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Rusty Chamber....again

3ED1FDFF-7B0B-45F9-8E1C-D8FBDBFF1B5B.jpeg I posted back in October about my Savage Model 10 with a rusty chamber. Sent it back to Savage, they cleaned it up, and sent it back.
Original Post
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/newer-savage-model-10-with-rusty-chamber.3962455/

It’s rusted again. I used Bore Tech Eliminator 1 time, made double sure all of it was cleaned out and oiled it really well. 2 weeks ago I did a weekend rifle shoot and the gun worked fine. I did clean the oil out before I shot it. Got back from the shoot and did not clean it because I wanted to leave it fowled. Went to the range last night and the bolt was difficult to open after my 1st couple shots. Looked in the chamber and sure as shit the chamber is rusted! I give up. I’m never using Bore Tech again. I’ll stick to Hopes as I’ve never had a problem with that. I have a dehumidifier in my safe. The ammo is factory Hornady ELDX.
 
Before I got to your last paragraph, I said to myself "Hmm, is this guy using Bore Tech Eliminator?"

Then I read your words "I used Bore Tech Eliminator". I guffawed.

I won't EVER use that stuff again. It got into some of our rimfire actions, rusted the bolt and trigger.

For most cleaning I use Wet patches with Carb-out, then WipeOut.

Surfaces are protected with Eezox spray or liquid on patch. I find Eezox to be VERY effective if you do a couple applications. Here's one long-term Salt test.

rustvideo03.jpg
 
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You gotta thoroughly clean Boretech out with (what I use) kroil or something similar.. I never had a problem like that, just don't think of Boretech as something that does well leaving it in your gun..


Ray
 
You have a dehumidifier in your safe? Where does the water go? If your safe or firearms are not in a controlled environment (basement, garage, outbuilding,etc.) the chances of rust increase.
 
Unlikely the case but Muratic acid creates an airborne gas that will rust jusg about anything. I spilled some in garage and fought rust for 2 years! If your storing with any chemicals in same room could be the cause.
 
I’m hearing this more and more recently. I currently use Eliminator and C4 in my rifles, and so far I’ve been lucky with no rust. Has anybody else been having problems with Boretech’s stuff? They claim it can be used as a short term protectant.
 
You have a dehumidifier in your safe? Where does the water go? If your safe or firearms are not in a controlled environment (basement, garage, outbuilding,etc.) the chances of rust increase.
The safe is in my house in a controlled temperature environment. I have 2 dehumidifiers, the type that you plug into the wall and I rotate them through the safe when needed. But, even if I had none of those things, I’ve got 20 other firearms of all kinds and none of them are rusted. I haven’t used Bore Tech on anything else because I just started using the stuff (because it’s supposed to be so great) and have only been shooting long range with my Savage.
 
No issues with C4, Eliminator, C2++. This is in SS barrels and actions however. I've never used it on CM steel though.
 
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I wouldn’t mind upgrading the barrel but the gun shoot sub MOA groups and the last thing I want is to “upgrade” and have the gun not shoot as well.
 
The ammo is factory Hornady ELDX
My first question is: what does your fired brass look like a week after firing?

My reason for asking. Unless you saturate a bore mop with Eliminator and swab your chamber, I think it might be the firing residue from Superformance powder causing the problem. If you use a bore guide, you shouldn't be getting Eliminator in contact with the full length of the chamber that your pic shows rusting. SOME powders just leave behind a chemical that reacts with brass badly. H110 always did on my magnum handgun brass. And more recently I used some Superformance in barrel break in loads on my 6mm Creedmoor using Lapua brass. Everything I fired with H4350 and RL16 looked fine a week later. But the 10 rounds I fired with Superformance had absolutely no shine and you couldn't see the anneal coloration any longer.

So before everyone drives a wooden stake into Eliminator's heart, you might want to check other possibilities.
 
Leave it fouled but still mop out chamber ?
I'll use bore tech but I clean it out with#9 or kroil.
In my cf kroil is great in small amounts.
In rf I won't use it ...it's to good and won't let the wax coat the barrel imo.
 
Leave it fouled but still mop out chamber ?
I'll use bore tech but I clean it out with#9 or kroil.
In my cf kroil is great in small amounts.
In rf I won't use it ...it's to good and won't let the wax coat the barrel imo.


I haven't had any Problem with the Boretech Eliminator. I have been using on Stainless Steel barrels and a few times on blued CM barrels- they still look good.

For rimfires I use Boretech Rimfire Blend (I have used this product for probably 8+ yrs) . I really like it as well.
 
I was breaking in a barrel, virgin brass, so a lot of cleaning involved (Eliminator)..got too where I was doing 5 shots per..cleaned barrel, went at it again, brass fell on a thick moving pad, cleaned again..during cleaning process went too pick up brass..it was sticky? Wiped them down, put back in case holder, got home and a few hrs. latter, I pulled the brass out..some had black spots and a few had my finger print on them? I'm sure I didn't get the rod guide fully seated (good O-ring). Put the bad ones in electric screwdriver, most of the ''black'' came off, but can still tell witch ones got Eliminator on them...My fault no doubt. Eliminator work's when Properly used.
 
I was breaking in a barrel, virgin brass, so a lot of cleaning involved (Eliminator)..got too where I was doing 5 shots per..cleaned barrel, went at it again, brass fell on a thick moving pad, cleaned again..during cleaning process went too pick up brass..it was sticky? Wiped them down, put back in case holder, got home and a few hrs. latter, I pulled the brass out..some had black spots and a few had my finger print on them? I'm sure I didn't get the rod guide fully seated (good O-ring). Put the bad ones in electric screwdriver, most of the ''black'' came off, but can still tell witch ones got Eliminator on them...My fault no doubt. Eliminator work's when Properly used.
It doesn't react well to copper and brass..lol

I have done the same


Ray
 
My first question is: what does your fired brass look like a week after firing?

My reason for asking. Unless you saturate a bore mop with Eliminator and swab your chamber, I think it might be the firing residue from Superformance powder causing the problem. If you use a bore guide, you shouldn't be getting Eliminator in contact with the full length of the chamber that your pic shows rusting. SOME powders just leave behind a chemical that reacts with brass badly. H110 always did on my magnum handgun brass. And more recently I used some Superformance in barrel break in loads on my 6mm Creedmoor using Lapua brass. Everything I fired with H4350 and RL16 looked fine a week later. But the 10 rounds I fired with Superformance had absolutely no shine and you couldn't see the anneal coloration any longer.

So before everyone drives a wooden stake into Eliminator's heart, you might want to check other possibilities.
The first time this happened I was using Federal ammo. I do use a bore guide so that is an interesting point.
 
Sometimes,rusty chambers can be caused by one's hands and fingers,some people have a lot of salt in their system,just handling rounds can cause rust.My oldest brother,i have to make sure i wipe off any firearm he handles,If i do not,they will usually start to form surface rust in 1-2 hours.Some kinds of steel, in some firearms are more prone to rust.When it gets stinking hot and one sweats a lot, IT's Something to watch for.The oils/fluids from ones hands
 
Summer is bad down here in Florida. A gun goes from the air conditioning, into the case , it on the hot car ,drive to the range , take the sweating gun out , clean and wipe it down , shoot , pack it back in the case ( wet or damp foam ) now 90 deg plus into the car AC , back home , wet gun out of case and start cleaning and drying everything.
 

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