FX120 scale drifts with new autotrickler (no autothrow)

[Deleted old_dood]

Half hour warm up is always done. At the end of the first 25 loads I did I noticed the scale with the supplied powder cup, when empty, did not read zero. The selected load was 30.8g. I dumped the last case back into the cup after zeroing and the scale read 30.96g.

I originally thought that the increased weight of the cup, compared to what I had been using (882g vs. 44g), was causing a shift in how the plate was sitting on the scale. I tested this by zeroing the scale with the supplied cup and proceeded to remove and put back on about 25 times. No drift was noted.

I then proceeded to drop 30g charges in the normal manner and saw the drift after about 4 or 5 drops. It was .04g. the only thing I can think of is the new electronics because this never happened before. I've had my scale for about 5 years.

previous to the autotrickler the scale was plugged into an unswitched outlet. Because of the shorter cord on the new power transformer I couldn't use the same outlet and had to switch to switched power which could not be left on all the time. I've since used a short extension cord to get the transformer back on the same outlet I had been using.

If that doesn't fix my problem, any ideas? I'm thinking of a transformer with a choke on the cord or possibly having to re zero every 5-10 loads.

 

[Poor Shot 65]

I have this same issue w/just an auto-tricker. Start loading w/an empty cup and the scale reads 0.00 then after 15/20 loads - the scale reads .04 - .06 (again w/an empty cup). It is very frustrating.

 

[Deleted old_dood]

I have this same issue w/just an auto-tricker. Start loading w/an empty cup and the scale reads 0.00 then after 15/20 loads - the scale reads .04 - .06 (again w/an empty cup). It is very frustrating.

is your scale plugged into a switched or unswitched outlet?

 

[JimSC]

I use a 120i without autotrickler these days and find it will drifts a bit over time. I set the empty cup after filling the case and make sure that the scale zeros before dumping the next load. I did 80 throws this morning of 37.5 gns and reset the zero twice or three times in the 2 hours it took me to load and seat. Slower than a auto trickler but I could pull the powder from a random case and bet money it would measure 37.50

Mine is on a unswitched filtered outlet and the nearest florescent is about 8 feet away. Having my phone close or far does not seem to matter much. I think it is just the nature of the scale

 

[ridgeway]

What seemed to help is calibrate with cup on scale.

 

[F Class John]

There’s a couple other older threads that address this but here’s my quick response since I can’t find my older one. Having called Cambridge and asked about this issue last year there are a couple things you can do that may help. In my case they removed nearly all the drift I was experiencing.

Unplug your scale anytime you’re not using it. The OFF button doesn’t actually clear the internal memory and every time you zero it, it adds positive or negative amounts to the internal memory which ultimately make it less accurate.

After turning on and waiting, calibrate the scale with a weight.

If possible use a dedicated plug or use a line conditioner as well as a good surge protector. You can also use a APS or battery backup so the unit isn’t even plugged in when using it.

In a number of cases people dint realize how sensitive the scale itself is. Build the best shield around it you can. I used all four panels and drilled a hole in the right just for the trickler and cut the front panel in half so my cup just barely fits through.

It’s a magnetic force restoration scale so light, phones and other airborne electrical interferences don’t cause any issues. Only line interference will cause an issue.

Remember this is a lab grade scale meant for lab room use. As such most reloading rooms and systems aren’t to that standard and minor problems may occur depending on the room and setup.

In my case I was also using the Area419 tray at the time and for whatever reason (and I love their products) it was causing massive drift. When I switched back to the factory plate most of my issues disappeared immediately. May not be everyone issues but in my case it did.

Hope some of this helps.

 

[ridgeway]

Good to know John!

 

[Mike7.62]

What type of powder are you using? I had that problem when using A1680, a very fine ball powder, which seems to be much more prone to static stickiness than the IMR 4895 I had been using. With the 1680 I noticed that there were grains of powder still remaining in the shot glass, which gave me problems such as you are describing, only it was every drop vs. every 10 or so. I had to ensure that each time I poured the charge into the case that ALL the powder went in. I started using a red sable water color brush to get the residual 1680 out of the powder cup. I also noticed this "stickiness" when I was emptying the powder reservoir.

 

[Ccrider]

I have this same issue w/just an auto-tricker. Start loading w/an empty cup and the scale reads 0.00 then after 15/20 loads - the scale reads .04 - .06 (again w/an empty cup). It is very frustrating.

Same here.

 

[Poor Shot 65]

is your scale plugged into a switched or unswitched outlet?

plugged into a switched outlet. also if im not using the scale (and leave it powered on) there is no drift what so ever. In the picture below the scale has now been powered on for 14+ hours and still reads 0.00. The drift only occurs when the scale is in use (and not even using the auto-trickler). Also just installed the large breeze break on the scale .. its really nice and would recommend it.

 

[JimSC]

Unplug your scale anytime you’re not using it. The OFF button doesn’t actually clear the internal memory and every time you zero it, it adds positive or negative amounts to the internal memory which ultimately make it less accurate.

