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Contemplating a elr build

Peebles24

Peebles24

I know cheap and ELR cant be said without laughing in the same sentance but im looking as cheap as possible.
Our local club does a annual longest shot competition and my 284 cant participate, minimum caliber is 300 win mag.
My idea is this.
Used savage 110 300 win mag for about 300 dollars. Sharp shooter supply bench rest stock 370 dollars. Screw on a shillen or ??? Barrel 30-32" heavy as possible 1" straight maybe in 338 edge less than 500 dollars. Best brake i can find clamp on or threaded unknown cost. 40 moa rail 100 dollars. Atlon glass 370 dollars.
For a grand built total less reloading supplies under 2k. It would get me in the comp and should be able to easily reach past 2000 yards.
Am i missing something here or completely off base. I just want to be able to shoot that one event a year and im in no hurry to put something together. Will it be a capable set up?

Chad
 
Look for a quality used gun is my advice. I bought a pierce custom in 300 ultra mag that absolutely hammered. Came with dies, brass ready for a scope for $1800. Lots of guys build something like this and realize they have nowhere to use them and sell. Good luck
 
I havent seen much in the 338 edge at that price point. I know a 300 win mag would actually do it though. Really here in indiana its kind of a waste and only get to stretch its legs once a year maybe two times.
 
I think our shoot only goes to 1800 yards.

The problem i see with the savage build is getting enough weight for a monster like 338 edge. Im guessing parts i describled would come in around 20 pounds and even with a good brake would beat me up pretty bad.

Savage 110 action is very open on the top and open for blind mag on bottom. How heavy of a barrel would it actually handle?
 
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Peebles24 said:
I think our shoot only goes to 1800 yards.

The problem i see with the savage build is getting enough weight for a monster like 338 edge. Im guessing parts i describled would come in around 20 pounds and even with a good brake would beat me up pretty bad.

Savage 110 action is very open on the top and open for blind mag on bottom. How heavy of a barrel would it actually handle?
Click to expand...

I've built a lot of Savage based rifles off the Model 112 single shot long action. The solid bottom adds weight for stability and strength/rigidity for the longer barrel.
There are ussually a few on GB any given time. A bolt head change is easy and not permanent.
 
6.5creed said:
I've built a lot of Savage based rifles off the Model 112 single shot long action. The solid bottom adds weight for stability and strength/rigidity for the longer barrel.
There are ussually a few on GB any given time. A bolt head change is easy and not permanent.
Click to expand...
Do you have to have any machine work done when switching the bolthead?
 
The Bolt Head "Floats" on the Savage Model 112 Magnum Target Single shot action. - You may want a "competent person" to check locking lug contact if you decide to switch from a 338 Lapua Bolt head to a Regular Magnum bolt head.
 
Peebles24 said:
If i was to buy the 112 magnum target 338 lapua i see no advantage switching to a 338 edge. That may be the cheapest route for me too. Could throw glass on it and shoot. Wonder if my hornady lock and load classic cast can load 338 lapua brass.
Click to expand...

Measure from bottom of shell holder up to press and then subtract approx. a quarter inch, that will give you an idea how long of brass you can work with. - I'd be willing to bet that your press can accommodate 338 Lapua brass without any problem.
 
Peebles24 said:
If i was to buy the 112 magnum target 338 lapua i see no advantage switching to a 338 edge. That may be the cheapest route for me too. Could throw glass on it and shoot. Wonder if my hornady lock and load classic cast can load 338 lapua brass.
Click to expand...

The 112 has tempted me for alooong time! If I'm going to pay 2$ a piece for brass, I want the .588" case head. Buy a nice barrel in 300 Norma IMP when funds allow.
 
Peebles24 said:
7/300 isnt allowed in our comp its still a 7mm. If i could use a 7mm id try it with my 284, but they only do it in October when its generally around 30 degrees and at 85 degrees my 284 goes sub sonic at 1710.
Click to expand...

Chad,
Your 284 should get you to 1800 with the right combination. I love the .284 and have tried it in many configurations. My old 1000 yard 284 setup is surprising good at 1 mile/1800 +- with a tuned barrel. However, it still becomess subsonic before 2000 doing everything right and there is no controlling that... They should let you shoot at 1800. Get a good tune and show them you can hit the target and who knows. My best was only a 12" 5 shot group at 1 mile with my 7 on a good morning out back of the house. I am putting together a 300-338 Allen Mag just for fun.
Good luck.
 
Blaster-37 said:
Chad,
Your 284 should get you to 1800 with the right combination. I love the .284 and have tried it in many configurations. My old 1000 yard 284 setup is surprising good at 1 mile/1800 +- with a tuned barrel. However, it still becomess subsonic before 2000 doing everything right and there is no controlling that... They should let you shoot at 1800. Get a good tune and show them you can hit the target and who knows. My best was only a 12" 5 shot group at 1 mile with my 7 on a good morning out back of the house. I am putting together a 300-338 Allen Mag just for fun.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
We are at 600' elevation and they do the comp in October, seems most 7mm have a problem getting to 1800 reliably in those conditions. So they say.
 
Most who haven’t shot to 2000 in a competition don’t realize what it takes to keep 5 shots on paper at that range. - I’m not going to go into a dissertation, there’s a bunch of information on E2K that documents all of it.
I personally think a BIG 30 caliber is the minimum and 338 caliber on up are even better.
 
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