Best case mouth deburring tool

[dmoran]

@jds holler
While I believe your planned approach of using maximum length cases has merit to aid against carbon of the chamber mouth, I still feel carbon is best controlled in our cleaning regiments. I base my input from barrel inspections of chambers that had both big gaps (+.030") and small gaps (-.005") from case mouth to chamber mouth. In both scenario's, feel it still boils down to cleaning and how the chamber mouth gets cleaned.

IME - as along as a person is aware of the probability of carbon issues, and address' it every time we clean, I see no issues with running a big gap, and do so myself (+.020" with my 6Dasher's).

 

[hrlincoln]

When seating my 140 ELD-Ms I’m getting some jacket peel no matter what I do.

Travis,

Quality of your neck ID chamfer may be part of your issue, but runout or variance in neck wall thickness can also contribute to bullet seating issues. Seating dies typically have pretty tight tolerances and it doesn't take much for gremlins to show up.

 

[jds holler]

@jds holler
While I believe your planned approach of using maximum length cases has merit to aid against carbon of the chamber mouth, I still feel carbon is best controlled in our cleaning regiments. I base my input from barrel inspections of chambers that had both big gaps (+.030") and small gaps (-.005") from case mouth to chamber mouth. In both scenario's, feel it still boils down to cleaning and how the chamber mouth gets cleaned.

IME - as along as a person is aware of the probability of carbon issues, and address' it every time we clean, I see no issues with running a big gap, and do so myself (+.020" with my 6Dasher's).

Yeah, I've also run with cases that are way shorter than chamber length with no issues. This carbon ring thing is just something I've been thinking about lately. Also the fact that most of us seldom know the limits of our case length unless we've used a chamber cast or one of the other methods. Guess I've gotta worry about something. jd

 

[BoydAllen]

In the past, when looking at powder fouling in the area of the transition between the chamber neck and freebore, I could see that that the fouling did not extend back very far down the neck part of the chamber. Ordinary brush and patch work was keeping it below the diameter of the freebore. From this I concluded that if cases were trimmed so that the ends of their necks were farther back than this transition by some small amount that I would never have a problem. Of course this is predicated on cleaning fairly often, every 25 rounds or so, certainly going no more than say 35 rounds between cleaning.

Friends have run into problems with certain powders when shooting longer strings and rather than modify their cleaning frequency have found powders that do not present this problem. One problem combination that I can remember was VV N140 in a .204 Ruger.

 

[Liven The Dream]

Been using K&M and Lyman VLD for years .
Not part of my Match Scores Problem
I would put K&M # 1

 

[Shynloco]

So I’m using a cheap RCBS deburring tool and havnt really had issues when loading my 308. Now I’m loading 6.5CM. This is new unfire Lapua brass that I’ve ran through a sinclair expander mandrel die and deburred. When seating my 140 ELD-Ms I’m getting some jacket peel no matter what I do. I’ve tried using more force than normal, less force, and use 0000 steel wool to smooth it out as the tool I use leaves the mouths extremely sharp and rough. Without the steel wool the peeling is worse. Im at a loss other than I need a different deburring tool. What do you guys use for deburring tools? I have a Wilson Case trimmer and have seen the deburring handle for that or the VLD sinclair tool. Just looking for some direction.

PS: If you see a flaw in my process then by all means tell me, I’m open to constructive criticism.

Travis,
Question: Did you turn the new brass after fireforming just to clean it up? I reload for my .260 Remington and started using the new Peterson brass that I turned after fireforming (as I did with Lapua before). I use much the same process as do you and use a RCBS VLD deburring tool and finish it all off with .0000 steel wool. I differ from you only in that I dip each bullet into Imperial Dry Neck Lube before seating my bullets into the casing. I also use a Redding Competition Seater Die to seat bullets. I will also say that I check each finished cartridge for concentricity and have found I actually get a slight bit better runout with the Peterson Brass than I do with Lapua, but both are still at or below .02 rounout. BTW, also measure your neck after resizing to make sure they are consistent and you are getting the same neck tension across the board. If you've not turned your brass (initially = just to clean it up) that could attribute to a variation (however slight) in neck tension after resizing.

Hope that helps.

Alex

 

[retired]

did you trim to length before loading ?
if you did, did you deburr the outside of the neck ?
if you did not the outside might be being pushed in,
in the neck of your seating die,
making it even smaller/tighter.

 

[Travis Roberts]

Travis,
Question: Did you turn the new brass after fireforming just to clean it up? I reload for my .260 Remington and started using the new Peterson brass that I turned after fireforming (as I did with Lapua before). I use much the same process as do you and use a RCBS VLD deburring tool and finish it all off with .0000 steel wool. I differ from you only in that I dip each bullet into Imperial Dry Neck Lube before seating my bullets into the casing. I also use a Redding Competition Seater Die to seat bullets. I will also say that I check each finished cartridge for concentricity and have found I actually get a slight bit better runout with the Peterson Brass than I do with Lapua, but both are still at or below .02 rounout. BTW, also measure your neck after resizing to make sure they are consistent and you are getting the same neck tension across the board. If you've not turned your brass (initially = just to clean it up) that could attribute to a variation (however slight) in neck tension after resizing.

Hope that helps.

Alex

This is brand new brass. Have not turned the necks. Only thing I’ve done to it is run it through a mandrel and deburred it. Maybe I should run it all through the sizer and then run the mandrel once again to make it all even. Also thinking I should probably make the switch to the standard expander mandrel instead of the neck turning mandrel (only reason I was using that was because I’m loading from a mag and wanted a touch more neck tension. I also just read the article about neck thickness also playing a factor in neck tension. Maybe the neck turning mandrel with the thicker Lapua brass is too much?)
The only link thats different from my 308 (never had his issue with the 308) is the expander mandrel as I never used one for my 308. And with new Lapua brass with the 308 I’ve alwyas just loaded it up and shot it without any issue.

I also want to thank everyone for the responses! All good info.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

This is brand new brass. Have not turned the necks. Only thing I’ve done to it is run it through a mandrel and deburred it. Maybe I should run it all through the sizer and then run the mandrel once again to make it all even. Also thinking I should probably make the switch to the standard expander mandrel instead of the neck turning mandrel (only reason I was using that was because I’m loading from a mag and wanted a touch more neck tension. I also just read the article about neck thickness also playing a factor in neck tension. Maybe the neck turning mandrel with the thicker Lapua brass is too much?)
The only link thats different from my 308 (never had his issue with the 308) is the expander mandrel as I never used one for my 308. And with new Lapua brass with the 308 I’ve alwyas just loaded it up and shot it without any issue.

I also want to thank everyone for the responses! All good info.

if you want to do this you really need a porter precision products expander die. using a neck turning expander doesnt leave you with any option on sizes and its only sized to fit your brass for neck turning not for final expansion for seating. another option that would kill 2 birds so to speak is a whidden fl bushing die with his precision expander ball option. you'll get good dies plus have the option for an adjustable expander.

 

[nativecat01]

I am glad this thread has come along. I have posted other questions about this. I have a 6BR and have had trouble chambering the bullets. I use a .267 bushing in my Redding competition die. I took the rifle to my smith this week and he told me that I am not deburring my lapua brass. I do deburr my brass, but apparently not properly. About 10% of the cases flare out minor, and causes the case mouth to be .268. That is enough that the cartridge will not chamber. Is that too tight of a chamber, or do I need to neck trim all of my cases? I am thinking about having the chamber reamed out a little more. I am shooting the 105gr Bergers.