just starting out, planning to reload .308

[DeltaWhiskey64068]

So I made an investment in a Bergara B-14 HMR 20" .308 1:10 twist and I want to learn reloading. Not new to firearms, but definitely new to reloading. My goal would be to successfully hand load match grade rounds. I want this to be a slow methodical approach to get each round as close to identical as possible. Based on much research, I have decided on a Rockchucker Supreme single stage press. I found the press only for $115.00 new in box locally, or Optics planet has the supreme reloading kit for $294.29 shipped. I am unsure if the components in the kit are worth the extra money, or if I should build the kit based on suggestions to help reach the stated goal. I have the Lyman 50th manual arriving today. Thanks for your input!

 

[dgeesaman]

I started out with that kit. I still regularly use the press and the primer tool. I used the scale for a while too. I think I've seen it on sale as low as $250.

I ended up replacing the universal loading block and universal powder funnel with caliber specific ones from Frankford Arsenal and Satern respectively. I also bought an RCBS Chargemaster Lite for measuring powder and it's a nice unit.

So I suppose I should not have bought the kit. Never used the powder measure or case lube pad.

I also recommend a Hornady headspace comparator and bullet comparator to go with a decent quality dial calipers.

.308 is a very well documented round so the Lyman manual should give you plenty to get going. If you're shooting long range (300-1000y) then you should also invest in more advanced powder weight measuring tools and a chronograph.

Oh and wind flags. It's not very productive to develop loads if the wind is screwing with the results and you don't know it's happening.

David

 

[K22]

Varget, IMR 4964 and IMR / H 4895 are powders I've had a lot of success with loading the 308 for bullets in the range of 125 to 165 grains.

Good news - you picked one of the most inherently accurate cartridges available although I wouldn't want to shoot this cartridge a lot in a lightweight rifle because of the recoil. Fine for hunting but for sustained target shooting I would prefer a heavy rifle.

The Lyman Manual is one of the best in my opinion.

The problem with kits is that you can't always pick the optimum tool but it's not a bad way to go to get started. However if you plan to be into it for the long haul you might want to research alternative individual equipment items that perform better than those often provided in kits.

Nothing wrong with a single stage press, I've used one for almost 50 years along with standard RCBS dies for precision reloading.

I use the Sinclair Hand Priming Tool and the Wilson Case Trimmer with the Sinclair upgrades - excellent tools for precision reloading and will last a life time.

Too bad they don't make the Ohaus 10-10 scale anymore - I don't much like the current beam balances but if I had to pick one I'd try the Redding or Lyman - read the Customer Reviews before you purchase. I have no user knowledge of electronic scales.

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions on this web site - there are some real knowledgeable guys on this site that can help you get started in the right direction.

 

[Homerange]

Not much point trying to find a match grade load for a rifle with a 20" barrel but having said that it's not at all hard to make better rounds that can be bought even with cheap brass and bullets.
For such a rifle I'd focus on cheap 130 or 150 gr hunting bullets as either has the capability to shoot well and deal to all but the biggest of deer at extended ranges. If you do your bit close to 1/2" groups is quite possible. Varget (ADI 2208) for powder.

 

[Richard Coody]

Get you some berger 168 gr hybrids, varget, cci br2's.

Start at mag length if its a repeater. Run the berger seating test when you find a load you like.

Start around 43 gr. Varget and work up to 44 in .3 gr increments. 44 gr varget is a classic load with 168's. Good out to 600 yrds

If you want to go with heavier bullets for long range you will have to look for more advice. I hunt with a 308 but don't use one for a range toy.

 

[JSH]

I won’t knock the 20” barrel at all, my 308 is a pistol with a 15” barrel. It likes the same load I use in my F class Savage.

I won’t go into what I or others have done with their short barreled rigs, as a man said “it ain’t bragging if you can do it”.

Yes you will loose some speed, but not enough to say it won’t make it to 5-600 easily.

