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Thanks, That’s what I was hoping to hearI've had mine for almost a year now and I'm very happy with my purchase. I have annealed probably close to 3000 cases of mine and buddies and only one issue which was on one of the coated wheels the coating came off. Email was sent and within 5 minutes Jeff emailed back and told me what the coating was so I simply re coated it. That simple. I would not hesitate a bit to purchase again.
That’s great. Thank you!I've never used any other kind of annealing machine but with a little playing with it I got it down really good. Not sure how the more expensive units work but the annealezz is so simple to use and I find myself enjoying watching it do it's job. My little 4yr old cousin even said it's cool to watch.
i am looking for a good, but low budget annealer. The annealezz I find very interesting and at a good price point for an automated annealer. Looking for any reviews/opinions if anybody has one.
Thanks
Thank you for posting. I will follow the advise.I have had mine for about a year and annealed around 1500 cases with it.
The Good
The Bad
- the price
- the simplicity
- with simple mod the timing can get pretty precise
the good thing is most of the bad can be fixed pretty easily and cheaply with minimum tools
- workmanship could be better
- as delivered no way to get repeatability
- case will not spin as evenly as I would like unless wheels are kept aligned and clean. I modded the lower to give it more traction
When I got my Anealeeze I addressed each of the issues as best I could.
1. took a dremel and ground the spot welds on the feed ramps down. You need a Dremel with a grinding tip and a steady hand along with some gray paint to repaint
2. installed the following digital readout PWM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016FHHGSU/?tag=accuratescom-20. You have to drill/grind out the hole with the toggle switch to install the momentary contact button and cut a window for the digital readout.Once installed though you can always repeat the the timing of the anneal
3. when the blue tape on the lower wheel started looking raggy I noticed the cases were not spinning as smoothly as I would have liked to see. I replaced it with some non skid meant for stair treads and purchased at the local home store for less than $5
Also the sheet metal could be a bit sturdier where the shafts come through,and the wheels can be knocked out of proper alignment. Good thing is they can be bent back in alignment. that's only a concern if you are careless like I was.
I also added a few knobs for torch adjustment. Not really necessary and never used. I tighten them to where they are hard to move and with my hand. I also tried several torches from a small butane to a "turbo". The stock plumbers pencil torch provided with the Anealeeze is the best option. The butane not enough heat and the turbo was too much and too large. The cases in the plastic tub are what I use to get the flame adjusted and aimed. I also recommend letting the unit "run" for 5 minutes to let the torch heat up and the flame to stabilize. When the tank is low or the weather cold I also check the flame about every 5 minutes for consistency. Ditch the little pan they send with it also, an old shop towel works better and does the job quietly
I would purchase again. My unit in operation when it was fairly new. I had not smoothed out those rough welds in the case feed tray when that pic was taken
edit - those are not seconds on the readout. I have never timed to see how long they are but the effect seems to be linear. That is a one time thing thoughjust to get the right number. I found the original numbers for my various cases by using 700 F templaq and a stopwatch. Once the Templaq melted I added 4 secs to the stopwatch and set the timer from case drop in to case drop out by trial and error using sacrificial cases. I think ended up around 10 or 11 seconds from drop in to drop out for .308 but don't quote me on that. Always test the unit with templaq and your finger on the stopwatch to be safe
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It just amazes me that neither the Annealeeze, MRB, or Giraud has not updated their units with that little digital PWM. Another $5 more than the current PWM's they use and a half hour labor. They could market it as a deluxe model and charge $25 - $50 more than the base model.
I just ordered that PWM off of ebay for $12. Will install and see how it works.
Looked like you just soldered the leads onto the existing potentiometer? Or was the pot knob supplied with the PWM a direct fitment for the hole on the original pot?
I just ordered that PWM off of ebay for $12. Will install and see how it works.
Looked like you just soldered the leads onto the existing potentiometer? Or was the pot knob supplied with the PWM a direct fitment for the hole on the original pot? Thanks.
Even tho it doesn't display actual time in the flame, I think the PWM output percentage dispayed in digital format will be much easier to document the motor speed setting for future annealings. Hard to get the original pot set right when changing cases all the time because it's hard to pin point the specific spot where you had it set before.