Barrel/Action/Bolt fixture

[Dusty Stevens]

I make my own copper tips from copper wire epoxied in. Once it wears out i just pop some new ones in. I roll the wire on a flat table under a piece of wood to straighten it out.

 

[Ksmirk]

My thinking on the 1/2-13 was that the fixture being Aluminum the courser thread might hold better but honestly it's not like they will have a ton of torque, no chips have been made yet so that's an easy change to 1/2-20 but I see your point.

Copper tipped never really thought about going that direction! my family are Electricians so I'll bet I can come up with some #4 copper

On the hole spacing do you think I would run into any issues? changing threads is not an issue but if I put them in the wrong spot well. Thanks,

Kirk

 

[GenePoole]

I took my spacing from the Viper fixture. They are on 2 inch centers and start 0.5 inches from the end so 0.5, 2.5, and 4.5. I didn't need the extra on the chuck end of the fixture so I never measured it, just left enough to clear my spindle.

 

[McFred]

For barrel work, at least, you should have the spacing as far apart as you can manage. You get finer control of adjustments with greater spacing. I concur with Butch that fine pitch set screws (at least on the right hand side) make indicating in the barrel/receiver easier than 1/2-13s.

 

[butchlambert]

I make my own copper tips from copper wire epoxied in. Once it wears out i just pop some new ones in. I roll the wire on a flat table under a piece of wood to straighten it out.

Dusty, I bought copper ground rod from McMaster Carr. It will make a lot of tips.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Dusty, I bought copper ground rod from McMaster Carr. It will make a lot of tips.

My dad was the plant manager at a cable plant. I could get it any size and annealed at any hardness. I dont have much left of the size i use so ill check there. A couple feet will go a long way

 

[DaveTooley]

I don't have a picture of this setup but it's easy to visualize. I use a 5" 3 jaw chuck,plain back, to hold the bolt. I reverse the jaws on my 8" 3 jaw on the lathe. I can then hold the 5" chuck with the bolt, bolt handle still on, and work on it. To get comfortable with this setup I used a 1/2" drill blank to check axial alignment and did several setups until I was confident in the setup. I found the use of a dead blow hammer helped seat the 5" chuck against the face of the 8" chuck.

 

[Ksmirk]

Guys there’s a wealth of information.... thanks you!

GenePoole do you see where there may be a problem with my bolt hole locations? this is all in my mind and relying on drawings from who knows, i don’t have a mess of actions at the house to slap a scale on and honestly the only one I think may be a problem would be a Rem SA. I was trying to go with the locations as far apart as I could like McFred mentioned be able to get things as far apart as possible.

I’m at my folks so I’m going to go digging in the wire pile for some copper and might run into town to see if I can find any 1/2-20 set screws thanks and everyone have a wonderful Easter.

Kirk

 

[Ksmirk]

Well I finally got some work done and from what I was suggested here and thoughts in my mind here's what I came up with. The set screws are 1" with .125" of copper sticking out, I've yet to give it a go yet but I think this is going to work wonderfully! guys thanks for the pointers I appreciate it!

Kirk

 

[hogpatrol]

Looks good!

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Nice work for sure!!

 

[Ksmirk]

Thank ya fella's! I can't take all the credit, I don't have a mill so a buddy of mine who has a shop milled the flats and slot for me and got to visit an old friend who anodized it. I've got high hopes for sure. Thanks for the kind words.

Kirk

 

[Dave in WI]

Where did you get the set screws?
Edited to add: should have read the whole thread....

 

[GenePoole]

I don't know about Kirk, but I got mine from McMaster Carr

 

[Ksmirk]

I was going to order from McMaster when I got the copper rod and endmill but I had some at work so I snagged a few I never found any copper tipped set screws but they are not to much of a pain to make. My biggest thing was I didn't want the screws sticking out of the fixture and I guess it's true a blind hog will find an acorn every now and again lol

Kirk

 

[boltman223]

You could use something like this. Fully adjustable for alignment with the spindle.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

You could use something like this. Fully adjustable for alignment with the spindle.

Few questions here- im just asking.
What does that do that the 4 jaw holding it doesnt do? How do you true the outboard end? How does it grip a tapered barrel?

 

[boltman223]

You could use something like this. Fully adjustable for alignment with the spindle.

I apologize I came in late with a suggestion, I didn't realize you had made a fixture already.

 

[boltman223]

Few questions here- im just asking.
What does that do that the 4 jaw holding it doesnt do? How do you true the outboard end? How does it grip a tapered barrel?

The angular alignment is done with the four jacking screws on the face of the fixture. They are the four screws with the smaller bolt hole pattern. And, the four jaw does the radial alignment.

For holding a taper I have made bushings that match the taper of the barrel and allow the clamping force to transfer to the barrel. Also, most shanks I have been long enough for me to hold on to with the collet and still turn and thread.

I still hold the the outboard of the barrel with a "spider" to keep it from whipping around.

 

[boltman223]

The angular alignment is done with the four jacking screws on the face of the fixture. They are the four screws with the smaller bolt hole pattern. And, the four jaw does the radial alignment.

For holding a taper I have made bushings that match the taper of the barrel and allow the clamping force to transfer to the barrel. Also, most shanks I have been long enough for me to hold on to with the collet and still turn and thread.

I still hold the the outboard of the barrel with a "spider" to keep it from whipping around.

Also with this fixture it is beneficial for the use with truing actions. There is no worry of bending or distorting the action. And, it is not nearly as delicate of a setups as others use for holding receiver's. There is also an increase in rigidity.