How to shoot a Contender Accurately?

[riflewoman]

I took a Contender shooting yesterday and tried to shoot 38 Special reloads accurately at 50 yards. I have a 2-7x Redfield rifle scope on it at 7x. My plan was to shoot this to get accuracy results of the ammo in question while getting velocities using a magnetospeed chronograph. The accuracy was disappointing. VERY disappointing. I think it was in my technique. I have a cheapo plastic Caldwell “Pistoleer” pistol rest and I’m sure that was not helping. The remedial technique I came up with was to add a folded towel to the plastic rest then hold the gun on top of the “Vee” with my right hand while holding the scope with my left hand and resting the left arm on the towel draped over the “vee”. Kinda hard to describe... I’m not sure this will work and am open to other suggestions on how to shoot these contenders better?

 

[3Ackleys]

Whatever you can do to get a steady sight picture will work.They take some trigger time to get used to.I have shot them and hunted with them for a few decades. For hunting i run a Harris bi-pod.
It could be the gun though. Many of them were chambered on a drill press and the throat is misaligned with the bore. Headspace, hinge pin clearance and bolt lock-up also cause problems. The triggers in the older Contenders are pretty good not so much in the newer ones. Bellm T-C's is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to the T-C single shots. I have many of the T-C's and they all shoot better after addressing the issues they come with from the factory.
I started out thinking buy 1 frame and a bunch of barrels but they really shoot best for me if I set up each barrel to its own frame.
I have an encore in 416 Rigby that shoots amazing- from a lead sled with 55# of lead! Here is a link to Bellm T-C's https://www.bellmtcs.com/blog/how-to-make-encores-and-g2-work/

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Are you resting the butt on the rest? I found i can make a fist and sit it on the bench with the butt in the top of my fist like between thumb and forefinger then the front can be on anything soft. Get the front supported as far back toward the trigger as long as its not out of balance too bad. The butt couldnt be on anything hard tho

 

[Greyfox]

About 20 years ago Don Bower developed a rest system using flat bases on the forend and buttstock using emery paper. He hosted a seminar/clinic in Alliance NE in 2001 if memory serves. We shot Contenders and Encores with amazing accuracy using that system. I shot my smallest 100 yd group, until I started shooting benchrest, with a Contender chambered in 223x1.85 (.080). If you are interested in the system, PM me and I'll take some pics for you.

Rick

 

[DirtySteve]

I used a sand bag under the forearm and make sure the butt doesn't touch anything. I loved my 7-30 waters... I sure miss that gun.

 

[SEM]

If the barrel you have was used or even brand new the scope base is what causes a lot of the problems like this, remove the base pick all of the usually on used gallons of Loctite out, I finish by taking a bottoming tap and clean out the threads also, if new remove the oil first, place the mount install just one screw in the first hole snug it up try to move the base then repeat for the next three just one screw though, if you find one or more holes loose shorten the screw a thread or two, Or now as I do install all 4 screws to snug with out the base and measure the distance from the barrel surface to the under side of the screw head and see if it is less than the thickness of the base, I was surprised how many barrels have fouled or not tapped deep enough mounting holes.

Of course all of the above apply too, hope it works out

 

[SBS]

I rest the forearm on a soft sandbag on top of a mechanical rest (like a Sinclair or Hart), with the t/g up against the bag. I place the butt on a suitable block of wood with a piece of carpet glued or stapled on top of it. I find with the grip only being held with the hands, I get vertical stringing. With the butt on the block, the butt kicks off it the same every time and also is much steadier than being just trying to hold it as you are squeezing the trigger. By all means, rest on the forearm (as far back as possible) and keep the barrel itself free from front rest contact. +1 on SEM's above post on base screws. Takes a sharp pick to get all the red loctite out of the holes.

 

[muleman69]

I took a Contender shooting yesterday and tried to shoot 38 Special reloads accurately at 50 yards. I have a 2-7x Redfield rifle scope on it at 7x. My plan was to shoot this to get accuracy results of the ammo in question while getting velocities using a magnetospeed chronograph. The accuracy was disappointing. VERY disappointing. I think it was in my technique. I have a cheapo plastic Caldwell “Pistoleer” pistol rest and I’m sure that was not helping. The remedial technique I came up with was to add a folded towel to the plastic rest then hold the gun on top of the “Vee” with my right hand while holding the scope with my left hand and resting the left arm on the towel draped over the “vee”. Kinda hard to describe... I’m not sure this will work and am open to other suggestions on how to shoot these contenders better?

Thank you for the post as I have been trying to improve with my Encore

 

[riflewoman]

I used a new EGW Pic-rail for Contender barrels on these after removing the factory rear sight. One drop of loctite on the threads of the screws. The bases are drawn up tight. But thanks for the info.

 

[riflewoman]

I rest the forearm on a soft sandbag on top of a mechanical rest (like a Sinclair or Hart), with the t/g up against the bag. I place the butt on a suitable block of wood with a piece of carpet glued or stapled on top of it. I find with the grip only being held with the hands, I get vertical stringing. With the butt on the block, the butt kicks off it the same every time and also is much steadier than being just trying to hold it as you are squeezing the trigger. By all means, rest on the forearm (as far back as possible) and keep the barrel itself free from front rest contact. +1 on SEM's above post on base screws. Takes a sharp pick to get all the red loctite out of the holes.

thanks. I’ll try that.

