Advice needed in brass neck down from 30-06 to 6mm-06

[370bc]

I am wanting to use Lapua 30-06 brass to neck down to 6mm-06 brass. Neck turning will be apparently required. It's Saturday, so no available advice from die manufacturers.
I am building a 6mm-06 on a Tikka T3x for long range coyote control. This is not for setting bench rest records. I do not have any experience in this area of sizing. I have a drill press and drills available to eliminate using hand tools.
I have 270, 25-06 dies already for the step down operation. I do not have the 6mm-06 dies yet. I will be shooting 105 Amaxes in a 1-8 barrel, that I have not ordered yet.
I would like advice on the tools I will need and the dimensions I need to neck turn to for smooth, safe loading/ejecting. I would like to use common factory 6mm-06 dies. I also would like to use a common 6mm-06 reamer.
I have a Sinclair neck turning mandrel.
Thank you for any advice you can throw my way!

 

[ireload2]

Why don't you take a hand full of cases and give them a shot.
Clean and lube. Size in a .270 FL die then size in a .25-06 FL die.

To simulate the final die use a .243 trim die.
When finished sizing you have done most of the work except neck turning.

To save a lot of work skip the Lapua brass. You said you were not shooting competitively. Instead use .25-06 brass. No turning would be required. If other brass does not meet your standards just cull it. It will still be cheaper than Lapua.

Other advice???
Skip the wildcat and build a 25-06 or a 6mm Rem. Heck even a 6mm-.284 might be better than a 6mm-.06.

 

[riflewoman]

I second the idea of using 25-06 brass. But if you are set on using Lapua 30-06 brass...

I’d neck turn after necking to 25-06. I think you’ll end up with a better product and the final step would be necking in a 25-06 Bushing die that has an appropriate bushing installed. Start at .269 to .272 diameter bushing.

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/15392

 

[370bc]

Why don't you take a hand full of cases and give them a shot.
Clean and lube. Size in a .270 FL die then size in a .25-06 FL die.

To simulate the final die use a .243 trim die.
When finished sizing you have done most of the work except neck turning.

To save a lot of work skip the Lapua brass. You said you were not shooting competitively. Instead use .25-06 brass. No turning would be required. If other brass does not meet your standards just cull it. It will still be cheaper than Lapua.

Other advice???
Skip the wildcat and build a 25-06 or a 6mm Rem. Heck even a 6mm-.284 might be better than a 6mm-.06.

I’m going with the Action and OEM because of smooth cycling. The 6-06 should cycle smoother than a 6-284.
I have to get this wildcat that I have been wanting for years, out of my system. The 5 BC Amaxes that I have just retained gave me the go ahead.
No arguments for your caliber suggestions. I just want the challenge.

 

[ireload2]

Famous last words.
I find a 6X47 Rem a lot more practical.
Smooth cycling jajajaja
Your bore will soon be smooth too.

I’m going with the Action and OEM because of smooth cycling. The 6-06 should cycle smoother than a 6-284.
I have to get this wildcat that I have been wanting for years, out of my system. The 5 BC Amaxes that I have just retained gave me the go ahead.
No arguments for your caliber suggestions. I just want the challenge.

 

[370bc]

That’s what the numbers say. I won’t be shooting prairie dogs or competing. Just load development and blasting yotes with a frozen rope. Going with a barrel but for second barrel.
What contour will I need for two barrel set backs?

 

[riflewoman]

For two setbacks per barrel you’ll need a #5plus or #6 in Krieger contours. But in reality, you’ll likely only get 1 setback.

To guarantee 2 setbacks a #18 or #19.

 

[370bc]

Why don't you take a hand full of cases and give them a shot.
Clean and lube. Size in a .270 FL die then size in a .25-06 FL die.

To simulate the final die use a .243 trim die.
When finished sizing you have done most of the work except neck turning.

To save a lot of work skip the Lapua brass. You said you were not shooting competitively. Instead use .25-06 brass. No turning would be required. If other brass does not meet your standards just cull it. It will still be cheaper than Lapua.

Other advice???
Skip the wildcat and build a 25-06 or a 6mm Rem. Heck even a 6mm-.284 might be better than a 6mm-.06.

What are your numbers with your 6mm rem? Light and heavy bullets? Thx.

 

[rickiesrevenge]

I wouldn't neck turn until you have your reamer. It's a wildcat so there is no standard neck dimension. I'm in the middle of a move so I can't look at the reamer print I have for my reamer.
As far as necking them down I'd start with your 270 and 25-06. Then I'd run them through a 243 die. Pretty sure that's how I made them. Forum member sawcarver has a switch barrel 6mm-06. One 8t and one 14t barrel. Pretty sure he made his cases from 30-06.

Aaron

 

[370bc]

i guess that is where Im kinda confused. What comes first? The chicken or the egg? The Standard reamer by redding/RCBS types or the reamer comes first?? Guess Im kinds a thick in this area.

 

[Lucky6547]

If you buy the dies, form the brass, then send a dummy round to a reamer maker, you’ll have dies matched to your chamber...
If you buy a reamer off the shelf, there’s no guarantee that the off the shelf dies will match your chamber...

 

[370bc]

That makes sense.

 

[Twicepop]

The 6MM/06 in commercial form is basically a .240 Weatherby. Another idea that still might scratch the 'wildcat itch" with a lot less work is the 6MM Remington Ackley Improved. It will do do almost what the 6MM/06 will do with slightly less powder. The '06 basic design is a very poor design, it has a lot of body taper with a very shallow shoulder angle that require a lot of case trimming, and will probably have short case life. The 6MM Rem Ackley Improved case will probably only need to be trimmed once in the life of the case and can be formed from 7X57 cases if need be as well, Lapua doesn't make them but Norma does.

 

[rickiesrevenge]

I like to buy the reamer. Form cases with dies I have on hand, fire a few and then send the fired cases off to have dies made. For this one I'd probably just get a Redding 25-06 type s bushing die to size with. And I'd have a Wilson seater blank reamed with the chamber reamer for seating

 

[sawcarver]

Get a reamer or reamer print first is what I would do, you really don't know what your brass needs to be until you know the reamer dimensions.

I used Remington 30-06 brass because I had a bunch of it, went from .308 to 7-06 to 6.5 to 6mm. My sizing die is a Redding 6.5-06 bushing die with a 6mm bushing in it, works really well. My seating die is a Wilson cut with the same reamer.

If you don't have enough A-maxs to burn the barrel out maybe use the 103eldx or the 108ELD-M because then you wouldnt have to work up another load once you burn through the amaxs.

 

[sawcarver]

I get 3300fps with 108 ELD-Ms and in the slow twist barrel 4370fps with 55gr noslers

 

[370bc]

4370! Yikes that smok'en!! Wow! How long and what brand is your barrel??
What are your groups going that fast? Thx!

 

[Farmerboy78]

I run a 6.5-06 that I make from 30-06 Norma brass. I simply remove the spindle and use my die only. I make one pass with well lubed brass and it's done except for neck turning... from my experience, once fired brass reforms better than virgin brass because it is slightly harder and will form instead of kinking. Virgin brass is just too soft.

 

[rickiesrevenge]

His

4370! Yikes that smok'en!! Wow! How long and what brand is your barrel??
What are your groups going that fast? Thx!

His barrels are 23". Pretty sure the 14t is a brux.

 

[370bc]

Does the 5r rifling allow bullets to go faster?