Wanting to fix small dents on Rem 700 BDL gloss finish.

[VaniB]

I have an old Rem 700 BDL stock that I bought used with numerous small nicks and dents. The stock is not bad enough for me to want to completely strip and refinish, but I was wondering if I could fill in the small imperfections with clear epoxy and then sand and buff the spot. While I don't expect the repair to make the spot disappear, I was hoping it would be an improvement over settling for dents. Anybody tried this? Can the epoxy be fine sanded or buffed to a shine?

 

[savagedasher]

Steam iron or a damp rag with a regular iron will raises dent in wood

 

[VaniB]

Thanks for that, but the challenge is not raising the wood but working with the existing gloss epoxy finish and trying to fill-in and match it up.
I googled the subject and found two different posts about filling in dents with CA glue and then polishing to a shine.

 

[jds holler]

That particular finish doesn't respond real well to the old steam trick.

You're not off base with your epoxy method, and I think you'll find that it works the best on the most serious damage. Very fine wet/dry sand paper is your friend for this, and you will probably wind up using say, 1500 to even out the entire stock to finalize. jd

 

[alinwa]

OK...... this is f'real.

I've had 10-12 custom pool cues made by a feller up the road. Dual hand-selected shafts etc.

And I dinged a shaft on the overhead light.

So I brought it in to have a new shaft built.

While we were visiting he reached in and brought out a squeege bottle of
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4WCGBQ/?tag=accuratescom-20
ans laid a liddle layer in the ding and then spritzed it with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUVAY9K/?tag=accuratescom-20 and reached for a wood block and some sandpaper.........

I walked out of there in 10 minutes time with a shaft that looked and felt like new.

 

[cptjack]

I know the 2 part epoxy to build fishing rods when added epoxy cant tell

 

[jds holler]

I've been in love with epoxy, standard/slow cure for most of my life. If this CA stuff works as well, I gotta have me some. jd

 

[zeke06]

I have used clear fingernail polish on the high gloss Weatherby and BDL stocks to hide small dings and deeper scratches. Put enough on to wet sand it down and buff out by hand. Try it on a smaller nick and see how you like it before doing them all. Also make sure the nail polish or glue is fully cured before sanding. Good luck.

 

[Fast14riot]

The problem with using epoxy is it may cure harder than the original finish, so when you go to sand it will create a low spot on the original finish around it. CA glue does polish up nicely, though.

 

[VaniB]

I've worked years with CA glue being I build balsa RC airplanes. Id be surprised if CA doesn't actually dry harder then epoxy. I have experience in my RC hobbies with sanding down surfaces that are harder then the surrounding surface, and will first apply masking tape, and then scotch tape for the final sanding, on those surrounding surfaces to mask them.

Thanks guys. I'm fussy about scratches and honestly starting to wonder if I might be happier if I just strip the whole stock and apply a thick gloss finish of Tru-oil or Minwax poly gloss to it. The problem is that that Rem 700 gloss is very hard, and the vigorous effort to strip it can also melt the black plastic tip and grip. I've heard those pieces are white underneath the black exterior. Then I'd get involved with having to start fixing and spray painting those two parts too.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Its a worm hole for sure. Id just go about my business and enjoy it from 5’ away if i wanted to look at it. Or go ding it up yourself so you wont worry anymore

 

[jepp2]

Anybody tried this?

I've been successful raising small dents by using a syringe and adding a very small amount of water in the dent over a couple of days. Try and keep the water refreshed as it will both evaporate and be sucked into the wood. The dent will normally come back flush, and you will just have some cracks in the finish when you are complete.

 

[natdscott]

Its a worm hole for sure. Id just go about my business and enjoy it from 5’ away if i wanted to look at it. Or go ding it up yourself so you wont worry anymore

Lmao!

 

[ricco1949]

I've worked years with CA glue being I build balsa RC airplanes. Id be surprised if CA doesn't actually dry harder then epoxy. I have experience in my RC hobbies with sanding down surfaces that are harder then the surrounding surface, and will first apply masking tape, and then scotch tape for the final sanding, on those surrounding surfaces to mask them.

Thanks guys. I'm fussy about scratches and honestly starting to wonder if I might be happier if I just strip the whole stock and apply a thick gloss finish of Tru-oil or Minwax poly gloss to it. The problem is that that Rem 700 gloss is very hard, and the vigorous effort to strip it can also melt the black plastic tip and grip. I've heard those pieces are white underneath the black exterior. Then I'd get involved with having to start fixing and spray painting those two parts too.

VaniB:
I have stripped stocks with 1 inch and 1/2 inch hack saw blades. Run the back side of the blade across a grinder to sharpen it then raise a burr by drawing it across a 90 degree steel corner to create a razor edge. The blades can be bent as needed as you draw them across the stock to conform to the stock contour. The 1 inch blade can make an aggressive cut.

This is an old wood workers trick......I originally used the blades for final shaping of stocks made from blanks but soon realized it would also work well stripping finish as well.

Rick M.

 

[Richard Whitcomb]

Its a worm hole for sure. Id just go about my business and enjoy it from 5’ away if i wanted to look at it. Or go ding it up yourself so you wont worry anymore

I bought a stock on ebay that was a Remington 700 SA NFL HIGH GLOSS.The CDL ''s ate more mattention sheen. I would just usent a scotch Brite pad to tough up the stock, mask it and spray with polyurethane .