 

[snert]

I have a 357 herrett and a 22 K hornet, both 14 inch. The Herrett has a 2x and the K has a 10X.

From a bench I find that I need a soft slushy bag. I use a pant-leg with bird seed in it for the front, usually tossed over a mechanical rest or even a chunk of heavy wood. At the back I get by with a folded towel. a firm high grip that brings the recoil straight back into the web between the forefinger and thumb seems to be the proper grip. The weak hand is 40% grip, 60% with strong hand.

It is not legal to add a straight down stabilizer in place of the front screw on the forened but it isnt illegal to add a wooden wedge, similar to the things seen on AR types. Basically this is just a redneck fancy forearm. I have a field expedient "stop" that is reversed from the normal AR front grip. It is a wedge of wood that slopes forward to the front of the forearm, but has a vertical area just about halfway up the forearm. When shooting from a tree stand with a rail I toss a little slinky bag over the rail, hook the vertical part of my wood forearm in front of the rail and pull back. Like shooting off a bench. I have piled up 19 deer at over 100 yards (longest 167) with the Herrett. On the K, I use a short bipod and a towel off a bench.

If the gun isnt shooting it may be you. But as others have said, it could be the ammo or the barrel combo. My Herrett shoots old 180 grain SSp bullets (anyone have any??) into clover leafs at 75 yards. The K will print half inch-1 inch groups at 100.

Work on that grip and keeping your head behind the gun. It takes familiarity. If you know someone who has another barrel, try it out and see if it also shoots poorly. If it does, It is likely you. Just keep at it, you will grow into it and once you do, the Contender becomes a magic wand.

 

[SEM]

Contender is a magic bean, once you have it, it just takes over

 

[jsn]

Is the barrel 38 Special or 357 Magnum?

Is the chamber cut concentric? A lot of the early ones weren't. Mike Bellm, referenced above, once told a story of a photo published by TC showing chambering done in a drill press.

 

[JSH]

If this is a 357 barrel, I would suggest using 357 brass.
Yes I know 38’s should work. I have never had good results with such.

I am with others even if it is a 38 special barrel, bad throats and chambers.

An idea of how it grouped or a picture of the target would be helpful.

 

[Bruce W]

Put a sling swivel stud in the fore end and use a bi pod with a bag under the butt. Great for load development.
Slight fore ward pressure into the pod while shooting. Lots of fun pissing off rifle shooters with my 221 bullberry match barrel and 12 x leupold, sub 1 inch at 100 yds

 

[tred1956]

Rest was made by a memeber of SP username XPFuzz, unfortunately Cayle has now gone home to be with the Lord. I am sure he still makes the best rest But now it is made of GOLD Rest In peace My Friend

All good advice. Good trigger very important. CONSISTENT GRIP very important. For me (since 1978) vertical stringing = interfering with or not consistent grip during recoil. Horizontal variations = flinch or inconsistent trigger pull (usually from heavy trigger) or bad shooting habits.

MOST important to check load is a solid rest (while watching all of the above). Both front and rear bags on my rest are filled with heavy sand and gun is rested solidly on both. Don't try to control the recoil just safely hold the gun. Doesn't have to be fancy just solid and repeatable. CONSISTENCY is the key (at least for me ) in EVERYTHING. After 4 decades if the gun doesn't almost surprise me when it fires I am not shooting my best.

Confidence also plays a big part. Several occasions my Grandson who is just getting into Contenders and reloading wants to blame bad groups on the gun/load. Then I shoot it relaxed , confident with 40 years trigger time and in teaching mode. 9 times out of 10 once he sees what it will do his groups shrink dramatically. Just my 2 Cents and may not apply to all LOL

If I do the above and still get bad groups then I blame it on the load or the gun (as stated above some made pretty bad)

Here is one of my setups. Group shot at 100 yards

Hope this helps and Merry Christmas
Doug

 

[boltfluter]

Doug,

Very nice set up you have there! Is the rest home made? Looks very nice.

Paul

 

[Handi204]

Practice Practice Practice! It took me about 3 years of frustration to be able to shoot accurate groups at 100 yds. Starting at 25 then 50 then 100. Most of the time I use a bipod with a soft squeeze bag under the grip. If you have an original Contender lighten the trigger as much as possible if a G2 install a 3 lb. spring from Mike Bellim . But most of all stay with it and Practice.
Good luck

 

[lb-ft]

Dusty, several others above pretty well in line with how I’ve found immense success w/Contender.

I use pile of sandbags; under forearm, they form a snug v almost as stable against rocking motion as a bipod.

I’ll add that my grip is firm. Trigger hand is crammed forward into sandbag pile. Support hand is cupping trigger hand and fully supporting butt of grip.

Classic load of wadcutters w/Bullseye should prove satisfactory for you.

 

[Link]

A lot of guys have found vertical with a TC like pictured because of the lockup? Sometimes a oversized pin helps.
I have a 35 Rem 14'' hunter that shoots 1 moa if I do my part.
Have fun.