Dillon pistol die adjustments...

[Rsadams]

Just a quick question on my new Dillon 550.... I ordered the Dillon 9mm dies etc with the machine... After reading the book , the die instructions and their video they specifically say one of two things , either adjust the sizing die down till it touches the shell plate and lock it down OR the same , but back it out a quarter turn and lock it...

1. Which way do you set up your pistol sizing die in your Dillon..?

AND either way I set it up it seems to be resizing more than my Lee dies in my rock chucker single stage I have been using for the past 4 years , so...

2. Should , or can I just back the Dillon sizing die out until I get it to not size so much... Or just not worry about it..?

Thanks in advance ,
Shawn

BTW , I am loving this thing so far , I ordered the overhead light kit and bin barriers from inline fab yesterday.... I was worrying about spending so much on the new Dillon , now I am wondering why I didn't years ago...

 

[jepp2]

AND either way I set it up it seems to be resizing more than my Lee dies in my rock chucker single stage I have been using for the past 4 years , so...

I think you kind of answered your own question. Remember the 9mm is a tapered case. Set you die so it sized it enough to suit your need.

Many years ago (many) when carbide pistol dies first became popular, they used to have you set the die up the height of a nickel, so you didn't risk breaking the carbide sizing ring.

Glad you are liking your new Dillon. It is rare someone doesn't.

 

[Bc'z]

Another option is to use your Lee dies instead of Dillon's.
Mine are set to touch

 

[TIMO]

Shawn,
use a chamber checker gage or remove your barrel to use as a gage and see if it fully chambers. My Hi-Power has a tight chamber (Barstow barrel) as compared to my Beretta.

Tim

 

[Uncle Ed]

Your dies adjustment will vary with case diameter, case wall thickness and brass hardness.

Some competitive shooter that use range pickup brass use undersized dies that reduce case diameter .002 to .003 more. This is to compensate for older work hardened cases and brass spring back.

Your cases should be a little wasp waisted to insure good bullet grip. The taper crimp is not used for bullet grip and sizing controls the amount of grip. The taper crimp is only used to close up the case mouth flare and streamline the case mouth for feeding.

Place a straight edge on your loaded cases and if your cases are not a smaller diameter below the seated bullet you may have bullet setback from lack of bullet grip. You should also see a slight taper at the case mouth to ensure proper feeding.

 

[Rsadams]

I have Wilson case gauges and pretty much everything else...lol .. somewhere....my cases have never been wasp waisted really and I have had zero problems in thousands and thousands of rounds over the last 5 years... My 9mm are out of 3-4 Glocks and a 92fs I bought for my wife.... All are duty guns , definitely not target guns but are accurate.....

These rounds out of the Dillon would chamber in any gun made , maybe I have just over the years set my pistol dies up like my rifle dies this could explain why I have never had a case fail and don't keep track of how many loads on cases , I don't mix them I load 50 and keep them together in boxes... When they start shooting funny I toss them in the recycling bin...

I loaded a box today on the Dillon for the first time so as long as I didn't do anything dumb it Should be a good deal testing them , now I see why their worth the money...

 

[Bc'z]

I dont have case gauges for our pistols.
I loaded 5 rounds in magazine went out in back and worked action to check function.
Picked them up wiped them off reloaded magazine and fired them for function and accuracy.

 

[Rsadams]

I will just leave them as they are.... Thanks everyone.... Just confusing the written instructions say one thing , their video says another.... Loaded up about 40 and fixing to go to the range now to test them...

Update... Shot fine....

 

[TIMO]

I will just leave them as they are.... Thanks everyone.... Just confusing the written instructions say one thing , their video says another.... Loaded up about 40 and fixing to go to the range now to test them...

Update... Shot fine....

Good,
Shawn,
When I set up dies, I believe the manufacturer instructions are a basic guideline to be followed, every reloading set-up, loading process (how you process) and firearm you load for is different. I have readjusted my dies in my Dillon after loading and testing and as I gained experience. I load for several 45 ACP pistols and have found a happy middle of the road for them. It is not match ammo, but shoots very well and functions every time.

