I have a EC tuner installed on a rifle but to get the tuner set to 0 I have to have it about 3/4 of a turn out. I have a load worked up for it and now want to test the tuner. My question is do I start tuning by going back in or by going further out ? I'm expecting the answer is both ways, but which way would you choose first?
For the tuner experts
- Thread starter Elwood
- Start date
This has been hammered on lately. Consider: 1)what setting were you on when you worked up the load ? 2) are you satisfied you are on a good node ? 3) what is the shape of your group now ? 4) do you want to shape that group to add in a little vertical for positive compensation at a given distance 5) when you turn the tuner, would you like the POI to remain constant ? Most say there will be at least a couple good numbers per revolution. Some might say one particular revolution across the spectrum will best meet your criteria. Ultimately, you have to turn the crank and see for yourself.
Don’t be concerned about where you start, starting with 1 full turn out will work fine. To conserve ammo, my sugestion is to next shoot 2 shot groups to find the best spot for the initial tune. Next, to get your final tune tweak the tuner in small increments a max of 1/4” in each direction. All tuners can work, some are easier to adjust and lock in place.
Ben
Ben
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Start with it 2 turns out it just doesnt really matter the pattern will repeat
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Sure. Turn it 13 turns out it does the same thing. It just repeats itself every rotation
Ned Ludd
Silver $$ Contributor
Erik suggests to start load development with the tuner tightened all the way down (i.e. set on "0"). Carry out your charge weight and seating depth testing with the tuner set on "0". Once you have your final load, set the tuner by shooting 3 shot groups, rotating it out 2 increments at a time per group until you have covered [at least] one full turn (25 increments on the EC tuner). If desired, you can re-test the "optimal" region in smaller increments.
If your tuner won't index all the way down to "0" when fully screwed in, you can always have your smith cut the shoulder a little more so it indexes properly. However, as long as you record the specific tuner settings for each group including your start/end points, it won't really matter, whatever number yours happens to be set on when fully tightened is simply a reference point.
If your tuner won't index all the way down to "0" when fully screwed in, you can always have your smith cut the shoulder a little more so it indexes properly. However, as long as you record the specific tuner settings for each group including your start/end points, it won't really matter, whatever number yours happens to be set on when fully tightened is simply a reference point.
No he doesn't. If you do that you only have one way to go. Re-read his instructions. dedogs
pm sent
avidflyer
Gold $$ Contributor
Not that it matters was told by Mike also to start a turn or two out...
Fwiw, I run my tuner all the way in and then back out a half to a full turn, bringing whatever number you like to the top. I use zero as my starting spot. I never run the tuner bottomed out and but I do prefer it to be within about a turn of bottom. My instructions say 1/2- 1 turn from bottom.
This is how I feel is best and for my tuner.
Other makers may have a different view for their products. --Mike Ezell
This is how I feel is best and for my tuner.
Other makers may have a different view for their products. --Mike Ezell
See Mike's post #13 above. I, too have spoken at length with Mike. dedogs
Gene Beggs also starts a turn out from bottom.
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