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Getting started in Neck Turning

I know several people/companies that use LATHES to turn brass, and it works well.

I think this can work well as long as with the case in mounted in a chuck that will align the neck and case axis to the cutter.

a drill press and a vice are not a good substitute.

I agree, as it's really tough to get the axis alignment right.

the frill press is ok, just hand feed the cutter.
put the drill press on its side

Yeah, that seems like it could work just fine. The mandrel can then automatically align with the case neck's axis.
 
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common drill presses DO NOT AHVE THE RUN OUT required for precision.
specifically in this case where a vice is used.
lots of guys turn on a cheap drill press put sideways,
but hand held case or cutter.
“Rsmithsr50”
I tried to lay my drillpress over sideways but I am going to stick with vertical as I would have to get half the neighborhood over here to help. Plus the oil in the head may not like it. LoL.
 
OP, sorry for the distractions but I recommend the PMA held by hand with the case in a handheld cordless drill. Or possible one of the lathes that allows for the “wobble” of brass when turning. This allows the neck to stay true with the mandrel. In my experience very few cases much less the case holders are truely straight to the .0001” which is what some turn necks to.
 
Whatever, 50. I know other top tier long range shooters that use the same method to good effect. You don't need to take a 2nd on your house to make world class competitve ammunition.
My shoulders are fine.
 
you in your attempt at humor missed a couple of key words.
common drill presses DO NOT HAVE THE RUN OUT required for precision"
AND
"a cheap drill press put sideways"
me thinks your press is neither of the above

nice drill press

“Rsmithsr50”
I tried to lay my drillpress over sideways but I am going to stick with vertical as I would have to get half the neighborhood over here to help. Plus the oil in the head may not like it. LoL.
 
Seems like a lot of hootin and hollerin over neck turning. I just use my KM kit and my Milwaukee cordless drill. Turns those rascals down and does a good job. I normally will take the batch down to let’s say .0139 then take the final .0004” off. Does a good job, clean finish.
 
Wait till those batteries gas off and wonder where the rust came from.

Buddies son shoved his boat batteries under his bench. Torch was in use and slag melted a hole in the case. No sulfur smell but tooling would have fine rust on it. Ate the paint off of the shop wall too.
 
I've had the Sinclair neck turning kit for a long time now that I use for my .308 cases. And I find it works just great. Though the Century 21 tool and the K&M are fine tools as well. Any of these three should work well for you. Except for the Century 21 tool, you'll need a chuck to hold the case if going to use something like a cordless power drill to power the turning. In addition you'll want to get a good ball or tube micrometer that measures to the .0001 and a stand to mount it on. Oh, and if you're not already doing it, you'll need a trimmer to trim the cases before turning the necks.
You really mean 0.0001 or do you mean 0.001?
 
Never used a drill press for turning necks but I have done a lot of setups in vertical and horizontal mills. If you think the axis of the ram and the table are out of perpendicularity a piece of bent drill rod long enough to reach a large diameter placed in the chuck with an indicator will tell you how much the the ram is off from the table. Some tables have rotating mounts and some judicious peening, sanding or lapping could bring in the other axis in if it was out of your spec. The set up in the drill is easy verifiable for RO also. The pilot also works in your favor. If you just have to do it that way you can get good results. A runout stand with a .0005 test indicator can tell you what you need to know.
 
Never used a drill press for turning necks but I have done a lot of setups in vertical and horizontal mills. If you think the axis of the ram and the table are out of perpendicularity a piece of bent drill rod long enough to reach a large diameter placed in the chuck with an indicator will tell you how much the the ram is off from the table. Some tables have rotating mounts and some judicious peening, sanding or lapping could bring in the other axis in if it was out of your spec. The set up in the drill is easy verifiable for RO also. The pilot also works in your favor. If you just have to do it that way you can get good results. A runout stand with a .0005 test indicator can tell you what you need to know.
I figure if my loaded cartridge runout is less than a .001” (measured from .3” from case mouth on bearing surface) my “common drill press” which does “...NOT AHVE (sic) THE RUN OUT required for precision.” is P.D.P. (Perfectly Damn Precise). Some posters on this site (not directed at you Concha) get twisted around the axle for no good reason.
 
I like the pma neck turning tool. Get cutters to match your shoulder angle and the proper turning mandrels for your brass

http://www.pmatool.com/neck-turning-equipment/

I like the K&M micrometer 60 degree modification. If you are just.going.to do a 75% cleanup it is really not.necessary but.if you want.consistent neck thickness throughout the brass neck and a group of cases it is the only way to be sure. I bought.a nice stand for.mine from holland.and holland that sure makes it.easier.to use.

https://kmshooting.com/mitutoyo-micrometer.html
 

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