Tim

 

[noylj]

Sizing dies: If you find that rounds won't chamber because of bulges/ridges left just above the extractor groove, you will find that Lee and Hornady go much further down than Dillon. You'll also find that Hornady and Redding also size a bit easier.
Raise shell holder/ram up all the way. Screw in sizing die until it just touches/"kisses" the shell holder. Lower ram and insert case in shell holder. Raise ram and assist, if needed, to get case in sizing die. With ram all the way and case in die, turn down lock nut to lock die body in place.
Partially sizing 9mm has never been of any use for accuracy, so full length is best as it helps ensure functioning.
Next, you need to know about the "Plunk test."
Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.
Remove and inspect the round:
1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long
2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp
3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case
4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit
5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.
Attached is a picture of a ridge that prevented chambering. Note that it is below where the top of the shell holder hits, so it can't be "sized" out. I used a Lee 9mm MAK FCD to Bulge Bust this sort of thing.

 

[Rsadams]

Thanks for your replie , interesting way of doing it... I took fourty rounds to the range today and had no problems.... I have been reloading 9mm for the last five years just not on a Dillon , that's been about five days..lol The only problem I ran across was it was a little slow fps wise but I knew it was setup that way , my little digital scale needs an upgrade , but I checked it on my 10/10 and knew it was going to be a little slower than normal.... Just need to get comfortable with it and get my inline fab skylight kit in I ordered Saturday for a little more light... So far I have been happy with the Dillon , their C/S pretty much everything...

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Your dies adjustment will vary with case diameter, case wall thickness and brass hardness.

Some competitive shooter that use range pickup brass use undersized dies that reduce case diameter .002 to .003 more. This is to compensate for older work hardened cases and brass spring back.

Your cases should be a little wasp waisted to insure good bullet grip. The taper crimp is not used for bullet grip and sizing controls the amount of grip. The taper crimp is only used to close up the case mouth flare and streamline the case mouth for feeding.

Place a straight edge on your loaded cases and if your cases are not a smaller diameter below the seated bullet you may have bullet setback from lack of bullet grip. You should also see a slight taper at the case mouth to ensure proper feeding.

Thats about as perfect a loaded round as ive seen in a while.

 

[Rsadams]

Thats about as perfect a loaded round as ive seen in a while.

I always thought you didn't want it what I call wasp waisted... If that's what perfect is than the Dillon dies are correct and my Lee dies I have been using for the last five years are not... They make more of a strait wall case.... Never had any problems with them as far as failures but it's good to know the new Dillon dies are correct... I did lay a straight edge across the loaded Dillon round and that's exactly what they look like.. So I guess we are good to go , I thought they were over sizing...

For the last five years I have been getting about 10% strange unexplained flyers that were hitting in places I knew they shouldn't be , maybe this is why..? With the 40 rounds I tested yesterday made on the new Dillon it didn't happen , pretty much all rounds went were they were supposed to be... It would be great if I could get my 10% back on target...

That's the thing about reloading , you never stop learning new things to improve and you never really master it you just get better...

Thanks everyone for your time and replies , as always they are much appreciated....
Shawn

 

[Rsadams]

Ok , just to clear up the adjustment thing... Dillon say to screw the die down till it touches , then back it off the shell plate a hair , this from their tech people.... Like I said I was just a little confused because their written documents were different than their video information.. kind of a conflict there..

 

[Hoser]

I have my resize dies touching and then a touch bit more (maybe 1/8 turn) for some "cam" over. I am loading on Dillon 1050s and 550s.

 

[Bc'z]

I have my resize dies touching and then a touch bit more (maybe 1/8 turn) for some "cam" over. I am loading on Dillon 1050s and 550s.

Shoot much? Lol

 

[Rsadams]

I have my resize dies touching and then a touch bit more (maybe 1/8 turn) for some "cam" over. I am loading on Dillon 1050s and 550s.

Yup that's nice...

 

[powderbrake]

Great set-up Hoser.
Is that a Posness Warren in the left rear?
I had one in 12 Ga, and sold it to a buddy who shoots more shotgun than I do, great shotshell loaders.

 

[Hoser]

Great set-up Hoser.
Is that a Posness Warren in the left rear?

Its a Spolar hydraulic. Kinda like a PW.