Stock clear coat wax

[Alex Wheeler]

I dont use a gauge or anything like that. To me the stock either breaks free or it just starts to slide back smoothly. Its easy to feel with just finger pressure. A trigger pressure gauge would probably work though if you wanted to actually put a number to it. Cant say I have experimented with it in a few years. Once I figured out a combo that worked I have just stuck with it. Good clear, cordura, carnuba wax powder. Stock tape, and even raw aluminum work well on cordura with the wax too. Never liked silicone, 3m slick, talc powder, ext. Actually my favorite mix is the carnuba 50/50 with ptfe powder. That worked even in Fl humidity.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Anyone ever mess around with Slippery Delrin (Acetal) on the forend and rear? Used in a manner similar to how Alex has his new LRB stock setup? maybe add some baby powder or powdered carnuba?

I can only tell you that delrin isn't really that slick. I use a lot of virgin Teflon in parts where friction and break away is key. There are variables like weight, but I use Teflon for pivot material on my wind flags. If it weren't worthwhile, I wouldn't do it. It's not night and day on something as light as a wind flag but it does MATTER, measurably.

For the recoil of a rifle, it probably will not be measurably better than delrin but it maintains it's thermal stability better, is slicker and is comparable in price. It is noticeably better with my flags in very light conditions and has superior vibration dampening characteristics. It's actually a pretty good dampening material.

If you want to play, wall thickness of the material used seems very valuable in regard to dampening and in how hard it acts under the gun, which can certainly cause or help with vertical. I like to start with a piece of 5/8 od round Teflon and then play with the size of hole through the middle to adjust how hard it acts.

Of course, where rules dictate sand in the bags, it's moot but I do think there is something to be found here. We have to look at the whole setup when trying to extract every ounce of accuracy. The rifle itself is only a part of the equation, albeit a very important one.

Lots of areas to improve upon some very good equipment that people often take for granted, IMHO.

 

[Bc'z]

The water borne paint system is just the mid coat or colors, maybe some primer but I doubt it because it dosent build that much. Probably used a urethane primer surface.
As far as clears go and you probably a 2 part urethane. In Glasurit we have a product called 923-109 That's pre flexed for using in flexible parts like bumpers. Also has a medium to long tail solvent. Makes product great for front ends of cars and completes.
Down side to products like these is that they can feel a lil rubbery because of the elastomerifier that makes it flexible and harder to polish.back to solvents in your film build, they will remain there for up to 6 weeks depending on film thickness. Waxing an automotive finish to soon can trap these solvents which can cause problems in the cure of finish and giving them a tacky feel, or worse yet delamnation. When finishes are sprayed solvents dont just bleed off of the top, they penetrate to the bottom of film and then work thier way out. This is why airflow it critical when applying, not just to evacuate the ambient air.
My suggestion would be to cover your rest with a micro fiber cloth to see if this helps with slide. Putting tape or decals on improperly cured finishes can and will trap solvents.

 

[Tim s]

I've cleared and polished several stocks. Forget the carnuba, get one of the creamy waxes with a silicone componant to it, Mothers makes one. Try Mothers reflections.
They penetrate into the urathane and if you have access to a polisher they will slick up nicely.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I have played with delrin and have to agree its not slick. Its actually a pain to work with. Hard to polish nicely, just as heavy as aluminum, scratches easily. Its just not a material I would use for much of anything. Some of the best shooting lr BR rifles I have known of have had a pretty high friction in the bags. But its a very smooth friction.

 

[snakepit]

you should try a different bag. I havent ever found a stock that works with that super slick road worker vest stuff on the bag

I had two rear bags and one front 3" bag made with the 3M Slick material and have had no problems with them at all using several different rifles, in fact they have improved my shooting. I even wipe the bags down with a Silicon rag to make them slightly slicker.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I had two rear bags and one front 3" bag made with the 3M Slick material and have had no problems with them at all, in fact they have improved my shooting. I even wipe them down with a Silicon rag before use to make them slightly slicker.

its all in shooting style and expectations. theres a bag for everybody- I got one made from my old wore out first harley jacket and an alligator hide I had processed. Had one made for bart with a dalmation lookin cow hide- hair and all.

 

[WillyTP]

its all in shooting style and expectations. theres a bag for everybody- I got one made from my old wore out first harley jacket and an alligator hide I had processed. Had one made for bart with a dalmation lookin cow hide- hair and all.

That dairy cow bag is cool.

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

Very informative thread actually, thanks

 

[divingin]

I tried baby powder before the last match and surprisingly made it worse

Baby powder has perfumes in it. It attacks latex (drysuit seals); it may pull plasticizers out of other finishes. If you're going to use talc, get hold of some pure talc. Easiest place I've found is a billiards supply place.

 

[JRS]

Use a powdered aerosol deodorant. Dries immediately and doesn't get sticky. Most of them are also clear.