i “built” an AR for my buddy with quality parts for $650 add scope and mount $900. It’s a modern .30-30!
Buying during an election year, safe or stupid?
- Thread starter AAAOA
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i “built” an AR for my buddy with quality parts for $650 add scope and mount $900. It’s a modern .30-30!
If you want a lifetime rifle that could do light hunting varmint and home defense grab a 38/357 lever gun. Very few people talk about targeting that platform for confiscation and you can easily vary the power of the platform by case and load. Max loads of 357 will easily take dear and 38s for varmints with two and four legs.
I would like to also mention pawn shops as a good place to pick up a decent rifle/scope combination. Demand is low, so prices are subject to your bargaining ability.
BTW: I put my college son in a Savage model 12FV in 223 to learn to shoot. With his young eyes and the inherent accuracy of the Savages, he has put 5 into a group under .1 inch at 100 yds.
BTW: I put my college son in a Savage model 12FV in 223 to learn to shoot. With his young eyes and the inherent accuracy of the Savages, he has put 5 into a group under .1 inch at 100 yds.
CZ makes a nice gun but not really a budget choice.
An AR can be built really cheap, under $500 if you just want something that works and $7-800 will get you a very nice one. The good thing is you don't have to pay all at once, I've built ARs over 3-4 years waiting for good prices on exactly what I want. It is easier to wait when you have several already.
An AR can be built really cheap, under $500 if you just want something that works and $7-800 will get you a very nice one. The good thing is you don't have to pay all at once, I've built ARs over 3-4 years waiting for good prices on exactly what I want. It is easier to wait when you have several already.
I have to jump in here and mention some things that you might not have put enough consideration into...
The common hunting rifle is lighter weight and in cartridges like say 270 Winchester and up, have significant recoil, enough recoil that you might not feel like shooting much with such a rifle. I'm that way and hate shooting these types of rifles. You can have a muzzle brake installed, and a thicker recoil pad put on too, but that will be an extra expense if the rifle doesn't come with those from the factory. For hunting on occasion, the recoil can be put up with but for enjoying practicing or shooting long range while pumping a lot of ammo downrange you want a soft shooting rifle.
I often have to spot my own shots when I shoot long range and it's critical I """SEE""" where I miss in the dirt so I can make a correction on the next shot. With a heavy kicker it's very hard to do this!
If it were me I'd buy a decent quality 6.5 Grendel AR. It's a cartridge known for accuracy, is light recoiling, can be used effectively at long range (in my case all the way to 1122 yards before), and enough energy for taking deer to 500Y. What I'm getting at is it's a joy to shoot in a AR. Well if you screw up a shot on a game animal you have a quick follow up shot with a semi auto which can save the day so to speak.
I sold a scope to a guy who asked me to sight in his new lightweight 308 AR10 carbine, although it didn't hurt to shoot at all, it did hop around a lot which I didn't like.
I use bigger cartridges but they are in heavy and braked rifles which are a joy to shoot because of those recoil mitigation aspects.
My suggestion for a bolt rifle is a Tikka CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor and then buying a Area 419 brake.
The common hunting rifle is lighter weight and in cartridges like say 270 Winchester and up, have significant recoil, enough recoil that you might not feel like shooting much with such a rifle. I'm that way and hate shooting these types of rifles. You can have a muzzle brake installed, and a thicker recoil pad put on too, but that will be an extra expense if the rifle doesn't come with those from the factory. For hunting on occasion, the recoil can be put up with but for enjoying practicing or shooting long range while pumping a lot of ammo downrange you want a soft shooting rifle.
I often have to spot my own shots when I shoot long range and it's critical I """SEE""" where I miss in the dirt so I can make a correction on the next shot. With a heavy kicker it's very hard to do this!
If it were me I'd buy a decent quality 6.5 Grendel AR. It's a cartridge known for accuracy, is light recoiling, can be used effectively at long range (in my case all the way to 1122 yards before), and enough energy for taking deer to 500Y. What I'm getting at is it's a joy to shoot in a AR. Well if you screw up a shot on a game animal you have a quick follow up shot with a semi auto which can save the day so to speak.
I sold a scope to a guy who asked me to sight in his new lightweight 308 AR10 carbine, although it didn't hurt to shoot at all, it did hop around a lot which I didn't like.
I use bigger cartridges but they are in heavy and braked rifles which are a joy to shoot because of those recoil mitigation aspects.
My suggestion for a bolt rifle is a Tikka CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor and then buying a Area 419 brake.
You asked, so: I think you should put up a Palmetto State AR, a sack of aluminum mags, and a 'k of cheap ammo, in a closet of someone you trust. None of it's going to be cheaper next year.
Buy a walnut'n'blue bolt gun next year.
Buy a walnut'n'blue bolt gun next year.
I don't think 6.5 Grendle has enough energy at 500 yards to take deer. I don't think I would be anxious to try a 400 yard shot either. I think 400 yards is getting pretty marginal for hunting with 6.5 Creedmoor which has a velocity and B.C. advantage.
Grendle fan boys think it's the greatest thing since sliced bread but really it's just a 900-1,000 yard paper puncher.
You can make it in to a hunting cartridge but then it's not the 1,000 yard paper puncher they think it is.
6.8 SPC with Barnes solids has more energy at the muzzle without needing a long barrel and by the time the higher B.C. of the 12X grain 6.5mm bullets let's the energy vs. distance curves cross, both are pretty close to the lower limit of what you want for clean kills.
For hunting they are a lot closer than Grendle fans will admit and neither is as good as .308 but they do fit in an AR15.
