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Harrels Dasher die Measurements

I'm starting to get an ocasional click at the top of the bolt lift with previously fired brass in my new barrel. The web on fired brass measures .4704-4706 at the .200 line from the new barrel and the old one also. My L.E Wilson FL sizer only reduces it a tenth or two at the most. I didn't have time to send brass to Harrels, so I ordered a D3 die, and it's sizing the same as the L.E. Wilson.
Now for the question.....
Does anybody know the actual diameters that the different Harrels dies size down to?
 
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If a D4 wont do it, your in trouble.
I've always got Emery cloth as a last resort!
Sounds like you have a .4708 chamber at the .200 line. You will need a D4 die from Harrell’s for that. Call them tomorrow.... they will swap it for you.
That's exactly what I have. And yes, I have no doubt they'll help me get what I need. Thanks.
no trouble. it may be off at another point. a whidden die will fix it.
My first and last experience with Widden didn't go well. I'll find another option first. Thanks though.
 
The D4 is a very small die. If it is not small enough, I'd open the chamber before getting a custom die. It will bring a case back to original size at the base.
 
I've heard good things about them, I'll give them a try if I get the opportunity some time. Thanks

Edit. Honestly, it might make more sense for me to spec a different reamer, rather than buy a custom die for each rifle. (GF will have her own gun and brass next month also)
Best answer.

The SAMMI .471.4" diameter at .200" is always a safe bet.
 
Does anybody know the actual diameters that the different Harrels dies size down to?

I've got a D4 die and a smaller chamber Dasher that puts out fired brass the same size as what you're getting. With fully expanded multi-fired brass a D4 die gives me about 0.0004 sizing at the base of the case.

I sent them my fired brass and this is what they sent me as the proper fit, though I could almost go for a tiny bit more sizing. My understanding from talking to them is that they take your fired brass and see how far it fits into the die by hand and use that as the guide for which die is best. They said that not all D3 or all D4 are the exact same size after heat treating so they use the test fit method to pick the best one.
 
I've got a D4 die and a smaller chamber Dasher that puts out fired brass the same size as what you're getting. With fully expanded multi-fired brass a D4 die gives me about 0.0004 sizing at the base of the case.

I sent them my fired brass and this is what they sent me as the proper fit, though I could almost go for a tiny bit more sizing. My understanding from talking to them is that they take your fired brass and see how far it fits into the die by hand and use that as the guide for which die is best. They said that not all D3 or all D4 are the exact same size after heat treating so they use the test fit method to pick the best one.
That's exactly the info I was looking for, thank you. For what it's worth, a.308 die gave me the same .0005 reduction. That extra step will work for now until I find a permanent solution.
 
Based on my experience, I always use new brass on a new barrel. #1-The old brass has been work hardened and most likely will not measure the same as new brass that has been fireformed. #2- Even using the same exact reamer it is very difficult to get a finished chamber that exactly mimics the chamber of the replaced barrel. Bolt click is the typical result of mixing old and new brass.
 
I've got a D4 die and a smaller chamber Dasher that puts out fired brass the same size as what you're getting. With fully expanded multi-fired brass a D4 die gives me about 0.0004 sizing at the base of the case.

I sent them my fired brass and this is what they sent me as the proper fit, though I could almost go for a tiny bit more sizing. My understanding from talking to them is that they take your fired brass and see how far it fits into the die by hand and use that as the guide for which die is best. They said that not all D3 or all D4 are the exact same size after heat treating so they use the test fit method to pick the best one.

I called and asked them to send me 2 Dasher dies, a D2.5 and D3, and thats how I determined which die to purchase the D2.5 looked good with hand fitted fired cases, returned the D3 with payment, GREAT folks at Harrels Precision.
 
Based on my experience, I always use new brass on a new barrel. #1-The old brass has been work hardened and most likely will not measure the same as new brass that has been fireformed. #2- Even using the same exact reamer it is very difficult to get a finished chamber that exactly mimics the chamber of the replaced barrel. Bolt click is the typical result of mixing old and new brass.
I need a minimum of 300 loaded rounds to compete for a weekend. I started with 500 pcs of brass in rotation. I pushed my last barrel 1800rnds, and I'll probably burn out 3 more this year. New brass for every tube isn't an attractive option, lol.
After measuring the base and amount of sizing I was getting, I'd be willing to bet the clicks would have started soon in the old barrel also.
I resized the last loads with a .308 die first and the bolt is falling open again, thanks again for whoever suggested that.
I called and asked them to send me 2 Dasher dies, a D2.5 and D3, and thats how I determined which die to purchase the D2.5 looked good with hand fitted fired cases, returned the D3 with payment, GREAT folks at Harrels Precision.
Agreed. I had another conversation with them yesterday. Definitely good people.
 
Only problem with using a 308 dies is it, like an '06 die, tapers the body in.

I tried many dies and only one of my 260 AI dies has a body taper that does not squeeze in the body of a BR case while tightening the case at the .200 line.
 

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