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Firing Pin and Spring upgrade to improve accuracy?

I was reading another thread where they were discussing firing pin spring tension and improvement on accuracy. I had never considered the firing spring to be associated with accuracy before but after reading a couple of articles on this subject I now am looking to upgrade the pin and spring.

In reading the articles, I am now slightly more informed but exponentially more dangerous with the little knowledge I have gained. The articles discussed not only increasing the spring tension but decreasing the pin weight to reduce the pin impact affect on accuracy that would come from the heavier pin striking the primer with increased force.

I shoot a Remington 700, .308 in F-Class. Presently I am shooting 500 yard matches but want to try my hand at 1000 yard matches.

From what I read, I would suppose that the spring tension and the firing pin weight have to be matched for optimum performance. Right now my rifle has over 3000 rounds on the factory spring over the last two years. So what and where should I purchase to upgrade my factory stock pin and spring and more importantly, why?

As always, thank you for your knowledge and input.
 
Atleast you picked an action that’s popular enough to have had several companies come up with alternatives to the factory’s design spec where FP springs come up. I’ve never owned or shot a 700 so I’ll leave you to what others here offer up from personal experience.

Until then simply try Googling ‘remington firing pin upgrade’ to see what I got just now.

The desired effect is to make primer ignition as consistent as possible over time, as well as powerful enough to get the best performance from primers while at the same time minimizing adverse effects on bolt lift, or adding undesireable vibrations - from spring resonance - to the rifle when firing is initiated.

Too, check out what forum member Robert has to say about Belleville spring washers used to actuate firing pins in his designs.
 
Tubb and Pierce both make firing pin assemblies that quicken lock time and increase firing pin energy. Both claim to heighten accuracy. Personally I could not see noticable accuracy improvements in my 308 but many claim they do.
 
I appreciate the input. To be clear, this is not exactly a factory rifle. I have a Benchmark barrel, action was trued and blueprinted by Benchmark as well. The trigger is a Timney 517 set at 1.5 pounds. I am using a XLR billet chassis and Duplin Bipod. For ammunition, I am using Lapua brass, Berger Juggernauts, CCI BR-2 primers and Varget powder.

I am not concerned with ignition of the primers. I don't believe that a primer produces any different discharge as a result of the pin strike. However, from what I have read there is some improvement to be derived from increasing the spring tension and reducing the pin weight. This can result in as much as a 40% reduction in lock time. Reducing the pin weight helps to compensate for the added impact from stronger springs. That impact supposedly can cause harmonics in the barrel that throws the round off.

Sierra did a modest test on one of there test rifles simply by replacing an old spring with a new one. The difference was minor over 100 yards but given the moment of angle over 500 or 1000 yards the difference may make a noticeable difference.

Again, I am learning and I am basing this on a few articles that I have read. I am looking for advice from those who have more experience that can help direct me on this.
 
I appreciate the input. To be clear, this is not exactly a factory rifle. I have a Benchmark barrel, action was trued and blueprinted by Benchmark as well. The trigger is a Timney 517 set at 1.5 pounds. I am using a XLR billet chassis and Duplin Bipod. For ammunition, I am using Lapua brass, Berger Juggernauts, CCI BR-2 primers and Varget powder.

I am not concerned with ignition of the primers. I don't believe that a primer produces any different discharge as a result of the pin strike. However, from what I have read there is some improvement to be derived from increasing the spring tension and reducing the pin weight. This can result in as much as a 40% reduction in lock time. Reducing the pin weight helps to compensate for the added impact from stronger springs. That impact supposedly can cause harmonics in the barrel that throws the round off.

Sierra did a modest test on one of there test rifles simply by replacing an old spring with a new one. The difference was minor over 100 yards but given the moment of angle over 500 or 1000 yards the difference may make a noticeable difference.

Again, I am learning and I am basing this on a few articles that I have read. I am looking for advice from those who have more experience that can help direct me on this.