Grendle fan boys think it's the greatest thing since sliced bread but really it's just a 900-1,000 yard paper puncher.
You can make it in to a hunting cartridge but then it's not the 1,000 yard paper puncher they think it is.
6.8 SPC with Barnes solids has more energy at the muzzle without needing a long barrel and by the time the higher B.C. of the 12X grain 6.5mm bullets let's the energy vs. distance curves cross, both are pretty close to the lower limit of what you want for clean kills.
For hunting they are a lot closer than Grendle fans will admit and neither is as good as .308 but they do fit in an AR15.
Do a 80% lower kit. No serial #.
No # = nobody knows you have it, not registering lower with a DOJ# is a misdemeanor.( From Google )
As for a bolt intake a good hard look at the Ruger American predator, it ain't pretty by no means with its pos Tupperware stock, but it flat out shoots.
You can pick one up for $400. Look for upcoming sales, I believe my buddy scored his for $250.
Now you'll have a few extra bucks to purchase a decent used scope outta the classifieds.
As money permits you can accessorize your RAP with a new stock, trigger, brake.
FWIW I've shot so many wallet groups with mine, I bought 2 wallet's to carry them all in.
No # = nobody knows you have it, not registering lower with a DOJ# is a misdemeanor.( From Google )
As for a bolt intake a good hard look at the Ruger American predator, it ain't pretty by no means with its pos Tupperware stock, but it flat out shoots.
You can pick one up for $400. Look for upcoming sales, I believe my buddy scored his for $250.
Now you'll have a few extra bucks to purchase a decent used scope outta the classifieds.
As money permits you can accessorize your RAP with a new stock, trigger, brake.
FWIW I've shot so many wallet groups with mine, I bought 2 wallet's to carry them all in.
jimmymac
Jim McGregor
Opinions are like, well...you get the idea. But, if it were me I’d be looking for a nice used bolt gun. $700 would get you a nice rig including a scope if you look around a little. I’d buy a common caliber also for ease of ammo purchase. Are you a shooter now, or are you just starting out?
Respect.
Respect.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Remington 700 sps in 6.5creedmoor-@$300 on black friday, used scope from here for under $300 and an 870 express on sale when you need it. All your bases are covered instead of throwing money at an ar youll either have to “sell back” or hide.
I've been shooting a bit since I was about 12, now nearly 21. Mostly 12 gauge and 22lr but I've fired some lighter 30-06 loads and plenty of surplus 8mm mauser with little issue provided it's positioned in my shoulder properly. None of these are mine however with the exception of the 22lr which I got for my 16th birthday.
Definitely considering it, but if this'd be a rifle caliber home defense rifle I'm thinking I'd want to suppress it. It's my understand that you need a serial # in order to fill out those forms. Shooting subsonics might be a decent remedy for that so I don't bust my ears if I ever need to touch off a round indoors as not having a serial # is a pretty big advantage.
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garandman
Bolt Gun Bodacious
Rifle / firearms ser. no. not required for suppressor purchase. Suppressors are registered NFA "stand alone" items, as the rifle / pistol host is interchangeable (within caliber restrictions) A $200 ATF registration / tax stamp is required.
Rifles really aren't "home defense" items for reasons already explained. Handguns (ease of maneuverability) and shotguns (simply racking the gun will send all but zombie crackheads running) are much better suited. Never firing a shot is the real goal.
AR's / AK's are "citizen militia" items.
If you want a home defense gun that can be shouldered, get an SBR that you then could suppress (2- $200 tax stamps) :
From all I've read....I;d recommend a hunting rifle in 30-06 / 308 and a home defense pistol to get yer collection started.
jimmymac
Jim McGregor
Thanks for the reply. I’d definitely get a used bolt gun then in a common caliber. .30-06 or 270 in a long action. .308 or 6.5 in a short action. You can’t go wrong there. Ammo everywhere, and it’s not like you will only be tied to this gun for all your future needs once you get out of college. You’ll be gainfully employed, then the fun really begins. Good luck in your search.
Huh, so in the event I purchased a rifle/carbine and permanently attached a suppressor to reach a barrel length of 16" I would only need one tax stamp and only for the suppressor?
A pistol would clearly be the superior option, however my ability to shoot a pistol accurately has a long road ahead. My father tried to teach me to shoot pistol on his .40 caliber Baretta and I've got an awful flinch as a result. I am significantly more comfortable with a rifle, never really bought the idea of a shotgun for much other than clays and birds.
garandman
Bolt Gun Bodacious
Correct. Assemblng your own AR upper is one idea. Others sell suppressed uppers with one tax stamp.
.40 cal is "snappy." Unpleasant to shoot. 9mm is much better and 22rf is the best pistol training tool to get rid of the flinch.
Firearms are an immense "rabbit hole."
And yeah.... shottys aren't really my thing either.Definitely looking at getting either a used browning or ruger .22lr for practice though I know it would be useless for anything other than practice or plinking, but I kinda need practice lol.
My father has the .40 because during his time in the Army and time he spent in the Ranger Battalion lead to him disliking 9mm greatly. Always said "it didn't have enough stopping power". But military ball 9mm and those crazy self defense hollow points you see on the shelves are two different things.
Perhaps I am getting a bit ahead of myself but I do always like a lay out a super comprehensive plan. The apparent cheap go to option may hinder me down the line in ways I wouldn't expect. Buying an upper with a suppressor would be way cheaper than buying a rifle, then a suppressor, then cutting and threading the barrel. No way I'd see that if I'm thinking way ahead.
The AR15 is the clear choice, but it's certainly not the only one out there.
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