 

[Fast14riot]

Good measurement tools will help you tremendously. Calipers, scale, maybe a 0-1" mic. No matter what you're doing, if you can trust the qualification you cant ever trust the results. Learning what to measure when and where will get you really far. For instance, my $400 Redding competition die set, mu sizing die is too long for my chamber. When I body size brass on a standard shell holder, the brass gets longer with solid cam over on the press. I checked with feeler gauges then lapped a shell holder down and I now bump shoulders back .002" easily with zero hard chambering. Do not trust your dies to perfectly match your chamber or be optimised for your brass.

 

[AJC]

Save money on a fancy press and get widden or redding competition dies. A good die set makes good ammo and does not need to be upgraded. A good scale can be used for a lot of checks and will always have a spot on your bench. Now imo mechanical calipers are better because 1. They are cheaper for the same quality and 2. Are not nearly as often fake copies. Used micrometers are a lot cheaper on Ebay. Get a standard to check your measurement tools. .25 and .5 are great for reloading checks.

 

[DennisH]

I have a RCBS press, and 2 lee presses (depriming mostly), and a small RCBS press. I bought the kit, but as many stated above, I don't use several items included with the kit, but it was cheap enough to buy.

I purchases a RCBS powder despensor (best thing I have ever done), plus I have a variety of dies. Concentricity is the major issue (with me), plus accurate seating depth, a good primer installer (many opinions on this subject), I have a Giruad Trimmer (the best when trimming hundreds of rounds), plus I have a prep station, RCBS. I had a Bench Source Annealer, but with a little experience, you can get by with only spending $25 to accomplish the same results. I have an UltraSonic Cleaner, and only use it in severe cases, otherwise I tumble my brass.

This about sums everything up. Consistency is your best friend no-matter what tools you are using.

When seating bullets for a match, I always use my "Wilson" Seater Die. It's just a personal thing with me, but RCBS, Forester, and Redding make GREAT seating dies.

JMO, Dennis

 

[Richard Coody]

So I made an investment in a Bergara B-14 HMR 20" .308 and I want to learn reloading. Not new to firearms, but definitely new to reloading. My goal would be to successfully hand load match grade rounds. I want this to be a slow methodical approach to get each round as close to identical as possible. Based on much research, I have decided on a Rockchucker Supreme single stage press. I found the press only for $115.00 new in box locally, or Optics planet has the supreme reloading kit for $294.29 shipped. I am unsure if the components in the kit are worth the extra money, or if I should build the kit based on suggestions to help reach the stated goal. I have the Lyman 50th manual arriving today. Thanks for your input!

Don't buy the kit. If you are going to try to produce match grade ammo you will soon replace everything in it.

First step is accurate powder measurements. For all the next steps to fall in place this is a must. Lot of ways to accomplish this. If you are not in a hurry a quality beam scale can be had very economically. To the other extreme adams autotrickler system will dispense powder charges accurate to .02 grains in about 10 sec.

Don't cheap out on components. 100 pieces of lapua brass will last a long time with a 308. Buy berger bullets for match grain loads. There is a difference.

You can buy more expensive dies but the foster benchrest full length sizer and seater set will serve you well.

If you are going to single load match rounds then i would start load development with berger hybrids jammed about 10 or 20 thousandths and work out. I find the hybrids like about 5 or 10 thousandth jump but every barrel is different. Now the vld's like a jam but every barrel is different.

You are starting on a long and exciting journey. I will be curious to see just how far down the rabbit hole you go.

 

[Texas10]

Before you drop a ton of coin on reloading equipment, you might want to try some Federal Gold Medal 168 SMK and 175 SMK ammo. Priced at just over a buck a round, you'll have to hand load a crap ton of ammo before you'll recoup your investment, and that return only starts after you've perfected your loading skills, something few are willing to include in their cost/benefit calculations.

There are a lot of little details involved in making match grade ammo, not everyone can do it. Although you've picked the 308 Win, perhaps one of the easiest to make work well, it's still going to be a challenge. I'm not trying dissuade you, just adding some reality to the equation. If you're the type that is naturally curious and a skilled craftsman, reloading will add immeasurably to your enjoyment of this hobby. And if that's your motive, you're certainly making the right choice.

