yesMay I ask a thread related question while so many experts are here? I have an old Winchester Model 55 Takedown 30-30. The threads on the barrel are ground off on 4 sides. Same with the action. I can line up the cuts, push the barrel into the action, twist it a quarter turn and it's tight. Inserting the tubular magazine locks it in position. It seems this system would ease barrel switching on some of my other guns. Is the system only good for hunting gun accuracy with mild cartridges?
Thats like the first press i got ( Lee press) With the inserts.May I ask a thread related question while so many experts are here? I have an old Winchester Model 55 Takedown 30-30. The threads on the barrel are ground off on 4 sides. Same with the action. I can line up the cuts, push the barrel into the action, twist it a quarter turn and it's tight. Inserting the tubular magazine locks it in position. It seems this system would ease barrel switching on some of my other guns. Is the system only good for hunting gun accuracy with mild cartridges?
If you use the proper tools, removing and reinstalling a barrel is no problem. The big challenge can be removing the factory barrel. They may require different tools than we use for switch barrel rifles. I have switched barrels many times on my Viper action with absolutely no damage. I think that your conjecture is not based on any actual experience. I have also removed and installed barrels with nuts instead of integral shoulders. For me, their only advantage is that they do not require a lathe to headspace properly.This is one of the things i was thinking about when I started a thread called "Sako A111 threads and?"
I don't see any reason worth changing to any other thread form.
I don't like putting a action wrench on or in the actions so I go with the barrel nut like the one I designed for that sako.
The nut has two parts with a 15* angle on back of first and front of second to increase the thread loading on the barrel nut.
After that it could be used as a shouldered barrel but it doesn't increase thread loading of the barrel shank.
And that brings up another question
(barrel torque) how much?
I have used 50 ft.lbs. then that brings me back to the question about deforming action with the wrench inside or out if you are using more than 50 say 100
I know what i see when (even hard materials) is torqued many times.![]()
You are correct.If you use the proper tools, removing and reinstalling a barrel is no problem. The big challenge can be removing the factory barrel. They may require different tools than we use for switch barrel rifles. I have switched barrels many times on my Viper action with absolutely no damage. I think that your conjecture is not based on any actual experience. I have also removed and installed barrels with nuts instead of integral shoulders. For me, their only advantage is that they do not require a lathe to headspace properly.
It would be something like Spiralock Inc. described in their patent. The reason Harold Vaughn thought it was a good idea was that he tested it pretty thoroughly and found it led to better accuracy (or could lead, I dunno).Being there is a lot of different threads, I am just wondering what your definition of a spiral lock thread is? Reason why I ask is I use spiral lock taps at work but I don't think that's the same thread form you guys are talking about
I certainly thought so at the time (that the top of the V thread was bent by the ramp of the Spiralock ) but if it lead to the SuperShoot, World or 1000 Yard national wins (delusions of grandeur, no doubt), I would bronze it and build another. I was new to it all at the time. Learning how to run a lathe, shoot benchrest, and reload benchrest was a lot on the plate for a 50 year old kid.With spiral lock threads, aren't the threads sacrificed on one of the components your mating them to? I had looked into this on a custom rifle some type back and opted not to go this route. I didn't want threads on a custom action damaged.
I have made long searches on the Net, trying to find a manufacturer for spiral wire thread inserts for 1.0625 x 16 or 18tpi or alternatively for the close metric equivalent M27 x 1,5mm. All stocklists seem to end at 1'00 x 12 or 10tpi.. Therefore, I do not see any point discussing their merits for barrel itting…
R.G.C
Hey Dusty, I don't know where Robert got "insert" from but when I contacted Spiralock, they said they would sell the inserts for thread cutting in some minimum amount, a huge outlay for me at the time and enough that I could have threaded barrels for the two of us for the rest of our lives.. Also, I don't recall Vaughn mentioning that using Spiralock threads would render unreusable either the barrel or the action but he got great result with a number of things. He seemed to operate at a different altitude from most of us.Heli-coil and re-coil will make whatever you want but thread inserts have nothing to do with spira lock threads.
Heli-coil and re-coil will make whatever you want but thread inserts have Nothing to do with spira lock threads.
Heli-coil and re-coil will make whatever you want but thread inserts have nothing to do with spira lock threads.
Dusty,
We name them all inserts here. Having a made on order, minimal quantity order of certainly no less tnan 1000 , add the cost of the thread plug gauge and fittiing tool… Notfor me despite I daw some possible applications for it.
Dusty,
They are all named inserts here. Having had good experience in the past, I considered them for possible use for certain applications. Yes, they can be made on special order, but, considering the minimal order of probably noless than the thousands, plus a specially-made thread plug gage, specific fitting tool make the idea utopic.
Yours
R.G.C