Do I need both a roughing and a Finish Reamer?

[carlsbad]

Wow.

 

[shortgrass]

Would it pay the average shooter to spend the extra money for a carbide finish reamer and not use a rougher?

No

 

[Cloudrepair]

However you choose to do it my concern would be is it runing true to the dialed in point of the bore
within .0002
I have read many instances where people really don't understand what they are doing isn't going to get them there.
An important thing you could do is get some takeoff barrels to work on and find someone with experience doing it to work with you if possible.
If not read all you can find on chambering here.
Then use the takeoff for practise not expecting to use them until you know you have safe results.
Have fun be safe
If your not chambering it yourself ignore earlier part of my post

 

[hoz53]

However you choose to do it my concern would be is it runing true to the dialed in point of the bore
within .0002
I have read many instances where people really don't understand what they are doing isn't going to get them there.
An important thing you could do is get some takeoff barrels to work on and find someone with experience doing it to work with you if possible.
If not read all you can find on chambering here.
Then use the takeoff for practise not expecting to use them until you know you have safe results.
Have fun be safe
If your not chambering it yourself ignore earlier part of my post

" is it running true to the dialed in point of the bore". do you think to accomplish this it would be better to use a finish reamer only with the pilot always in the bore and a floating holder or bore so the pilot isnt in the bore for most of the job and use a pusher so the reamer aligns itself to the hole you have hopefully bored aligned with the bore. hinnault actually recommends in his book to bore a little, ream alittle, and keep alternating that so you can keep the pilot in the bore. i dont think most people will mess around with it that much.

 

[Linko]

So, if I am having a gunsmith chamber a barrel for me and he doesn't have the caliber reamer I need, do I give him a rougher and a finisher OR just a Finisher. That's my question.

 

[Cloudrepair]

" is it running true to the dialed in point of the bore". do you think to accomplish this it would be better to use a finish reamer only with the pilot always in the bore and a floating holder or bore so the pilot isnt in the bore for most of the job and use a pusher so the reamer aligns itself to the hole you have hopefully bored aligned with the bore. hinnault actually recommends in his book to bore a little, ream alittle, and keep alternating that so you can keep the pilot in the bore. i dont think most people will mess around with it that much.

It depends on how you dial it in.
If you are dialing it in at breach and throat then timing muzzle it may be fine if i was doing it that way I would want the length of the chamber right up to the throat and a inch or more ahead of that dialed in to .0002 that may not be possible in 2.000 -3.500 or more inches.
Also cutting off the lapping bell so the bore is true right to the breach face.
I don't like timing the barrel to12:00 or 6:00 With that unknown amount of curve or helix so us the dial in the throat and muzzle method and drill undersized then bore a true hole for reamer to follow if I don't have a true section from throat and forward of about 1.250 I take the pilot bushing off so it won't influence reamer.
It may be overkill for some but I like it.
The bore ream bore ream bore ream method seems overkill and you would still need the first few inches dialed in also because you are relying on the bore to be true anyway.
Maybe fine if you need the practise and doing it the Gordy way.

 

[Cloudrepair]

So, if I am having a gunsmith chamber a barrel for me and he doesn't have the caliber reamer I need, do I give him a rougher and a finisher OR just a Finisher. That's my question.

They will tell you to ask him.
my guess no need for the rougher doing my own I would rather spend the money on a carbide boring bar and that can be my rougher (serve the purpose of a rougher)

 

[hoz53]

It depends on how you dial it in.
If you are dialing it in at breach and throat then timing muzzle it may be fine if i was doing it that way I would want the length of the chamber right up to the throat and a inch or more ahead of that dialed in to .0002 that may not be possible in 2.000 -3.500 or more inches.
Also cutting off the lapping bell so the bore is true right to the breach face.
I don't like timing the barrel to12:00 or 6:00 With that unknown amount of curve or helix so us the dial in the throat and muzzle method and drill undersized then bore a true hole for reamer to follow if I don't have a true section from throat and forward of about 1.250 I take the pilot bushing off so it won't influence reamer.
It may be overkill for some but I like it.
The bore ream bore ream bore ream method seems overkill and you would still need the first few inches dialed in also because you are relying on the bore to be true anyway.
Maybe fine if you need the practise and doing it the Gordy way.

wow thanks for all that info. i dial in the bore in several locations at the breech end so the chamber will be lined up with that section of bore.( i hope) i wont be using the ream bore ream bore method for sure.

 

[shortgrass]

So, if I am having a gunsmith chamber a barrel for me and he doesn't have the caliber reamer I need, do I give him a rougher and a finisher OR just a Finisher. That's my question.

Ask the gunsmith that will be doing the chambering. Also, ask him whos' reamers he seems to like the best.

 

[Linko]

Ok, now I need to find a gunsmith that knows all that!

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Ok, now I need to find a gunsmith that knows all that!

if he doesnt, keep looking.

 

[Linko]

Is Kelbly's a good choice for the chambering? I am using their action.

 

[Linko]

The Kelbly's Panda has a cone bolt face. I want the gunsmith to also get that right.

 

[Linko]

As well as the crown

 

[shortgrass]

I gotta' wonder, do you go down this same route when you're needing a mechanic or a HVAC repair/install? Or do you just hire the lowest cost and hope he knows what he's doing?

 

[Linko]

I gotta' wonder, do you go down this same route when you're needing a mechanic or a HVAC repair/install? Or do you just hire the lowest cost and hope he knows what he's doing?

Yes, I ask people who have experience, who they know did a good job for them. The only gunsmith I have experience with scratched the slide on a new Kimber when I asked him to change the sights.
I usually find the members here to be very helpful with their advice.

I plan to purchase the reamer or reamers I need and send them to the gunsmith along with my barrel choice. That was my original post. I don't think I heard any posts against having both reamers. Other than the cost. It would think it reduce the wear on the finish reamer .

(Finding a good gunsmith was a side note that came from the posts)

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Kelblys can get that cone right and the crown plus you dont need a reamer since they already have one. There i saved you $500

 

[shortgrass]

Kelblys can get that cone right and the crown plus you dont need a reamer since they already have one. There i saved you $500

Seems to me like any competent gunsmith that chambers should be able to get the cone, head space and crown right! The only way I'd buy roughing reamers is if I was doing production work. The use of a roughing won't make the chamber any better on a custom job, and finish reamers tend to last as long as they're treated right. I read about those who won't use a throating reamer because of the chance of "mis-alinement". Well, If you use a roughing reamer isn't there the chance of mis-alinement there too, because of using multiple cutting tools in the same chamber? Sorry you used a 'hack' gunsmith, Linko. There is a difference in capabilities and skills in gunsmiths just as there is in mechanics, HVAC techs, plumbers, electricians and machinists.

 

[Ccrider]

Reading this thread and ask my gunsmith his thoughts. This is what he said. Any thoughts?
“The key in my experience is to use a floating reamer holder dial in the bore from the spindle end and the outboard spider with a long boar diameter rod this gives the best bore alignment. As far as the reamer I like to use a piloted reamer and clean it often it takes a minimum for me an hour to ream a chamber not set up just reaming because I retract the reamer so often and clean it. I think you get a tighter chamber and a more accurate chamber using one reamer. But I can follow any procedure you’d like. I feel my method is the best but ask another and you’ll get a different answer.”

 

[Ccrider]

@Dusty Stevens, @Cloudrepair, your thoughts?