 

[DennisH]

PS: I find the 308 is the easiest caliber to dial in a load. I currently have 5 of them, and love them. All are 10 twist. The love the 155.5 Bergers all the way up to 190 VLD Bergers!

I love shooting the 185 Berger Bullets @ 600 yards (I have tried them all). I love the Forester Dies, also the Redding, the the RCBS Gold Metal Match dies, in this order. All are good. I also use Wilson seater dies.

I find VLD Berger Bullets like to kiss the lands, or be in the lands up to .020. The Hybirds like to either kiss the lands, or like being .020 off.

I also have great accuracy with SMK 168's (.015 off lands) using Varget Powder. Awesome in all my 308's. 4895 is also a great powder.

Your barrel/rifle will tell you what it likes. The 20" barrel will work well for you. I always test at 200 yards developing loads, then move to 600 yards. I rarely if "ever" changed anything with the load going from 200 to 600 yards other than my MOA.

"Trigger Time" and maintaining the exact shooting position was my best friend! Being almost 100% consistent pulling the trigger every time is one of your best assets. Loading your bullets is just as important, being consistent. I measure "every" bullet for a Match, and it's less than .020 with every measurement. YES, I use tweasers charging the brass with my favorite powder, plus a Jewelers LED Scale. I trim my necks after every 3 shot.

I am sure you have a shooter, and it should not be a problem finding a load your rifle likes. Patience is also your best friend.

JMO, Dennis

 

[HTSmith]

I agree with an earlier poster that trying some Federal GMM w/ either 168 or 175 Gr Sierra's would be a good first order of business. I've seen more than one 308 shoot these into 0.5 MOA. This will give you a good idea of what to expect and give you a supply of brass to reload. With good quality dies, a good scale, and tooling to accurately measure base-to-ogive and base to shoulder datum (Hornady or Sinclair); you'll be in business. I may be the Lone Ranger here, but I don't see the press selection as the most important thing--but the Rockchucker should do the trick. While you didn't ask about bullets, I would advise starting with Sierra Matchkings as they are easier to tune (seating depth) at least in my experience. Then try the Bergers after you get some experience under your belt.

 

[DeltaWhiskey64068]

So much to learn! Yes, this will be an adventure, but I accept the challenge. I appreciate all of the recommendations, and I will move forward with the press only vs the kit. I picked up a wet tumbler cheap on the swap n shop, as well as a hand de-primer. I will look into all of the items recommended here, and thanks for helping out!

 

[SGK]

Get you some berger 168 gr hybrids, varget, cci br2's.

Start at mag length if its a repeater. Run the berger seating test when you find a load you like.

Start around 43 gr. Varget and work up to 44 in .3 gr increments. 44 gr varget is a classic load with 168's. Good out to 600 yrds

Just note the Berger manual has a max listed charge for Varget and that bullet of 42.5 gr. So care is needed. (Richard has just given me greater confidence as I test up from 42.50 gr to 43.90 gr watching for signs of excess pressure. I'm chicken and going in 0.2gr increments.)

As someone who started this stuff a year ago I understand the temptation to have shiny brass. I bought the Franford Arsenal stainless steel media tumbler but now find I don't bother cleaning brass. Once you get over that you find that you aren't in a rush to deprime separately and can do that when sizing with your sizing die. In contrast a hand priming tool is very useful. (I have the Forster Coax press which can prime but I have never used it for such. See below.) Focus on good callipers, comparators, trimmer, dies etc. I use the Forster Datum dial kit a lot. I would very much recommend the Whidden click adjustable FL sizing die (don't bother with neck sizing only) which comes with a comparator tool. Take your time researching components. There are some pieces of equipment which just remove a lot of hassle and the click adjustable die is one of those (as is an Autotrickler but that's decent cost). I have a bunch of stuff I have either never used or used just a few times after which it got upgraded. (For example, Redding 308 neck sizing die 'n body die, Redding scale and powder trickler, brass tumbler, Lee depriming die, Hornady OAL gauge - useless IMHO.) Also, think about where you are going to work. I live in south Florida and it can get as hot as hell in my garage so having tools I can use at a desk inside is useful (leaving only sizing at the press in the garage). Lastly, think about the hassle of going to/from a range and whether you want to set yourself up to load (essentially just seat bullets) at the range. It can save a ton of time. To seat at the range you need an arbor press and different seating die than with a conventional press. While the thought of buying an arbor press alongside your conventional one may seem expensive if you don't have close access to the range you'll recoup it in gas/travel time in short order. I wish I had one.

