Fire form 6br brass with cream of wheat

[Panama Evans]

I've never done this before, and could use some help with detailed instructions on HOW TO.
I have varget powder, pistol powder for my 45acp, reloaded 15. I've heard a faster powder works better, but I'm not sure if what I have will work, and if so how much to use. Also how to prep the cream of wheat to plug the brass shall we say. Any help would be wonderful.

 

[22DASHER]

Use whatever pistol powder you have and start low. Work your way up with the powder charge until you get crisp shoulders. You don’t even need cream of wheat.... put some butt wipe in the end and hold it up in the air and pull the trigger.

 

[jds holler]

I prefer to put a bullet in them and shoot a squirrel. jd

 

[tmwinds]

Fire form 6BR to what? It does make a difference. There are a lot of different methods depending on what you are forming.

 

[retired]

not with a case full of fast pistol powder. be careful where and what you say.

I prefer to put a bullet in them and shoot a squirrel. jd

 

[retired]

fire forming to what ?
the answers vary
but cream of wheat is not needed

 

[Dusty Stevens]

dont use cream of wheat. bad idea.

 

[Eddie Harren]

For damned sure don't use "Instant" COW!

 

[jds holler]

not with a case full of fast pistol powder. be careful where and what you say.

Noted. What I should have said it that I have had great luck and success (and sub MOA accuracy) by simply loading a proven safe charge of suitable powder capped by an appropriate bullet, and using these shells to shoot ground squirrels. jd

 

[spclark]

dont use cream of wheat. bad idea.

Why’s that?

Before embarking on a 7mm wildcat project in early ‘16 I ‘read up’ on fire-forming bottleneck cases. That was a common technique mentioned: pistol powder behind CoW filler topped by soft paper wadding to keep it all in.

Worked OK though I had slightly rounded case shoulders from the 16 grains of Bullseye I used, but those ironed out nicely after first ‘real’ live-load firing.

Later I noticed quite a few cases were showing head separation telltale - a ring just ahead of case web - yet never had a case actually separate upon firing.

Opinions from others suggesting maybe I should be lubing cases for f’firing? Admittedly, cases I used were many-times-fired Lapua Palma cases so perhaps starting with new (an endeavor I’m awaiting warmer spring weather to begin this season) is a good time for a different approach!

 

[retired]

fast pistol powder by it self will produce a nice sharp corner.
rifle fired vertical
start low and work your way up til the case looks sharp
i bought a lee powder measure and took it to the range,
just kept bumping up til they looked good( i was doing
30 br a simple task. ) bring a deprime/prime tool and re do
the early cases.
you can use a very small pc of tp or none.
make sure you tell the range officer what you are doing.

 

[LoanHarvey]

I used instant cream of wheat, and it burned and stuck to the inside of the neck shoulder junction....do not use this!! LOL

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I used instant cream of wheat, and it burned and stuck to the inside of the neck shoulder junction....do not use this!! LOL

Ive seen bolt handles broken off after having cream of wheat in there leftover. Lucky that was all. Its not necessary so just dont do it

 

[johara1]

There is absolutely no reason to form cases with the BR IMP. with anything but a bullet. It shoots in a .1 fire forming the case is held back against the bolt face the way it is chambered. I load 29 gr. of H4895 and a 105 Hybrid .010 in and shoots in a .1. So why would you waste your time with COW and you still have to shoot them again to get where you were fire forming with a bullet. One last thing clean and dry your chamber and loaded round cases off with non chlorinated brake cleaner or they will be short......... jim

 

[BT1]

There is absolutely no reason to form cases with the BR IMP. with anything but a bullet. It shoots in a .1 fire forming the case is held back against the bolt face the way it is chambered. I load 29 gr. of H4895 and a 105 Hybrid .010 in and shoots in a .1. So why would you waste your time with COW and you still have to shoot them again to get where you were fire forming with a bullet. One last thing clean and dry your chamber and loaded round cases off with non chlorinated brake cleaner or they will be short......... jim

If truly a 6br to a 6bra, do this. I agree that you can win club matches with this method. Do not use the COW method! Maybe shoot steel with the ff loads and practice your bench manners and wind reading skills. ------ Steve

 

[newbieshooter]

From recent posts - the shooter is shooting a re-barreled Savage 12F in 6BR (not brai).

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/6mm-br-norma-upgrade-load-data-suggestions.3939361/

 

[Panama Evans]

So I see lots of replies, and will pipe in now.
First I'm looking to fireform my brass 6br to 6br after I have full length resized it.
So with that said what is a good starting point of amount of Winchester WST powder?
I'm guessing that the best plan is to load up the cartridges then holding my rifle with the barrel pointing up, insert the cartridge and shoot.
Doing this repeatably increasing the the amount of powder till the cases are forming correctly.
If all this is correct how much should I increase powder charges by. By 1 tenth or what amount of powder?

 

[dkhunt14]

So I see lots of replies, and will pipe in now.
First I'm looking to fireform my brass 6br to 6br after I have full length resized it.
So with that said what is a good starting point of amount of Winchester WST powder?
I'm guessing that the best plan is to load up the cartridges then holding my rifle with the barrel pointing up, insert the cartridge and shoot.
Doing this repeatably increasing the the amount of powder till the cases are forming correctly.
If all this is correct how much should I increase powder charges by. By 1 tenth or what amount of powder?

Just put a bullet . 005 in the lands and shoot them. I have great groups at 1000 fireforming. I when shot them in aggregates where it counted for my year. Some of my guns have shot better forming then they did after. Matt

 

[retired]

i cannot give numbers
but i would use 1 gr steps and go smaller as you see the cases take shape.
go prepared to clean the bore and chamber.

So I see lots of replies, and will pipe in now.
First I'm looking to fireform my brass 6br to 6br after I have full length resized it.
So with that said what is a good starting point of amount of Winchester WST powder?
I'm guessing that the best plan is to load up the cartridges then holding my rifle with the barrel pointing up, insert the cartridge and shoot.
Doing this repeatably increasing the the amount of powder till the cases are forming correctly.
If all this is correct how much should I increase powder charges by. By 1 tenth or what amount of powder?

 

[HTSmith]

So I see lots of replies, and will pipe in now.
First I'm looking to fireform my brass 6br to 6br after I have full length resized it.
So with that said what is a good starting point of amount of Winchester WST powder?
I'm guessing that the best plan is to load up the cartridges then holding my rifle with the barrel pointing up, insert the cartridge and shoot.
Doing this repeatably increasing the the amount of powder till the cases are forming correctly.
If all this is correct how much should I increase powder charges by. By 1 tenth or what amount of powder?

I've had some of my very best groups and shot my best match score out of brand new Lapua 6BR cases. I'd load'em and shoot'em, but that's just me.