Bore Tech Cu+2 Vs sweets vs wipeout.

[dstoenner]

I am another guy using Montana Extreme Bore Solvent with Dewey rods. I have never seen an issue. I have updated my rods with the newer aluminum thread convertors and aluminum jags. I also use ME brushes as they have a bristle that really scrubs the bore. I do not own a borescope so I cannot attest to the efficacy of my regime but here goes.

1) Pass a patch soaked with ME Bore Solvent, then push the brush to the solvent port, squirt some in and brush.

2) The first couple of times I immediately patch. After a couple I start letting it soak a bit. First 5 minutes then on up. Usually after about 5 times, my patches are coming out a very faint blue. Since ME brushes have bronze centers, I figure that is where the fain blue is coming.

3) I then scrub with Kroil. Depending on what is going on, I may immediately polish with JB BoreBrite or I may let soak for some time. I do a few full passes from chamber to crown and back. Then is short stroke the throat area.

4) I then push a patch of Hoppes #9 then brush with #9, then patch the barrel till the patches are dry. If this barrel is a chrome-moly I will then put a patch soaked in ME Bore oil. It looks like Kroil, just a little thinner but I use it as a protector. If this is one of my military rifles that I probably won't shoot for another year, I use Corrision X instead. I will push a patch soaked in Kroil if I pull a military rifle out to go to the range and then dry patch it.

Yes I know that is a lot of work but I want my barrels to be the same everytime I go to the range. Oh and when I brush the bore after the JB, I can feel how smooth it is that it wasn't before the JB.

FWIW

David

 

[K22]

I have used a BUNCH of different bore cleaners and now I only use wipeout or patchout with the accelerator. I used to not shoot near as much as I do now because it was a job to clean the barrels on some guns. Sometimes It would be an all day thing of wet patches then dry to get the copper out. No longer and issue with the wipeout or patchout. I shoot a lot more now just because the cleaning is soooo much easier. I’ve never needed more than 2 soaks with it. Only thing I found close was Bore tech eliminator which worked very well but I noticed that I was getting light rusting in the bore of my guns I cleaned with the Eliminator so I stopped using it. I don’t have a bore scope but my gunsmith does and he now uses patchout himself after scoping some of my barrels for me. And the only brushes I use are nylon and only a few strokes to knock loose any stubborn powder fouling.

Bore Tech products are water based so I'm told however they claim their products will not cause rusting - they even suggest leaving in the bore for a short period after cleaning.

Anyway - I always swab out with a rush preventative (Barricade) after cleaning with Bore Tech products and haven't experienced any rust formation.

 

[BP1]

Bore Tech products are water based so I'm told however they claim their products will not cause rusting - they even suggest leaving in the bore for a short period after cleaning.

Anyway - I always swab out with a rush preventative (Barricade) after cleaning with Bore Tech products and haven't experienced any rust formation.

Same here except I run a patch of fireclean down the barrel.

 

[D-4297]

Got turned on to the Bore-tech products about a year ago . Was using WipeOut Patchout and Accelerator and thought it was doing a decent job . One of the guys at DSS was cleaning his rifle after the State 600 last year and showed me the Bore-tech . Cleaned my rifle on his tailgate in about 10 minutes . I was sold . Using it ever since . Copper ? what's copper ?

 

[mchees1]

I have been using KG-12 for several years with great success. I seldom see it mentioned but it works very quickly and no ammonia or harsh chemicals. It was originally designed to remove copper from big naval guns. It really works well - I check bores with borescope and copper is completely gone quickly and easily - no overnight or long waiting periods for the product to work. You don't have to worry about neutralizing it when done. I have no reason to try anything else since I found KG-12.

 

[Bc'z]

I have been using KG-12 for several years with great success. I seldom see it mentioned but it works very quickly and no ammonia or harsh chemicals. It was originally designed to remove copper from big naval guns. It really works well - I check bores with borescope and copper is completely gone quickly and easily - no overnight or long waiting periods for the product to work. You don't have to worry about neutralizing it when done. I have no reason to try anything else since I found KG-12.

Where do you get it?
Found it!

 

[Homerange]

Where do you get it?

I got mine from Sinclairs/Brownells a few years back.

 

[Bc'z]

I got mine from Sinclairs/Brownells a few years back.

Thanks
I found it at creedmoor sports, picked up a couple more die bushings also.

 

[Prose]

Bore Tech products are water based so I'm told however they claim their products will not cause rusting - they even suggest leaving in the bore for a short period after cleaning.

Anyway - I always swab out with a rush preventative (Barricade) after cleaning with Bore Tech products and haven't experienced any rust formation.

Yes they are water based and contain a short term rust inhibitor that protects from the water but otherwise does nothing for storing past 2 weeks. An oil must be used with the bore-tech products. I called em and that's what they told me.

I was amazed when switched to bore-tech. It is as or more effective then the harshest, nastiest chemicals but without any of the smell or abrasives.

