim.htm). This shim kit takes a few minutes to fit, but it is metal to metal and works better than the accu-wedges(IMHO). Note: In a pinch I still recommend the accu-wedges and carry them in my range bag in case I have to swap lowers or to assist other folks.
Fitting Barrel to Upper Receiver: I use an electric heat gun and shims cut from repurposed aluminum cola/beer cans to "Thermal-Fit" the barrel to the upper receiver. This has to be done carefully. You could split the upper receiver, gall the threads on the receiver or even damage the barrel crown. I cut several small strips of the aluminum can to various lengths. Usually, the strip(only use one) that works will wrap around the barrel extension between a Quarter & One-Third the OD of the extension. I clean the receiver & barrel extension, then with the upper receiver in an aluminum vice block I heat the upper receiver(using a Harbor Freight Electric Heat Gun). The Heated Aluminum Receiver will grow allowing the room temperature barrel extension and shim to be quickly inserted into the receiver. DO NOT Beat on the Barrel Crown! If the barrel becomes stuck, apply additional heat removing the barrel and start again. The Aluminum Receiver will grow at a faster rate than the Steel Barrel allowing you to remove it. Let the barrel cool down again, trim the shim, reheat the upper and try again.....be patient(this is worth all the effort). Also, be cautious not to allow part of the shim to slip forward while installing the barrel...it will get pinched in between the face of the receiver and the flange on the barrel extension, resulting in the Barrel Extension and Receiver not mating up properly. Also, the room temperature barrel/barrel extension will transfer/suck the heat right out of the Aluminum Upper Receiver. DO NOT Install the barrel nut until everything has cooled back down to ambient temperatures. Also, Lubricate the threads before installing the barrel nut. I usually torque the barrel nut to 75-80 ft lbs. I personally feel this really helps to accurize any AR15 Rifle. I Thermal Fit all my AR Barrels(including factory assembled rifles). Its easy to check on a factory rifle. Just loosen the barrel nut and check to see if the barrel will just slide-out of the receiver. You can also feel the slop between the Barrel Extension & Upper Receiver with the Barrel Nut Removed. Note: Bravo Company Manufacturing(BCM) makes a Forged Upper Receiver(PN# BCM4-UR-M4) that is Undersized. It will still need to be heated to install a Barrel, but no shims should be required. AGAIN DO NOT BEAT ON BARREL CROWN TO INSTALL!
Trigger Springs: Rock River Two-Stage Varmint(Blue Card) w/Springs Replaced. I used JP & KAW Springs of various weights until I obtained the 4.5# Trigger Pull desired. Due to the RR Light Weight/Bobbed Hammer, When I got the pull I really liked...the Federal 205M Primers would only light-off about half of the time. I had to really work with the Hammer Springs for it to function correctly...it ended up slightly greater than 4.5# trigger pull weight. Good luck if you decide to go this route, it was very time consuming and required testing at the range for best results and reliability. The RR National Match(Yellow Card) Trigger would have also been fine....but we already had the Varmint Trigger. If you have the extra coin...I would just spring for the Geissele National Match.
Stock: A2 with Homemade Kydex Adjustable Cheek Riser. I have also made an adjustable bag rider that attaches to the A2 stock using the same attaching bolts as the cheek riser. The Storage Compartment is Filled with BB's(or Lead Shot) to make the 14 lbs. Max. Weight. I fabricate an aluminum cover and use it under the Butt Plate to keep the BB's from falling out if the trap door is accidently opened(It's OK to use some of the left over soda/beer can from shimming the barrel). It's very important to be right at Max. Weight. You are mitigating the negative impact of the mandatory 4.5# minimum trigger weight by maximizing the total rifle weight.
Rail Length & Bipod Mounting: I prefer the Bipod to be mounted as far down the barrel as possible. It makes the Muzzle less sensitive to movements at the Rear Bag. This gives the shooter better control when adjusting the bag. We used a 15" Rail on a 16" Barrel.....I'd recommend a 19" Rail on a 20" Barrel with a rail mounted bipod mounted all the way on the end. Kinda looks goofy but this ain't no fashion show.
The 16" Barrel: I'm a sucker for a bargain and when JSE Surplus had it on sale for $94 shipped a couple years ago.....well this is one of the parts we had "laying-around". This barrel is very rigid and being short it should be even more so. The Shot Marker Electronic Targets at Bayou Rifles show a 66 fps lower velocity at the 600 yard targets than my 18" Barrel with the same 77 grain SMK load. Early on Dylan didn't realize it but he was having to work slightly harder on his wind calls(compared to a 20" Barrel). He had bigger fish to fry than a couple extra inch's wind call at 600 yards when he first started. Now he's pretty darn good calling the wind with a carbine.
Scope: The SWFA 10x is really about the minimum scope I would recommend. The magnification is adequate to Hold-Off for wind calls at 600 yards. They are reasonablly priced(IMHO). Over the holidays they were on sale for $199. A variable power optic(up to 15x) would be better as long as the tracking is good. Dylan did get into a situation where the conditions were changing rapidly and the mirage was so great he could barely see the target at 600 yards. If he would have had a variable power optic he could have dialed it down to mitigate the mirage. This really poor condition only lasted about 5 minutes. It occurred mid way though the last match of the day. Dylan shot through it dropping 19 points shooting 181-4x(His first two match's of the day=198-8x & 198-5x). He finished the last match with 6 minutes to spare. Dylan regretted not being patient and waiting for a few minutes....he had the time remaining and conditions did get better....oh well....live & learn.
I hope this helps....
If anyone is interested I can give more details on the Rifle Logan is shooting and the ammo/loads we are using.
Dylan, Logan & Andy Legg
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