After turning on and waiting, calibrate the scale with a weight.

Unplugging now. I will be doing some .223 tomorrow and we will see if that clears the issue, thanks for the info

 

[Poor Shot 65]

If you unplug the unit -- wont you have to then re-calibrate it ? Im pretty sure that you will need to do so.

 

[DngBat7]

There’s a couple other older threads that address this but here’s my quick response since I can’t find my older one. Having called Cambridge and asked about this issue last year there are a couple things you can do that may help. In my case they removed nearly all the drift I was experiencing.

Unplug your scale anytime you’re not using it. The OFF button doesn’t actually clear the internal memory and every time you zero it, it adds positive or negative amounts to the internal memory which ultimately make it less accurate.

After turning on and waiting, calibrate the scale with a weight.

If possible use a dedicated plug or use a line conditioner as well as a good surge protector. You can also use a APS or battery backup so the unit isn’t even plugged in when using it.

In a number of cases people dint realize how sensitive the scale itself is. Build the best shield around it you can. I used all four panels and drilled a hole in the right just for the trickler and cut the front panel in half so my cup just barely fits through.

It’s a magnetic force restoration scale so light, phones and other airborne electrical interferences don’t cause any issues. Only line interference will cause an issue.

Remember this is a lab grade scale meant for lab room use. As such most reloading rooms and systems aren’t to that standard and minor problems may occur depending on the room and setup.

In my case I was also using the Area419 tray at the time and for whatever reason (and I love their products) it was causing massive drift. When I switched back to the factory plate most of my issues disappeared immediately. May not be everyone issues but in my case it did.

Hope some of this helps.

I thought I was the only one having this issue. What is a line conditioner?

 

[F Class John]

If you unplug the unit -- wont you have to then re-calibrate it ? Im pretty sure that you will need to do so.

Yes like I said in my post above you will have to calibrate it every time but that takes literally a minute to do.

 

[F Class John]

I thought I was the only one having this issue. What is a line conditioner?

In simple terms it helps remove any abnormalities in the voltage coming through your line.

here’s an example of one.

Tripp Lite LC1200 Line Conditioner 1200W AVR Surge 120V 10A 60Hz 4 Outlet 7-Feet Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000512LA/?tag=accuratescom-20

 

[Deleted old_dood]

plugged into a switched outlet. also if im not using the scale (and leave it powered on) there is no drift what so ever. In the picture below the scale has now been powered on for 14+ hours and still reads 0.00. The drift only occurs when the scale is in use (and not even using the auto-trickler). Also just installed the large breeze break on the scale .. its really nice and would recommend it.

Like you, when not being used, there's no drift. Prior to having the autotrickler I dropped into a metal 35mm film can and trickled manually (with an Omega). At the end of 100 cases, I could put the film can on the scale and it would still read zero. It was so consistent that I almost never calibrated. I'd turn it on and put the film can on and if it read what it was supposed to before zeroing I just started loading. At the time the scale was plugged into an unswitched outlet. It was used that way for years. There's very little air movement, only that which was caused by hand movement. The only thing different now is the new transformer, internal electronics, and trickler motor.

someone else asked what powders I use. So far Varget and 4831sc. With CFE I don't plan on using the scale other than for adjusting my drop then I just drop directly into the case.

 

[DngBat7]

Did this problem happen to anybody with the v2 trickler? Maybe I will have to switch back to see what happens. Did anybody contact Adam to ask him?

 

[Poor Shot 65]

Mine is the v2 trickler and it happens all the time

 

[Poor Shot 65]

Like you, when not being used, there's no drift. Prior to having the autotrickler I dropped into a metal 35mm film can and trickled manually (with an Omega). At the end of 100 cases, I could put the film can on the scale and it would still read zero. It was so consistent that I almost never calibrated. I'd turn it on and put the film can on and if it read what it was supposed to before zeroing I just started loading. At the time the scale was plugged into an unswitched outlet. It was used that way for years. There's very little air movement, only that which was caused by hand movement. The only thing different now is the new transformer, internal electronics, and trickler motor.

someone else asked what powders I use. So far Varget and 4831sc. With CFE I don't plan on using the scale other than for adjusting my drop then I just drop directly into the case.

This is the exact reason why i dont like the auto-trickler. I cant trust that the scale hasn't drifted before the trickler kicks off. Im thinking of dumping the auto-trickler and just using a powder drop with the dandy power trickler -- it makes things so simple and its almost the same speed as using the auto trickler. Sometimes adding complexity isnt the best IMO.

 

[TZaun]

I have problems when I plug in my AutoTrickler too. I tried to communicate the problems with Adam a long time ago. It wasn't going anywhere helpful so I put mine away. Never had a lick of trouble with my A&D 120 before the AutoTrickler and never had a lick of trouble after. Plug the AutoTrickler back in and my A&D 120 drifts just like explained above. Mine is whatever the first model was.