 

[BowGuy]

Another happy customer of Wipeout + Accelerator. Good enough for Tony Boyer-Good enough for me.

 

[Lannister]

I used to use Sweets but the ammonia base content of the stuff can damage your barrel if you leave it in too long. I think you have 10 or 15 minuets to get Sweets out of your gun before it etches the metals. I now use Wipe-Out on my 1000 yard target rifles. After 100 or so rounds I spray the foam down the barrel and let sit for 1 hour. Then I use nylon brush and gently scrub the barrel before I patch it out dry. Then I treat the barrel again with Wipe-Out and let sit overnight. Patch it out next day after work and put gun away. I remove the muzzel brake and let it set overnight as well in Wipe-Out. Also use Carb-Out and let it sit overniget mostly to soften the carbon build up on the crown due to the use of the brake before I gently scrub it off. Stuff has worked real well for me.

 

[klamathsteel]

Just a question , were you useing brass jags on your patches when using the foam...? It will keep turning your patch blue because it's eating on the jag.... I use gunslick foaming bore cleaner and to me it's wonderful.... But you must wash off your jags and brushes with water when done....

I made this mistake with Sweets and a bronze brush. Could'nt get rid of the blue. Turns out the Sweets was eating the brush.

 

[Homerange]

I made this mistake with Sweets and a bronze brush. Could'nt get rid of the blue. Turns out the Sweets was eating the brush.

Yep, KG12 doesn't do that.

 

[Lannister]

I like it. When I run out of Butch's Bore Shine, I use Bore Tech. Butch's contains ammonium salts, but knowing that, I take precautions to not leave it in the barrel. I prefer Butch's for routine cleaning, but I am down to my last pint.

 

[Webster]

I am another guy using Montana Extreme Bore Solvent with Dewey rods. I have never seen an issue. I have updated my rods with the newer aluminum thread convertors and aluminum jags. I also use ME brushes as they have a bristle that really scrubs the bore. I do not own a borescope so I cannot attest to the efficacy of my regime but here goes.

1) Pass a patch soaked with ME Bore Solvent, then push the brush to the solvent port, squirt some in and brush.

2) The first couple of times I immediately patch. After a couple I start letting it soak a bit. First 5 minutes then on up. Usually after about 5 times, my patches are coming out a very faint blue. Since ME brushes have bronze centers, I figure that is where the fain blue is coming.

3) I then scrub with Kroil. Depending on what is going on, I may immediately polish with JB BoreBrite or I may let soak for some time. I do a few full passes from chamber to crown and back. Then is short stroke the throat area.

4) I then push a patch of Hoppes #9 then brush with #9, then patch the barrel till the patches are dry. If this barrel is a chrome-moly I will then put a patch soaked in ME Bore oil. It looks like Kroil, just a little thinner but I use it as a protector. If this is one of my military rifles that I probably won't shoot for another year, I use Corrision X instead. I will push a patch soaked in Kroil if I pull a military rifle out to go to the range and then dry patch it.

Yes I know that is a lot of work but I want my barrels to be the same everytime I go to the range. Oh and when I brush the bore after the JB, I can feel how smooth it is that it wasn't before the JB.

FWIW

David

The best test I have ever seen for Cu removal. No color interpretation. A bullet was put in the bore cleaner for 19 & 24 hours and weighed for loss of Cu.

https://www.coretacsolutions.com/products_KG_KG12_TEST.htm

I have been using Butches Bore Shine, seems to work well for carbon and Cu.

 

[TAJ45]

Re the above referenced Cu removal test :
A top quality bbl doesn't copper much. True, no reason not to use it but my main target is powder/carbon fouling.
Any tests similar for that?

 

[Webster]

Re the above referenced Cu removal test :
A top quality bbl doesn't copper much. True, no reason not to use it but my main target is powder/carbon fouling.
Any tests similar for that?

Never saw a carbon removal test. Carbon is not soluble in any solvent. The most a chemical could do is loosen it somehow. I cross-sectioned several burned out barrels and looked at them on a scanning electron microscope. The only carbon I saw was in the throat area. Members on this website have said they use Losso abrasive to clean the throat. I don't have a bore scope but my barrel looks clean using Butches Bore Shine. Looking down the bore by eye I can see the bore pretty good but I cannot see the throat area.

 

[South Pender]

When you guys speak of letting the barrel "soak," do you mean just running a patch with a copper remover down the barrel and then removing the patch and leaving the barrel for a few minutes? Or do you go so far as to insert a chamber plug and pour copper remover from the muzzle? Or something in between?

 

[XTBAR]

Kg1 for carbon then Kg12 for copper followed by a few dry patches then one patch with Montana Extreme bore conditioning oil.

 

[farmerjohn]

Kg1 for carbon then Kg12 for copper followed by a few dry patches then one patch with Montana Extreme bore conditioning oil.

How or where do you find this kg 1 and kg 12? I'm not married to boretec, was looking for something better when I found their products. I will give it a try...