Your correct, if done properlyI was talking to a fellow machinist last night and he said to NEVER buy a resharpened chamber reamer or have one sharpened because they are then undersized? This does not make sense to me. Wouldn't they resharpen it and nock it back to retain the size?
I was talking to a fellow machinist last night and he said to NEVER buy a resharpened chamber reamer or have one sharpened because they are then undersized? This does not make sense to me. Wouldn't they resharpen it and nock it back to retain the size?
Agreed. Being that it is tapered and prooviding enough 'blank' shank length it would make sense to resharpen as needed. However, from my query with one reamer maker, the cost savings would not be great enough for me to consider a regrind from them. If I recall perhaps 10-15% lower than the cost of a new reamer.I was talking to a fellow machinist last night and he said to NEVER buy a resharpened chamber reamer or have one sharpened because they are then undersized? This does not make sense to me. Wouldn't they resharpen it and nock it back to retain the size?
Having any cutting too re-sharpened (when the cost to re-sharpen is less than buying new) is a no-brainer! Again, "machining 101". Just as long as the one doing the re-sharpening is qualified to do so! Last one I had done by Dave Manson was $40, I believe, but I'd check his web site or make a call to verify as prices may have gone up. And turn-around was about 2 1/2 weeks time.As a machinist yourself, whats your opinion?
I virtually never sharpen tools. Carbide end mills are to cheap to resharpen. This is the first time I have messed with chamber reamers.As a machinist yourself, whats your opinion?
Good point. Could be I misused some terminology when talking to him.I wouldn't consider a resharpen the same as a regrind. Jm2c.
A 1/2" carbide end mill is $30 or sometimes less. To sharpen that end mill you'd need a man who gets paid $30/hr. A chambering reamer, for a rimless cartridge is $140. $40 for re-sharpen is cheaper than a new reamer by quit a bit. Inserts are cheap, $15-$20 each for brand name turning/facing/milling, when bought from an industrial supply, and they take little skill to change.I virtually never sharpen tools. Carbide end mills are to cheap to resharpen. This is the first time I have messed with chamber reamers.
I judge 'um just like any other cutting tool. Look at the cutting edges under magnification, and how it cuts. I own reamers with 40-60 chambers cut and they're still cutting strong. I'm using a muzzle flush, so my chambering tools never see much heat. I'm, also, not 'crowding' them to see how fast I can be done, but I don't 'baby' them either. "baby" 'um and you can rub them to death. Rubbing cutting edges is as bad for the tool as feeding or turning too fast.To all you folks who chambered gazillion chambers, when do you know that the reamer had to be re-sharpened or maybe replaced, regardless what technique you employ to arrive at a finished chamber?
That's BS! The od of a reamer doesn't change when properly sharpened. No need to move anything back. You don't know what you're talking about.I dont have reamers sharpened because to do it right the reamer is set back the length of the neck so everything can be ground to the original size. This puts the bushing farther away from the throat potentially into bore thats not running concentric. I dont rely on tight bushings to make up for setup, but if you do then this will cause an off center throat. On the few that have been setback I dont use a bushing on them to insure the throat is centered.
You get funnier all the time. Better call JGS and tell them that. Even just stoning the face of a flute will reduce the diameter a small amount if you stone enough to actually sharpen a dull edge.That's BS! The od of a reamer doesn't change when properly sharpened. No need to move anything back. You don't know what you're talking about.
That's BS! The od of a reamer doesn't change when properly sharpened. No need to move anything back. You don't know what you're talking about.
Even if it were true, why not have them move the bushing back, too? But it's not, so it doesn't matter.
You do bring up a point, but that's why I've never done it and why I said, that's not how it's done...No more talk. You DO NOT turn down the od of a chamber reamer to sharpen it!You need to remove material to sharpen an edge.
Pretty hard to drill and tap hardened HSS to move the bushing and retainer screw back.