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Lapping FL die

Done some measuring of my 6.5x47 Lapua brass (factory, FL sized by RCBS die and fired). I want to lap my FL die, to achieve the possibility to put the shoulder back 0.002 for easy chambering and to not have my loaded round rattle in the chamber (smith kinda over polished it?) Loaded neck average OD is 0.2885
How much should I take off? Or what dimensions should the neck, shoulder and the base have on my lapped FL die? Suggestions? Thanks
Stefan
 

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Help us here. are you saying that your FLS die doesn't size enough or that it sizes too much for the case to chamber.

If it doesn't size enough, by all means machine a thou or three off the base of the die.

If it sizes too much, set it up in your press so it just does the job you want.

....or is there something I'm missing here?
 
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Might want to send some fired brass to
Harrell’s precision, they have I think
8 different size f/l dies in the 6.5 x 47
Jim
 
Its sizing my brass too much - if I set it to bump the shoulder 0.002 dimensions are like on the picture. If I set it by touching the shellholder, results are even worse. I will contact Harrels, and I am looking into Forster bushing neck sizing die too, but I am willing to try this first, with lapping the interior, and the neck part. Interior maybe 0.003-0.004, and neck, that will take a bit more to take down, this die is really tight on neck portion, probably because i removed the expander ball when sizing.
 
Its sizing my brass too much - if I set it to bump the shoulder 0.002 dimensions are like on the picture. If I set it by touching the shellholder, results are even worse. I will contact Harrels, and I am looking into Forster bushing neck sizing die too, but I am willing to try this first, with lapping the interior, and the neck part. Interior maybe 0.003-0.004, and neck, that will take a bit more to take down, this die is really tight on neck portion, probably because i removed the expander ball when sizing.

This guy has a couple of articles about lapping both the body and neck areas of dies. I did the body portion lapping for a factory chambered 243 that had a sorta sloppy chamber and for a 308 with the same issue. Both turned out well. I used 'gunshow' Lee dies both times, since they don't seem to be quite as hard as some of the others. You may want to give it a try.

https://rickaverill.com/projects-past-and-present/lapping-reloading-dies/lapping-die-body/
 
Likely right but it screws up that shell holder for everything else you have it set for.

How? By taking some off the top of the shell holder, you are only changing the "take up" distance between the shell holder and the base of the die.

You are not changing the deck height of the shell holder..where the case head sits. It remains the same.

All other changes can be made with the threads on the die
 
If you have other (caliber) dies with the same head size set up so the ram stops when they touch, then you have to readjust the lot of them.
 
If you have other (caliber) dies with the same head size set up so the ram stops when they touch, then you have to readjust the lot of them.

Well, we will have to agree to disagree. I have one RCBS #2 shell holder that has .010 taken off the top with a surface grinder. I use it to load everything that uses a .473 case head. The dies are all set up to bump the shoulders to my desired amount. And I don't have to readjust anything when changing calibers.
 
Lee collet die, if you want to hone anything, get a standard neck sizing die and hone the neck area out so it sizes your brass .002 to .003 under what a loaded round measures. Spend $$$ for a neck bushing die and a few bushings.
 
Since I stumbled across the "Wheeler Method" on this forum, for setting the fit of the case to your chamber, I no longer measure my brass.
I recommend trying this method. You may have to cut a little off the top of the shell holder if your chamber is larger than normal, but once set, you can forget about measuring the cases, and they will be just the right size for your chamber.

 
Since I stumbled across the "Wheeler Method" on this forum, for setting the fit of the case to your chamber, I no longer measure my brass.
I recommend trying this method. You may have to cut a little off the top of the shell holder if your chamber is larger than normal, but once set, you can forget about measuring the cases, and they will be just the right size for your chamber.


I have to adjust my die throughout the life of the brass as it changes. Its not a set it and forget it thing unless youre not actually going back and checking it
 
Stirring the pot a little more, I thought that running dies down to touch the shell holder went out with the dark ages, at least for this group. I have seldom found a die/shell holder combo that gave me the correct bump, and what do you do when the brass work-hardens a little and doesn't bump the same. This is what die shims are made for, right?
 
@sharp.shooter.ser

If your specification are correct, that is a very large over-sized chamber. From which the brass is getting what I would consider, excessively over worked, that will hinder brass life and consistent pressure/velocity.

While increasing the die diameters would compliment the full sizing marriage to the chamber, the brass is still being stretched excessively from its new state. But without a doubt, I to would desire to increase the die dimensions for a closer marriage to the chamber. But in all honesty, myself I would not use that over-sized of a chamber.

Good luck to what ever route you may choose....;)
actually, I believe it is not too oversized. my drawing is not that good. those are dimensions of brass, that has sprung back. and my points of measurement arent marked nicely, for instance, 12.10 isnt the lowest part of the case head, its a spot above it (the lowest part is 11.95) etc etc. It took me maybe 2 hours today to lap the die with various grit compounds, to achieve the (what I believe is) a desirable result - sized case doesnt rattle now when inserted into the chamber. It wont be overworked, from now on, I think? After the initial firing from new that is.
 
Stirring the pot a little more, I thought that running dies down to touch the shell holder went out with the dark ages, at least for this group. I have seldom found a die/shell holder combo that gave me the correct bump, and what do you do when the brass work-hardens a little and doesn't bump the same. This is what die shims are made for, right?

Ive never seen a die or chamber so wrong that you could even get close and still get the correct bump. Usually if youre close to touching you have bumped it way too far.
 

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