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Do it yourself Stock making thread

Nice work guys, but please be careful using a drill press for milling. Most of them use a morse or jacobs taper to hold the chuck on. Under side loading like milling they can come loose then you have a spinning chuck with an endmill in your shorts. Just be careful.
 
Genuine question.

Whats the difference between a MT fitting/tooling on a Drill press and an MT setup on a Drill/Mill?

Im keenly looking into buying a Drill press like the below.

https://www.carbatec.com.au/drilling-and-boring/pedestal-drill-press-12-speed-old-code-dp-4119f

but...Id like to use it to start milling as well and have been considering one of these machines from Seig.

https://www.ausee.com.au/shop/item.aspx?itemid=3811

They are about double the price but hell of a different capability it seems
 
Genuine question.

Whats the difference between a MT fitting/tooling on a Drill press and an MT setup on a Drill/Mill?

Im keenly looking into buying a Drill press like the below.

https://www.carbatec.com.au/drilling-and-boring/pedestal-drill-press-12-speed-old-code-dp-4119f

but...Id like to use it to start milling as well and have been considering one of these machines from Seig.

https://www.ausee.com.au/shop/item.aspx?itemid=3811

They are about double the price but hell of a different capability it seems
The drill press MT is press fit in. The MT on a mill/drill is held in by friction and a draw bar that screws onto the end of the collet and keeps it from coming loose under side load.
 
Nice work guys, but please be careful using a drill press for milling. Most of them use a morse or jacobs taper to hold the chuck on. Under side loading like milling they can come loose then you have a spinning chuck with an endmill in your shorts. Just be careful.

I know what showing is not the best, I take my sweet time to minimize the radial loading on the chuck. Each pass when I am "milling" the sketchy way...maybe a 1/16"-1/8" depth. I use it mostly for vertical drilling like the drill press is designed for, then clean up the edges of the drill holes very carefully.

I also have a MT2 ER25 collet system in the works and am adding a draw bar to the spindle to help strenghten the connection to the spindle instead of being purely a friction press fit.
 
Genuine question.

Whats the difference between a MT fitting/tooling on a Drill press and an MT setup on a Drill/Mill?

Im keenly looking into buying a Drill press like the below.

https://www.carbatec.com.au/drilling-and-boring/pedestal-drill-press-12-speed-old-code-dp-4119f

but...Id like to use it to start milling as well and have been considering one of these machines from Seig.

https://www.ausee.com.au/shop/item.aspx?itemid=3811

They are about double the price but hell of a different capability it seems

GunmanBlue,

For the cost of the Seig, you may want to consider
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Mill-Drill-with-Stand/G0704

It has a lot more table space and travel, as well as having an R8 spindle taper which offers much more tool options. I am pouring a concrete slab and extending my shop to have the space and floor suitable for it
 
That machine from Grizzly certainly looks like the goods and a step up from the Sieg machine.

I forgot to mention that im in Australia. I cant find the Grizzly machines locally although im going to give a mate a call who might be able to tell me if they are brought in under a different name as can often happen with machines here.

The Sieg machine works out to be approx $750 USD vs the Grizzly at $1500 USD which is a bit beyond my budget unfortunately. But I appreciate the advice/options!
 
Josh,

I have been crawling my way through your process and i know its been said plenty in this thread but, thanks for your hard work. Moments were id be absolutely lost and kicking shit around the workshop and id be able to refer to your pics and get on track again.

Cheers mate.


Also,

In response to milling above. I bought a decent drill press and in combination with some good forstner bits I havent actually found the need to go beyond conventional drilling, scraping and carving. Watch me regret not getting a drill/mill by this time next year.....
 
No worries! You are very welcome. I’ve learned a lot here and wanted to “give back” as best I could. I know that milling machines are expensive. That’s why I used routers in my thread. If a guy is careful, they can be accurate enough to do the job and they’re fairly cheap to buy.
If you get into a bind, just send me a PM and I’ll get you back on track.
Josh:)
 
I know it was mentioned on here before but it cant seem to find it.

What size and type of bit are you using to do you barrel channel and action inletting?
 
I know it was mentioned on here before but it cant seem to find it.

What size and type of bit are you using to do you barrel channel and action inletting?

The type of bit is called a "Box Core" bit, I prefer the 1/2" shank. I have a few box core bits 1-3/8" & 1-1/4" dia for action inlet. Then I have 1/2" dia to 1" dia box core bits for the barrel channel

Hope this helps
 
I do the same. 1/2” shank. I did a google search and found them. I like the longer sided bits. I’m sure I mentioned a source in my thread. Eagle America?
Here ya go. Google “Whiteside corebox bits” I also buy Amana.
AC0A56E4-E416-4E87-A7BE-C435C525D9ED.png
 
Man, you guys and your power tools, lol! This time last year I would be all about using every single power tool I had available to do this, but after the divorce, new house not having a garage and then pretty much my entire shops worth of equipment being stolen from my storage unit, its felt good to know that I can go back to hammers, chisels, sandpaper, planes and files. Try one by hand, I dare you! Lol!

Love this thread, will update with my BR stock mods as I go along, entirely by hand...
 
Is there a rule of thumb or standard on ho deep to set the action into the stock? I was thinking half the action but could be wrong?

Thanks
 
Man, you guys and your power tools, lol! This time last year I would be all about using every single power tool I had available to do this, but after the divorce, new house not having a garage and then pretty much my entire shops worth of equipment being stolen from my storage unit, its felt good to know that I can go back to hammers, chisels, sandpaper, planes and files. Try one by hand, I dare you! Lol!

Love this thread, will update with my BR stock mods as I go along, entirely by hand...

Sorry to hear about that. Keep your head up mate.

How about a great excuse to buy new tools though!

About hand tools. My hand gouges are the most dangerous thing in my shop by a mile. Ill stick with the router and Josh's box jig technique as its safer for me my tools and anyone within 10meters....
 
Is there a rule of thumb or standard on ho deep to set the action into the stock? I was thinking half the action but could be wrong?

Thanks

I go 3/4”. That leaves a little wood on top in case it gets dinged during the process.
 
Is there a rule of thumb or standard on ho deep to set the action into the stock? I was thinking half the action but could be wrong?

Thanks

If you're going to bed it, be sure it is no more than half way (when finished) or you will mechanically lock the action into the stock!
 
Man, you guys and your power tools, lol! This time last year I would be all about using every single power tool I had available to do this, but after the divorce, new house not having a garage and then pretty much my entire shops worth of equipment being stolen from my storage unit, its felt good to know that I can go back to hammers, chisels, sandpaper, planes and files. Try one by hand, I dare you! Lol!

Love this thread, will update with my BR stock mods as I go along, entirely by hand...

I'm building this one with out electricity except for overhead lights.DSCF3599 (2).JPG
 

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