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Use or not use Blue or Purple Loctite on scope bases?

Pa.Mike

I have always used Blue Loctite without any problem on all my scope bases for years but now I am told it is not necessary in most cases. I was told it matters if a base is steel or aluminum and the shape of the screws as to if it is needed. Any expert opinions on this subject ?
 
Well, once upon a time many years ago, I sheared off the front base screw on a 300wm...this was before I owned a torque wrench. I may have tightened it too much or I may have tightened it not enough.
Regardless I use blue LT. When removing them it only takes a micro torch 5 seconds to gently heat the screw. I will continue to use blue...and a torque wrench!
 
I'm no expert at all but I've always applied a small amount of blue LocTite to the screws to secure the scope base to the receiver. Can't see how it would hurt. And remember always shake the LocTite first before use . I always apply some PB Blaster and let it soak briefly before removing the screws.
 
I use VC3 Vibra-tite on all scope base and ring screws using a quality torque wrench to set the proper inch pound settings
https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlo...ble-threadlockers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/

Better than Loctite (IMO) as things stay put just as good but you can also remove and re-install a few times without having to clean up and re-apply.

---------- from website -----------
Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate is one of the most versatile threadlockers available on the market. An alternative to traditional liquid lockers which cure to form a hard bond, VC-3 is a blend of resins designed to remain flexible and absorb vibration. This unique difference makes VC-3 coated fasteners truly adjustable, removable, and reusable.
-----------------------------

George
 
I have always used lot loctite blue on base and ring screws but recently I sent a vortex scope that failed to hold zero after about a year back to vortex.
Vortex sent me a new scope recommending 15-18 inch lbs on the rings.
I called them and asked what caused the problem because I had used a torque wrench to insure the proper torque and loctite blue to lock the ring screws in place.
They said the paralax housing was dented and I should not have used the loctite because it lubricated the threads causing them to be tightened too much they recommend not using a thread locker.
If that is true I tested vibratite and it caused a lot more friction when driving the screws in and would that not result in not enough compression on the scope rings.
Amazing isn’t it how a simple procedure can get so complicated.
 
They do have a point, wet and dry thread torque are different. Wet torque force is going toward fastener elongation ( fastener tension). Dry torque force is used up in thread friction.
 
sunnyfisher said:
I have always used lot loctite blue on base and ring screws but recently I sent a vortex scope that failed to hold zero after about a year back to vortex.
Vortex sent me a new scope recommending 15-18 inch lbs on the rings.
I called them and asked what caused the problem because I had used a torque wrench to insure the proper torque and loctite blue to lock the ring screws in place.
They said the paralax housing was dented and I should not have used the loctite because it lubricated the threads causing them to be tightened too much they recommend not using a thread locker.
If that is true I tested vibratite and it caused a lot more friction when driving the screws in and would that not result in not enough compression on the scope rings.
Amazing isn’t it how a simple procedure can get so complicated.
Click to expand...
OR they could use a better quality tube. 18# is not going to dent a tube unless the rings are junk. 25# isn't either.
 
Dusty Stevens said:
I think the red is opposite. It seems to rust everything.
Click to expand...
Yes, red does rust. I always loctite bases wirh blue . However, you must clean out holes of
both shavings and oil plus make sure your screws are not going to bottem out. These things I routinley find when curing scope problems for others. I never loctite rings but I always put 1 layer of masking tape in the bottem half. Helps prevent ring marks and have never had a scope move in the rings doing this.
 
Larryh128 said:
OR they could use a better quality tube. 18# is not going to dent a tube unless the rings are junk. 25# isn't either.
Click to expand...
I considered the quality of the tube too, i would think it would be a high quality and thick enough to take some tension considering the fact that it was a golden eagle not exactly a cheapie.
 
LarryDScott said:
I use clear "HARD AS NAILS" finger nail polish.
It holds and the screw can be backed out w/o
any problems. Works for me for yrs. LDS
Click to expand...
I assume you use hard as nails on the threads and if this is a correct assumption would it not serve to lubricate the threads just as loctite which would cause the rings to compress the tube too much and also damage the parallax housing which as what vortex believes happened to my scope.
Don’t get me wrong, I love the vortex products and won’t hesitate to buy them again and their customer service is second to none.
 
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