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Viper Barrel Vise

Just a few words of advise for those using a Viper Barrel Vise.

I am editing this up front, after I initially put up this post, because I just got a call (12:25 pm PST, 11/13/2018)) from Bob Pastor at Viper. This man redefines customer service. He is taking care of me and my vise problem in a way that is completely satisfactory and is well beyond all expectations. He acknowledges the vise cannot handle extreme tapers. I thought it would be OK and was my fault for pushing the limits on the barrel taper. Above all, Bob Pastor was the epitome of stellar customer service and he has earned a permanent and loyal customer. Well done Bob. - Phil

The vise has a top plate with four holes, allowing it slide up and down on four studs. The top plate holes are a bit oversize to allow the plate to rock a bit (tilt) allowing it to grip tapered barrels. I found a section on a barrel, a few inches from the tenon, where the the barrel rested solidly in the bottom half of the vise. I pushed the top plate down onto the barrel and it too was solid. I then proceeded to tighten the bolts evenly to about 20 lb. ft. of torque. All looked even, but the top plate was lower on the muzzle side vs the breech side due to the barrel taper.

After failing to remove the barrel from the action (too tight), I loosened the vise nuts evenly, and saw the top vise plate was stuck and not moving upwards from the springs that push up on it. I saw some movement in three corners of the top plate, but not the fourth. Since some clamping force was reduced, I was able to get the barrel out. The fourth corner was stuck solid, but after some effort, I managed to get the top plate off. Three of the holes were badly scarred inside from the studs. The hole that was stuck was especially tore up.

Bottom line is that the vise cannot accommodate too much barrel taper before the studs bind in the vise top holes. The vise worked fine on another barrel with a more typical taper.

I am not happy failing to remove a barrel AND tearing up my new vise.

I have left a message with Viper Bench-Rest, who I think makes these, to see about a new top, as I like to keep my tools in top shape. I bought it from PMA, but doubt they sell spare parts. If no spare parts, then perhaps bore out the holes a bit and clean them up. Yeah, it is just a vise, but like to keep my tool in top condition. I will have a gunsmith remove the barrel from the action. And yes, I should paid closer attention to what I was doing.
 
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I have a Viper barrel vise as well and used it once before I gritted my teeth and bought the Brownells/ Sinclair barrel vise and the associated inserts I needed. I'm not impressed with the Viper vise at all especially if you have an old Mauser barrel or something that takes some effort to get off. The Viper does work well when doing barrel changes on a Savage though. The Brownells vise is by far the superior product.
 
I have the Viper barrel vice and a much heavier version as well. Both work well.

I use the Viper one much more often. The other uses wood blocks which can split when tightened.

Like all tools we need to select the best one for the job and use it properly.
 
This vice works fairly good for me. I can see that some barrel tapers could make the top plate bind on the studs. My thought is drill out the (4) top plate holes to 5/8”. This should fix the issue. When you are finished, I would like to borrow your new 5/8” bit.
Ben
 
I have one. All the clear coating red parts are flaking off... never had a problem taking off barrels besides having to tighten the hell out of all 4 big nuts... all ive used on it are rem varmint, heavy varmint, and heavy palma contours, no problems tho.

Ill agree, it looks good new.
 
Noob-Rook Sauce Weekend Warrior posting from the garage . . .. . Does swearing and playing large screen high definition porn help get this F-ing Barrel off my Mauser ??
 