 

[SGK]

One other thought, having taken a good deal of time to figure out your desired equipment listing prior to jumping in with purchases (1), don't be afraid to post a wanted advert in the forums here. A lot of people have good stuff they no longer need for one reason or another.


(1) right down your entire reloading workflow and to the right of each step list the needed/desired equipment with estimated costs. (On the right you might have minimum equipment versus desired.) Think on it. Revise both sides of the list. Think on it again. You can shoot the factory ammo in the meantime. Most tools will last a lifetime if cared for. What's hard to account for is the stuff you buy and then never or rarely use.

Oh and wind flags. It's not very productive to develop loads if the wind is screwing with the results and you don't know it's happening.

And a good rest. Nothing worse than wondering if it was you/poor hold that pulled the shot, the wind or the load. Quick path to insanity.

 

[mikeinct]

Welcome to the Forum. Before you buy anything. I'd ask someone here to show you how it is done. Maybe someone in or near your Zip code can invite you over. Good Luck, mike in ct

 

[Ned Ludd]

I initially purchased the Rockchucker kit. Except for the press, most all of it sits in a drawer; the round plastic primer tray is about all I use of the "extras" that came with it. Some people might use some of it (i.e. funnels, etc.) but I already had other types I liked better. Just purchasing the press itself will save you some money.

In addition to the press, you'll need a few other items to get started:

1) You'll want a good set of calipers and a caliber-specific insert for them; I'd also include a case shoulder insert.

2) You'll want a means to measure the distance to touching the lands. I much prefer the Hornady OAL gauge, but everyone has their own preference.

3) You'll need some type of a balance to weigh powder charges. This is where you can spend anywhere from a little (inexpensive electronic or beam balance) to a lot (laboratory analytical balance). I would recommend that you spend as much as you can reasonably afford to buy the best powder weighing setup you can (i.e. this is not a good place to go cheap).

4) You'll need a die set, I prefer the Redding type S Match Die sets, but again, everyone has their preference. If you go with a bushing die, you'll need a few different sized bushings to get started as well. I'd recommend 0.337", 0.336", 0.335" bushings to begin with for .308 Win. Get stainless steel initially, they're cheaper. If you want to upgrade to titanium nitride, do it later when you know the exact diameter bushing you'll need.

5) You'll also need some loading trays and ammo boxes. I use the Frankford Arsenal plastic reloading trays, but there are many choices that will all work well. I prefer the MTM 100-count .308 ammo boxes, but again - many choices available.

6) You'll need some method to clean brass. I prefer the Thumler's tumbler with SS pins, but there are many options.

7) You'll also need some tools to uniform primer pockets and/or chamfer case necks. Lyman sells a nice little kit with several tools in it. They also make a little case prep work station that would make a nice addition to doing it all by hand.

8) Finally, buy at least one reloading manual, if you don't already own one. They are available from most bullet manufacturers and can be a useful resource.

There are many other specific-use items you can add to your setup as time goes on, but that aren't essential to get started. Add them as needed/desired.

Best of luck!

 

[Richard Coody]

Just note the Berger manual has a max listed charge for Varget and that bullet of 42.5 gr. So care is needed. (Richard has just given me greater confidence as I test up from 42.50 gr to 43.90 gr watching for signs of excess pressure. I'm chicken and going in 0.2gr increments.)

