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No mess decapping press??

Spent primers are nasty, its the bad lead residue in the black stuff with minor amounts of carbon. My old Rockchucker press is used with a Lee decap die and has a plastic wrap-around primer catcher held on with rebar wire poked thru holes in the plastic - decap is done in a separate operation. I wear nitrile gloves while decapping, immediately clean up everything upon completion and deposit spent primers and clean up stuff in a sealed plastic bag then toss in trash; lead dust cannot be absorbed thru the skin but can be inhaled or ingested.

Punching out the spent primer & having it slide directly into a disposable container would be better. Lead can make a person sick and is difficult to cure. Just thinking about an accumulation of dust from a decade or more of decap operations involving 10's of thousands of primers. Scrubbing out that plastic primer catcher would be a good move.
 
Decapping with a reloading press is liking trying to wash your behind with the underwear still on it.

This is all you need:
https://harveydeprimer.com/

Consider a custom full length sizing die. My resizing process is to wash the brass, lube then full length resize & decap in one stroke. Works best if your necks are very consistent. Plan B is to use expander expander mandrels to obtain consistent neck tension.
Ben
 
For a dedicated de-priming press the Lee Classic Cast press is probably the cleanest lowest price press available. On mine I filled the priming slot with a piece of aluminum plate. No dust can leak out. With a Lee Universal De-capping die you can handle any case size and also military brass with crimped primers.
The Co-Ax is also good but it's expensive,hard to find at times and the overhead handle is harder (at least for me) to use for the repetitive strokes used in de-priming. The shell holder on the Co-Ax is also a chore to change for different size case heads.
I own both of these presses and that is my experience.
 
Decapping with a reloading press is liking trying to wash your behind with the underwear still on it.

Interesting you saying that, when every major die maker has the decapping procedure in their sizing die and they all go into a reloading press...…
 
I got a Lee hand press that is strictly for depriming. The ram contains the old primers. It will hold 25 large primers before it needs to be emptied. I take it outside to deprime, and dump the old primers into an old coffee can. This keeps all the mess away from my reloading area.
 

That makes perfect sense if you don't mind lubing up dirty fouled cases and depriming at the same time you resize them. To me, that makes for a horrible mess if you prefer a spray-on lube, and makes little sense as I alluded to above. I prefer to decap cases prior to cleaning with SS pins/tumbling, which then do a pretty good job cleaning out the primer pockets. After cleaning, I first uniform the primer pockets, then anneal, then lube and re-size cases, then clean off the lube, then trim/chamfer. That's the order that makes the most sense to me, as I don't want to spray a bunch of One Shot lube onto dirty, still-primed cases. However, to each their own. As long as you end up with a satisfactory product, the processing order may not matter that much.
 
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The Lee Classic cast works great. I filled the priming arm cut out with a block of rubber, and ran the drop hose into a bucket on the floor. It stays pretty clean.
It's affordable for a dedicated depriming press, but a great all around press too.
I use mine for most all of my reloading now.
 
I bought a Forster Co-Axial press mainly to do all my bullet seating on. But it has become my decapping press. Everything drops down the hole in the base, down the tube and into the container that screws on the bottom of the tube. You will have zero primer residue on your press or surrounding area. Not cheap, but is a great press for other things also.
View attachment 1141349
I do the same, I bought the Forster Co-Axial press 40 years ago but did not like it except for the depriming feature. So it has been on my bench ever since and that is all I use it for. I doubt most people would pay that much for a depriming tool even if it is the best.
 
I am also thinking of getting a press just for decapping. I don’t know if I want to pay $330 for another CoAx or get something like the Rockchucker for $160. I am not interested in the hand held decappers.
 
I am also thinking of getting a press just for decapping. I don’t know if I want to pay $330 for another CoAx or get something like the Rockchucker for $160. I am not interested in the hand held decappers.
Brownell’s has the Redding Big Boss II on sale right now, and wth the 11% off code makes it $175. It has the drop tube primer collector, like the T7.
 
I bought a Forster Co-Axial press mainly to do all my bullet seating on. But it has become my decapping press. Everything drops down the hole in the base, down the tube and into the container that screws on the bottom of the tube. You will have zero primer residue on your press or surrounding area. Not cheap, but is a great press for other things also.
View attachment 1141349
I agree on this but so easy to swap out dies you’ll use it for a lot more
 
lee-breech-lock-reloader-press-jpg.1141646

Lee #90045
I mounted on a ledge, with a tall Rx bottle lid (with a hole in it), screwed under a hole in the ledge.
Put a Mighty Armory decap die on.
1/8 turn to remove med bottle, Cap and dispose the full primer bottle, and snap a new empty in its place.
It'll handle any case, and keep your real press clean!

I have an extra Brand New one, I could ship for $35.
 
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