Extraction issue on 700

[4xforfun]

i just bought a used 700 ss Somethingorother with the beavertail HS stock......not a Sendaro. I was told that the 1-12 twist tube was burnt up and I bought it cheap.

First thing I did is clean it up....don't know how many times I have hear smiths say that customers bring in "shot out "bbls for replacement when all they need is a good cleaning. Seen it a few times myself with friends. Gun was very dirty and the bolt was kind of gummed up.

Anyway, after cleaning the bbl and taking the firing pin out and cleaning up the bolt, I loaded up some 2 shot groups with Berger 200 Hybrids and started lowish with RL 25. First group was one ragged hole!! Next group (up 1 grain) was well under 1/2 inch. I went up a grain at a time and shot 2 1/2 more groups till I was forced to quit. Pretty much every other shot the bolt wouldn't pull the empty. I had 1 finger bolt lift and one finger to pull the bolt back on light loads, but the extracter just wouldn't pull the shell. No resistance on bolt lift or pulling the bolt back. In fact, I actually blew in the end of the BBL and got the first one out. Simply jiggeled the bolt a little and they all came out except the last. Got home and the stuck case came out VERY easy...it was not "stuck"..it was simply that the extractor wouldn't catch the rim. This is NOT a PSI issue.

So....generally speaking, if there is an extraction issue with the bolt, is there anything that I can do myself, or is this a "send the bolt in to get fixed " issue. I have no regrets buying the gun, especially at the price i paid.

Thanks,
Tod

 

[SSL]

Sounds like possibly a worn extractor. Try removing the bolt and seeing if the extractor snaps securely over the case rim of an empty. Could also be crud keeping the extractor from seating properly. Keep us informed about what you find. Sounds like you made a good deal. Best of luck.

 

[KMart]

I checked the 2 that I have with the factory extractor and they just snap in. No rivet. Should be able to take out the ejector and use a small flat screwdriver take the old one out, then snap a new one in. These are on standard 308 bolt faces.

should be able to get one from Brownells, Remington or a local gunsmith.

 

[riverwolf1]

Save yourself further aggravation and send the bolt to a gunsmith that will install either a sako extractor or an AR15 extractor. Best mod for a 700 that gets rid of the POS factory extractor!

 

[chuckshooter]

if your goal is a low budget repair, then all you need is a new extractor, just don't tweek it when you are installing or you will be buying another. watch a you tube video on how to to it, I'm sure there are a lot of them.

 

[hogpatrol]

Save yourself further aggravation and send the bolt to a gunsmith that will install either a sako extractor or an AR15 extractor. Best mod for a 700 that gets rid of the POS factory extractor!

If you do this, also get the firing pin bushed.

 

[4xforfun]

LOLOL....You know the saying...You learn something new every day. I have NEVER had an issue like this before , so I never actually looked closely at the bolt of a 700 other than the ejector and firing pin asy....so....I didn't even know that the extractor was removable. I guess it makes sense, but I never really thought about it. To busy at the loading and shooting bench, I guess!!

I will order an extractor (or 2) after Christmas, install and retest.

Big thanks,
Tod

 

[John from MN]

What caliber?
The magnum extractors are still riveted as far as I know. The -06 sized ones are not.
I've seen them crack, but it takes a lot of shooting to wear one out. Make sure the extractor and the recess it sits in are clean. A stiff brush and some solvent followed by a blast of compressed air is best. The extractor has to be able to move freely to do it's job.

Good luck.

 

[chuckshooter]

the last time I ordered some, the best price was directly from Remington.. i think, about $15

 

[Dusty Stevens]

As many as ive tried ive never successfully installed a rivetless extractor. You have to bend them a little to install and they never spring back. Send your bolt to carlsbad and be done with it. No need in even wasting time with a rivetless extractor. Before i did anything else, by hearing how nasty everything was, id soak the bolt face in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air multiple times. Im betting its dirty under there

 

[STS]

Before you start cutting on the bolt it might be a good idea to fully diagnose the problem. There’s a pretty good chance your problem isn’t the extractor at all. Your action may have primary extraction issues because the bolt handle is positioned incorrectly on the bolt. That action relies on the root of the bolt handle cramming off of the receiver to extract the case. If the bolt handle is too far to the rear you will have minimal extraction. Take a feeler gauge and find the maximum gap between the front of the bolt handle and the rear of the bolt handle cut out in the receiver. It should be somewhere in the .010 range. If it’s much more than that you may have your diagnosis right there.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Before you start cutting on the bolt it might be a good idea to fully diagnose the problem. There’s a pretty good chance your problem isn’t the extractor at all. Your action may have primary extraction issues because the bolt handle is positioned incorrectly on the bolt. That action relies on the root of the bolt handle cramming off of the receiver to extract the case. If the bolt handle is too far to the rear you will have minimal extraction. Take a feeler gauge and find the maximum gap between the front of the bolt handle and the rear of the bolt handle cut out in the receiver. It should be somewhere in the .010 range. If it’s much more than that you may have your diagnosis right there.