Id rather have it bare than powdercoated. I guess you could bead blast it to keep it looking new
Couldn't get my Viper to hold a HV barrel no matter how tight I had the nuts, tried various things(toliet paper rolls, etc) with no luck. Bead blasted inside contour & haven't had a barrel to slip since
Jr
 
Noob-Rook Sauce Weekend Warrior posting from the garage . . .. . Does swearing and playing large screen high definition porn help get this F-ing Barrel off my Mauser ??
This plus copious amounts of really cheap bourbon, a 20 ton press and a 6ft cheater bar really help in these situations - its like instant steroids , and remember at the end of the day it's only a Mauser - y'all get it of in no time! ;)
 
Serious question somewhat on topic. Prefaced that my tool skills are relic and weak. I have the Wheeler Engineering vise and wrench. This vise uses only two bolts to tighten with wood inserts. The biggest ID wood insert they provide is 3/4-inch. Why when there is no barrel except a bb-gun this small no one knows. The instructions state to clamp the barrel as close to the action as possible. That doens't work with my inserts, see above post. Another mentioned above that he clamped several inches away from the tenon to get a more uniform bearing surface. Given that I can't crush the barrel, why the insistence on clamping adjacent to the tenon ? Before I try and find a way to uniformly open my wood blocks to 1.230. without a lathe or other - thanks
 
A few things...

First, I was able to get worn/spare parts from Bob no problem. Outstanding customer service.

Second, If you use some sort of thick cardstock paper, like the cover of some product brochures, they work great to create friction and hold the barrel in the vise when trying to remove a barrel.

My last point is two fold...

You do not need to use all 4 screws in my opinion. The two front screws is all you need at times. For the back two screws, just screw them down enough to keep the top plate somewhat parallel to the barrel. Tighten the front two and have at it.

For the heavier tapered barrels, there is usually a flat section closest to the action. You could grab the barrel from this section rather than the tapered section. Yes, you will most likely have to remove the stock and/or scope, but it is what it is.
 
Flouncer;
Regarding your "just a Mauser" I'm assuming this barrel has never been off the rifle and you want it off so that You swap barrels. Your most practical approach would be to scrap that barrel and the remedy makes life easier. Assuming you don't have a lathe, take it to someone who does and have them make a relief cut in the barrel close to the action. This would relieve the stress of the tenon to action compression and the barrel should be easier to remove. Just make sure the relief cut isn't so deep that the barrel can't take the strain of the cranking and snaps off.
Of course this requires that the barreled action must be removed from the stock.
 
"Worm" aka Bob Paster is a first class guy. His customer service is second to none. His wife, Carolyn is a great lady and her skills as a CNC machinist may over take Bob's skills.
Nat Lambeth
 
I have had a viper for a few years now, the coating has flaked off so I have just been using a index card to wrap the barrel. May look into getting it bead blasted now. Troy
 
Flouncer;
Regarding your "just a Mauser" I'm assuming this barrel has never been off the rifle and you want it off so that You swap barrels. Your most practical approach would be to scrap that barrel and the remedy makes life easier. Assuming you don't have a lathe, take it to someone who does and have them make a relief cut in the barrel close to the action. This would relieve the stress of the tenon to action compression and the barrel should be easier to remove. Just make sure the relief cut isn't so deep that the barrel can't take the strain of the cranking and snaps off.
Of course this requires that the barreled action must be removed from the stock.

Thanks UU. Many barrels on this 1912 Modelo Chileo. Original in 7x57, the .308 when I got it, a 6.5 Douglas and the current Pac Nor 6mmBR. If any barrel comes off easy this one should be it. I am saving the .243 PacNor Palma contour. Waiting on rosin from Amazon . .. .
 
Flouncer;
Regarding your "just a Mauser" I'm assuming this barrel has never been off the rifle and you want it off so that You swap barrels. Your most practical approach would be to scrap that barrel and the remedy makes life easier. Assuming you don't have a lathe, take it to someone who does and have them make a relief cut in the barrel close to the action. This would relieve the stress of the tenon to action compression and the barrel should be easier to remove. Just make sure the relief cut isn't so deep that the barrel can't take the strain of the cranking and snaps off.
Of course this requires that the barreled action must be removed from the stock.
Mauser '98 barrels are 'shouldered' to the "Mauser collar" inside of the action. Making a relief cut at the action face won't help. Probably rusted on from all the years and all of corrosive ammo it has seen. Flouncer, that 3/4" hole in that wood block is just a pilot hole, to be bored to the need size.
 

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