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10/22 reciever pinning

Hey,
I just had an idea that I was wondering if anyone had tried before. I'm thinking of using the back trigger pin as a stock anchor point by drilling a hole through my stock then using a long pin through the stock, receiver, and trigger group. I was thinking this would give a good rear lockup point so you could have two points of contact with the stock to aid repeatability and maybe accuracy.

Does anyone have any experience or know of anyone who's done it before? What would you think any potential benefits would be? Would it be worth the trouble (doesn't seem too hard to do in theory)?

Thanks
 
I have done this with a couple of my 10-22's. But I put heli coils in the receiver and counter head torque screws through the stock, I put shims on the inside of the stock to center the action in the stock and give the screws something to tighten against.
 
I have done this with a couple of my 10-22's. But I put heli coils in the receiver and counter head torque screws through the stock, I put shims on the inside of the stock to center the action in the stock and give the screws something to tighten against.
how did they perform after you modified them?
 
yeah, I'm aware of the kidd rear tang stuff but that would involve buying a new reciever and stuff. I'm more interested in experimenting with what I have first and seeing if there's any merit to that first. Also, it would be much easier to drill two small holes in most 10/22 stocks then to inlet for a rear tang reciever (yes, I know there are stocks that come with the rear tang inlet option too).
 
I know what you're talking about OP. Actually read an article or post on RFC about the same thing several years ago. I tried to find it again but couldn't.

If I remember correctly it does work well as a rear hold down.
 
No experience here with rear pinning, but I recall reading once that the most accurate stock connection on these was floating barrel AND action. then bedding around the stock screw and 1" of chamber/barrel.

Go for it and find out. I'd probably use a brass pin. It's easily reversed if you don't like it.
 
I know what you're talking about OP. Actually read an article or post on RFC about the same thing several years ago. I tried to find it again but couldn't.

If I remember correctly it does work well as a rear hold down.
Thanks Hacker, I'll take a look too and see if I can find anything
 
No experience here with rear pinning, but I recall reading once that the most accurate stock connection on these was floating barrel AND action. then bedding around the stock screw and 1" of chamber/barrel.

Go for it and find out. I'd probably use a brass pin. It's easily reversed if you don't like it.
haha maybe I should just make a barrel block then (seems like more work:p). The trend with all the custom reciever makes is adding a rear stock attachment point so it seems like that thinking has won out.

...and like you said it's easily reversed
 
There's a thread on Rimfire Central where a guy did pretty much the same thing, except that he pinned the action at both pin holes. He used binder posts, which I thought was a novel idea. It's under 10/22 Tips.
 
There's a thread on Rimfire Central where a guy did pretty much the same thing, except that he pinned the action at both pin holes. He used binder posts, which I thought was a novel idea. It's under 10/22 Tips.

Hey, I've been looking for that article but can't seem to find it. If you get a chance do you think you could post a link to it? Thanks
 
KIDD also makes a rear tang that you can add on to the receiver that provides a rear hold down. I think this would provide the OP with a second action bolt to stabilize the chassis in the stock without having to modify the trigger pin assembly.

https://www.coolguyguns.com/Kidd-Aftermarket-Receiver-Rear-Tang-Attachment_p_105.html

Thanks for the advise, I've seen this before and was looking for something that wouldn't require much machining to the reciever.

I realize the post about the binder clicks also requires machining but I was originally just looking for some way to support the rear with the tigger pin holes.

Still haven't seen anything with actual before and after pictures. I'll try this out as a summer project and try to make a report about it.
 

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