Its going to have a problem if it hasnt been fixed. Remington has never once timed one of their own actions correctly- which brings me to the main point- theres how many millions out there without forum reading owners that get by just fine. Its like factory tires on a truck- sure those swampers will do better in the mud but do you really have to have em? Its a rarity that the factory setup doesnt work

 

[4xforfun]

Before you start cutting on the bolt it might be a good idea to fully diagnose the problem. There’s a pretty good chance your problem isn’t the extractor at all. Your action may have primary extraction issues because the bolt handle is positioned incorrectly on the bolt. That action relies on the root of the bolt handle cramming off of the receiver to extract the case. If the bolt handle is too far to the rear you will have minimal extraction. Take a feeler gauge and find the maximum gap between the front of the bolt handle and the rear of the bolt handle cut out in the receiver. It should be somewhere in the .010 range. If it’s much more than that you may have your diagnosis right there.

Not sure what you mean, but with the bolt handle in the fire position on an empty chamber i can fit the .018-.020 feeler in both sides, but the .019-.021 will not fit on either side. This is with the bolt cocked. If I pull the rigger and try and retest I notice that there is forward and backward movement....slop. Should I push the bolt forward and check both sides and then visa versa?

 

[ebb]

I over pressured a Remington 700 about 15 years ago. The extractor groove was ruined and to save the bolt I had to have a Sako extractor installed. They have the potential to be dangerous. If another over pressure was to occur the extractor can be blown down the bolt raceway and injure your head or eye. Dusty's uncle built the gun originally and I asked him to fix it and he refused. Sakos get away with this cause they have a piece of metal that blocks the raceway and prevents the extractor from exiting the action. If I could repair or have the bolt repaired with a factory extractor that is what I would do. Only if it can't be repaired with a factory part would I consider a Sako or mini AR extractor. I have 4 or 5 other 700s and have no problems extracting properly loaded cases with the factory part and it will never get blown out the raceway into your face. I shoot the rifle with the Sako extractor to this day but it isn't as safe as my other 700s.

 

[4xforfun]

Oh...and...it is a .532 magnum bolt face with an aftermarket Rock Creek (?) 300 Wby bbl.

 

[Ggmac]

Oh...and...it is a .532 magnum bolt face with an aftermarket Rock Creek (?) 300 Wby bbl.

It'll probably just be crap in the extractor groove . After all how many shots do you think a guy would fire in 300 Weatherby ? I've got 700 s with 10-20 thousand rounds thru the action with the orig extractor . One is on its 8 barrel .
Better check the type of brass your using also . Some brands have a different rim dia and extractor cut . If you compare Weatherby brass to Remington brass you can clearly see the dif .

 

[STS]

Its going to have a problem if it hasnt been fixed. Remington has never once timed one of their own actions correctly- which brings me to the main point- theres how many millions out there without forum reading owners that get by just fine. Its like factory tires on a truck- sure those swampers will do better in the mud but do you really have to have em? Its a rarity that the factory setup doesnt work

You’re assuming that all of those actions have this problem. That clearly is not the case. Manufacturing tolerances. Some will be positioned correctly by accident. Some will be close enough to work and some will be so far off they don’t work at all. Question is which one do we have here?

 

[drover]

Installing a Remington factory extractor, either rivet type or snap in is not rocket science. As mentioned I am sure that there is a youtube video of showing how to do it yourself.

I had to replace a rivet type a few years ago and I made an "anvil" to fit inside the bolt head by taking a thin headed bolt, rounding it to a proper fit then. I drilled the peened over part off of the old rivet, punched the remainder of it out and removed the extractor.
I then tightly clamped the bolt in a bench vise, placed the new extractor and rivet into the bolt head, placed it over the home made "anvil" and peened the rivet over. The whole project, including making the anvil, took 15 - 20 minutes.

If it is a snap in extractor simply reach in with a sharp object, such as a angle scribe or even small screwdriver, pull out one leg and take the extractor out. To install the new extractor set it in the bolt face and carefully push it into the groove taking care not to bend the arms out any further than absolutely necessary.

Forget the Sako extractor I have seen them blownout with enough force that the put a good sized dimple into the forward facing portion of the rear receiver. The shooter was lucky that it hit there because if it had been over another quarter of an inch it would surely have been in his eye or possibly his brain.

As far as bushing the bolt, if you are using high-pressure loads and getting primer leakage then you may want to consider it otherwise spend the money on components and have fun.

drover

 

[Liven The Dream]

Just order some from Bowell's $15.95
Two different install instructions ? One install pop out the old one with dental pick ,install new on Do not bend.
My Gun Smith told me to remove the ejector then install ? I did as He suggested . Worked out fine.

 

[STS]

Not sure what you mean, but with the bolt handle in the fire position on an empty chamber i can fit the .018-.020 feeler in both sides, but the .019-.021 will not fit on either side. This is with the bolt cocked. If I pull the rigger and try and retest I notice that there is forward and backward movement....slop. Should I push the bolt forward and check both sides and then visa versa?

Remove the firing pin assembly and put the bolt handle into the firing position. Find the largest feeler gauge that will fit between the front of the bolt handle and the receiver in the bolt notch. The rear of the bolt handle is not important.