As someone who started this stuff a year ago I understand the temptation to have shiny brass. I bought the Franford Arsenal stainless steel media tumbler but now find I don't bother cleaning brass. Once you get over that you find that you aren't in a rush to deprime separately and can do that when sizing with your sizing die. In contrast a hand priming tool is very useful. (I have the Forster Coax press which can prime but I have never used it for such. See below.) Focus on good callipers, comparators, trimmer, dies etc. I use the Forster Datum dial kit a lot. I would very much recommend the Whidden click adjustable FL sizing die (don't bother with neck sizing only) which comes with a comparator tool. Take your time researching components. There are some pieces of equipment which just remove a lot of hassle and the click adjustable die is one of those (as is an Autotrickler but that's decent cost). I have a bunch of stuff I have either never used or used just a few times after which it got upgraded. (For example, Redding 308 neck sizing die 'n body die, Redding scale and powder trickler, brass tumbler, Lee depriming die, Hornady OAL gauge - useless IMHO.) Also, think about where you are going to work. I live in south Florida and it can get as hot as hell in my garage so having tools I can use at a desk inside is useful (leaving only sizing at the press in the garage). Lastly, think about the hassle of going to/from a range and whether you want to set yourself up to load (essentially just seat bullets) at the range. It can save a ton of time. To seat at the range you need an arbor press and different seating die than with a conventional press. While the thought of buying an arbor press alongside your conventional one may seem expensive if you don't have close access to the range you'll recoup it in gas/travel time in short order. I wish I had one.

Descression is al

Just note the Berger manual has a max listed charge for Varget and that bullet of 42.5 gr. So care is needed. (Richard has just given me greater confidence as I test up from 42.50 gr to 43.90 gr watching for signs of excess pressure. I'm chicken and going in 0.2gr increments.)

As someone who started this stuff a year ago I understand the temptation to have shiny brass. I bought the Franford Arsenal stainless steel media tumbler but now find I don't bother cleaning brass. Once you get over that you find that you aren't in a rush to deprime separately and can do that when sizing with your sizing die. In contrast a hand priming tool is very useful. (I have the Forster Coax press which can prime but I have never used it for such. See below.) Focus on good callipers, comparators, trimmer, dies etc. I use the Forster Datum dial kit a lot. I would very much recommend the Whidden click adjustable FL sizing die (don't bother with neck sizing only) which comes with a comparator tool. Take your time researching components. There are some pieces of equipment which just remove a lot of hassle and the click adjustable die is one of those (as is an Autotrickler but that's decent cost). I have a bunch of stuff I have either never used or used just a few times after which it got upgraded. (For example, Redding 308 neck sizing die 'n body die, Redding scale and powder trickler, brass tumbler, Lee depriming die, Hornady OAL gauge - useless IMHO.) Also, think about where you are going to work. I live in south Florida and it can get as hot as hell in my garage so having tools I can use at a desk inside is useful (leaving only sizing at the press in the garage). Lastly, think about the hassle of going to/from a range and whether you want to set yourself up to load (essentially just seat bullets) at the range. It can save a ton of time. To seat at the range you need an arbor press and different seating die than with a conventional press. While the thought of buying an arbor press alongside your conventional one may seem expensive if you don't have close access to the range you'll recoup it in gas/travel time in short order. I wish I had one.

Descression is the better part of valor. I agree with playing it safe.

Just for me i have learned that where i want to be is near max for my rifle. I usually start midpoint or a little higher than that. Hate wasting a lot of components in the range i never want to be. Not a max guy at all. Too hard on brass. But i want to know where max is for that barrel.

Here is another load data link by hogdon. Maybe their load data can set your mind at ease

https://www.hodgdonreloading.com

 

[dgeesaman]

6) You'll need some method to clean brass. I prefer the Thumler's tumbler with SS pins, but there are many options.

I don't think this is a necessity as much as a popular option.