The primer most certainly reacts differently with different strikes. Inconsistent impact, lack of energy, and different kinds of impact can all be seen in groups and ES. Accuracy generally is effected before the ES. If that was not the case then nothing in the ignition would have an effect so long as it went bang.
 
Listen to these guys , primers can ignite and change your accuracy results .
Search all the info on it . It's not worth doing . Practice moe , buy better flags , a spare barrel , etc . A spare barrel that you test and remove for one of those OH CRAP moments when you have a match coming up and you messed up your barrel . It happens , stuck patch , scratched chamber , dented crown etc .
 
I appreciate the input. To be clear, this is not exactly a factory rifle. I have a Benchmark barrel, action was trued and blueprinted by Benchmark as well. The trigger is a Timney 517 set at 1.5 pounds. I am using a XLR billet chassis and Duplin Bipod. For ammunition, I am using Lapua brass, Berger Juggernauts, CCI BR-2 primers and Varget powder.

I am not concerned with ignition of the primers. I don't believe that a primer produces any different discharge as a result of the pin strike. However, from what I have read there is some improvement to be derived from increasing the spring tension and reducing the pin weight. This can result in as much as a 40% reduction in lock time. Reducing the pin weight helps to compensate for the added impact from stronger springs. That impact supposedly can cause harmonics in the barrel that throws the round off.

Sierra did a modest test on one of there test rifles simply by replacing an old spring with a new one. The difference was minor over 100 yards but given the moment of angle over 500 or 1000 yards the difference may make a noticeable difference.

Again, I am learning and I am basing this on a few articles that I have read. I am looking for advice from those who have more experience that can help direct me on this.
How much is 40% of a millisecond? The only time it could possibly help you is offhand shooting. It has been proven with benchguns, both short range and 1000 yards that the lightweight pin hurt accuracy. When Dwight scott tuned BAT actions he added tungsten carbide to the pin to make the pins heavier for consistant ignition and better accuracy. Matt
 
I went that route and in the end put the original parts back in. Bolt lift becomes heavier with the heavier spring. Lock time is less of an issue with a rifle shot from front and rear rests. For position shooting there might be an incremental benefit. I did try Tubbs Duo-spring (two half length springs coiled counter to each other and installed end to end with each other) with success. When I pulled the trigger with the original spring the bolt handle jumped a bit, with the Duo it simply sat there. No idea if it improved my accuracy or precision but what the heck.
 
I agree with keith. It is cheap and easy. I think they wear and become otherwise impeded by grime etc. more than they weaken. But either way.

I'm finding that more and more people having the firing pin bushed want a new spring so I keep a lot of them in stock.

Sometimes the fluted pins show a lot of wear too and I recommend replacing a worn pin.

--Jerry
 
Sometimes the fluted pins show a lot of wear too and I recommend replacing a worn pin.

Is this peculiar to the 700’s design? I’d think any amount of wear would indicate metal-to-metal contact somewhere, an obvious place where spring energy is lost that otherwise would better be used for motivating the firing pin to do it’s job?

And I too agree with KG. Firing pins ought to be treated as consumables.
 
I will agree on 700 SA Firing Pin Springs falling a sleep after time.
I have a couple rifles for Match Shooting built on 700's and in the past the springs did go south .
I do change them very so often.
 
I have Tubb's firing pin and spring on both my Remington F-Class Rifles and my 98 Mauser. I have never had a failure to ignite a primer yet. My stock Savage also has never failed. however.
 
I have Tubb's firing pin and spring on both my Remington F-Class Rifles and my 98 Mauser. I have never had a failure to ignite a primer yet. My stock Savage also has never failed. however.
Just because it goes bang doesn't mean you are at ultimate accuracy. I have seen new springs bring a BR rifle to life at 1000 yards. I have also seen many guys buy a Tubbs spring and end up taking them out. In BR they just didn't shoot as good as the factory springs. You also need to replace them regularly because they get weak. Matt
 
I know for a fact that Kelblys uses factory Rem. springs in there Panda actions. If there was something out there that was superior, I would bet the farm that they would be running that product.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd
 

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