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Reloading question/help

Have two questions I need advise on if you weight sort cases I'm assuming they must be trimmed to same length first ? Question two I have brand new lapua 260 cases that internal necks are too tight and need to be neck turned should I trim first then expand not thinking it makes any difference?
 
welll
primer pockets are out side of internal volume, but affect weight;
neck turning is outside of volume, but affects weight;
trim to length is really outside of volume, but affects weight
(well because real volume is based on a seated bullet and it does not care how long the neck is....yeah its an iffy statement);
deburr inside flash hole does affect volume and weight.
up to you how you approach sorting.
 
Have two questions I need advise on if you weight sort cases I'm assuming they must be trimmed to same length first ? Question two I have brand new lapua 260 cases that internal necks are too tight and need to be neck turned should I trim first then expand not thinking it makes any difference?
You statement "internal necks are too tight and need to be neck turned" sounds like you are not clear on some basics. I may be wrong so explain you meaning.
 
Have two questions I need advise on if you weight sort cases I'm assuming they must be trimmed to same length first ? Question two I have brand new lapua 260 cases that internal necks are too tight and need to be neck turned should I trim first then expand not thinking it makes any difference?

Yes and Yes

Do all your case prep before weighing, then you can prime and charge the cases.
 
You statement "internal necks are too tight and need to be neck turned" sounds like you are not clear on some basics. I may be wrong so explain you meaning.
Sure the brand new lapua internal neck diameter is too small and needs expanding and the outside diameter has inconsistent dimensions
 
welll
primer pockets are out side of internal volume, but affect weight;
neck turning is outside of volume, but affects weight;
trim to length is really outside of volume, but affects weight
(well because real volume is based on a seated bullet and it does not care how long the neck is....yeah its an iffy statement);
deburr inside flash hole does affect volume and weight.
up to you how you approach sorting.
How important is weight sorting cases iyo
 
What makes you think the inside diameter is too small? Have you tried seating one? Have you measured both outside and inside diameter. Have you measured neck thickness with a ball micrometer? Have you ran one through you sizing die?

New cases will be a bit tight. They should be fireformed, resized and then measure the length. They will stretch a bit, which will thin the necks a bit also. If you have a standard chamber, you should not have to turn the necks down unless they is a big difference in outside diameter after firing. I am assuming this is a hunting rifle and not being used in benchrest competition.
 
What makes you think the inside diameter is too small? Have you tried seating one? Have you measured both outside and inside diameter. Have you measured neck thickness with a ball micrometer? Have you ran one through you sizing die?

New cases will be a bit tight. They should be fireformed, resized and then measure the length. They will stretch a bit, which will thin the necks a bit also. If you have a standard chamber, you should not have to turn the necks down unless they is a big difference in outside diameter after firing. I am assuming this is a hunting rifle and not being used in benchrest competition.
Will be in the shop tomorrow and give measurements can't remember off top of my head. It's not a rifle it's a freedom arms break open pistol in 260 Remington
 
hunting, target shooting or precision target shooting?
I have one set of cases that have been measured to have the same INTERNAL volume.
I typically sort to plus or minus .1gr for a lot of 50 pcs.
i am a firm believer in small details
but not a hunter
How important is weight sorting cases iyo
 
This is the firearm he is talking about
To the OP, + 1 to what Nick C said, seat a bullet in one of your new cases,mark the case neck down past the shoulder with a Majic marker, and see if there is any resistance in clambering the round and closing the action, IF there is the area where the trouble is will show up on the case.
What is your intended use for this pistol ??
 
Will be using for long range target and occasional hunting. I'm working today so cant give numbers till I get home from work but I checked case neck wall thickness and outside dimensions did the math and discovered the internal neck diameter is too tight I want about .002 thou bullet retention so I need to expand then neck size with the redding competition neck sizer. From everything I'm reading about lapua it's pretty common to be internally tight in the necks on new cases so I think I'm on the right track will get back later with numbers oh I also found some irregularities in the outer neck dimensions as well leading me to believe they must be turned for proper neck tension.
 
What brand of brass do you use to get that level of consistency?

How many pieces would one need to purchase to get 50 that were within .1 gn?

What are you truing to attain? The same internal volume? When processing brass, everything changes with each firing. It stretches, you shrink it and it stretches again. You then need to trim it. three or four firings and it will need to be annealed which will again affect the internal volume.

I think .1 gr is an unreasonable standard to set on brass. I have attended many benchrest matches and have watched the folks there, reload between shooting sessions. The winners are not as meticulous as one would expect, especially when you witness those tiny one hole groups they produce.

While they use powder drops, they do not seem too concerned, with exacting powder weights. I decided I would try their method and bought a nice expensive powder drop and could not get the degree of accuracy I would expect for benchrest shooting. I have always weighed my powder with a good electronic scale and then double check with a trued 10-10 beam scale that would show me the difference of one kernel of powder. What I found was that dropping powder in that manner did not hinder my scores. .03 tenths of a gr of powder at 100 or 200 yards is close enough. As for me, I have that nice expensive powder drop and it sits there on the bench unused. Might as well be a paper weight.

Case volume may be important at 1,000 yards, but not at the range you will be shooting that pistol. More importantly, is bullet weight.

The above are my opinions and my experiences. it's what works for me.
 
What are you truing to attain? The same internal volume? When processing brass, everything changes with each firing. It stretches, you shrink it and it stretches again. You then need to trim it. three or four firings and it will need to be annealed which will again affect the internal volume.

I think .1 gr is an unreasonable standard to set on brass. I have attended many benchrest matches and have watched the folks there, reload between shooting sessions. The winners are not as meticulous as one would expect, especially when you witness those tiny one hole groups they produce.

While they use powder drops, they do not seem too concerned, with exacting powder weights. I decided I would try their method and bought a nice expensive powder drop and could not get the degree of accuracy I would expect for benchrest shooting. I have always weighed my powder with a good electronic scale and then double check with a trued 10-10 beam scale that would show me the difference of one kernel of powder. What I found was that dropping powder in that manner did not hinder my scores. .03 tenths of a gr of powder at 100 or 200 yards is close enough. As for me, I have that nice expensive powder drop and it sits there on the bench unused. Might as well be a paper weight.

Case volume may be important at 1,000 yards, but not at the range you will be shooting that pistol. More importantly, is bullet weight.

The above are my opinions and my experiences. it's what works for me.
I think were getting off track on my original question I appreciate everyone chiming in but I just was asking about sequence of steps. Fyi I will be shooting out to 1000 yards with this gun that's why I bought it.
 
I got it. Sorry for the long dissertation. Wish you luck.
No need to be sorry I really do appreciate the help it's just sometimes these threads can get way off track. I was reading a very good article on long range handgun techniques and he was talking about sort weighing cases but he didnt mention that he checked case length first that's why I asked about checking case length before weighing I have never got this in depth on rifle case reloading but have many years reloading pistol like 454 casull,45 lc,41 mag and many more so I watched a video from Joe regan and was very impressed with his knowledge so that's why I joined this chat site. I have also watched many videos and done quite a bit of reading and have spoke to a connection at freedom arms about reloading for this gun in particular.
 
What brand of brass do you use to get that level of consistency?

How many pieces would one need to purchase to get 50 that were within .1 gn?
I'm using peterson and just bought some lapua I've read that for every 100 you might get 70 or 80 within .002 grains I'm not even sure it will make a huge difference until I try it especially in a handgun I know sorting bullets is good but not sure on the weighing of brass because can you really tell of internal volume by weighing ? I'm not convinced of that until you can be 100 percent sure of case thickness throughout the entire cartridge?
 

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