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rifle position after shot

josebd

Silver $$ Contributor
the rifle is a savage .308,bell and Carlson varmint stock,accutrigger 1 1/2 pounds
I just shot a 5 shot group in between 1/4 and 1/2 inch,
I'm also a lefty,my problem is after I shoot,i do keep my head down and follow through,the gun is pointing high and right,im pretty sure I have it square on my shoulder,ive watched my cheek pressure,doesnt seem to matter,light or heavy,still the same.im getting good groups,do I need to cure this or just live with it?
 
I am shooting off of a sturdy bench, shooting with bags, I think my setup is pretty good
 
Do you have some kind of fore end stop that you slide your rifle back into after you shoot or do you just realign on target by eye?
 
Haha, a 1 1/2lb gun, no wonder. All right twist barrels have a tendency to hop upper right, somehow you need to manage the recoil. Try going prone, straight behind the rifle and see what happens. Also, a dang good muzzle brake may eliminate a good portion of this.
 
Haha, a 1 1/2lb gun, no wonder. All right twist barrels have a tendency to hop upper right, somehow you need to manage the recoil. Try going prone, straight behind the rifle and see what happens. Also, a dang good muzzle brake may eliminate a good portion of this.
1 1/2 pound trigger weight,not rifle weight
 
A rifle that is that light, under the recoil of that caliber is unlikely to track straight back under recoil. One thing that people commonly fail to notice is rear bag movement during recoil. A very small amount of this will have the rifle pointing off target. I have not gotten around to it but I have a Edgewood bag with a hard bottom that sticks out a little beyond the body of the bag. On a smooth bench with cordura bag ears and stock tape I have seen small bag movement from recoil shooting a 10.5# 6PPC. The plan is to clamp the bag to a piece of plywood and that to the bench to compare tracking. With a little ingenuity I think that you could devise a similar test. What I have done to deal with very obvious movement on a wood top of unfinished planed dimension lumber is to place a sheet of 150 grit sanding screen under the bag to create more traction. It has been very effective. A friend fond that he was getting bag movement shooting his short range benchrest rifle using a Edgewood gator bag on a slick concrete bench. Two sheets of the same sanding screen solved the problem. I did not originate the idea. I believe that I saw it on one of the forums on Benchrest Central.
 
A rifle that is that light, under the recoil of that caliber is unlikely to track straight back under recoil. One thing that people commonly fail to notice is rear bag movement during recoil. A very small amount of this will have the rifle pointing off target. I have not gotten around to it but I have a Edgewood bag with a hard bottom that sticks out a little beyond the body of the bag. On a smooth bench with cordura bag ears and stock tape I have seen small bag movement from recoil shooting a 10.5# 6PPC. The plan is to clamp the bag to a piece of plywood and that to the bench to compare tracking. With a little ingenuity I think that you could devise a similar test. What I have done to deal with very obvious movement on a wood top of unfinished planed dimension lumber is to place a sheet of 150 grit sanding screen under the bag to create more traction. It has been very effective. A friend fond that he was getting bag movement shooting his short range benchrest rifle using a Edgewood gator bag on a slick concrete bench. Two sheets of the same sanding screen solved the problem. I did not originate the idea. I believe that I saw it on one of the forums on Benchrest Central.
Rifle weighs around 10 or 11 lbs
 
A rifle that is that light, under the recoil of that caliber is unlikely to track straight back under recoil. One thing that people commonly fail to notice is rear bag movement during recoil. A very small amount of this will have the rifle pointing off target. I have not gotten around to it but I have a Edgewood bag with a hard bottom that sticks out a little beyond the body of the bag. On a smooth bench with cordura bag ears and stock tape I have seen small bag movement from recoil shooting a 10.5# 6PPC. The plan is to clamp the bag to a piece of plywood and that to the bench to compare tracking. With a little ingenuity I think that you could devise a similar test. What I have done to deal with very obvious movement on a wood top of unfinished planed dimension lumber is to place a sheet of 150 grit sanding screen under the bag to create more traction. It has been very effective. A friend fond that he was getting bag movement shooting his short range benchrest rifle using a Edgewood gator bag on a slick concrete bench. Two sheets of the same sanding screen solved the problem. I did not originate the idea. I believe that I saw it on one of the forums on Benchrest Central.
Frequent dampening the concrete top works well.
 
I have seen and heard good reports on that scope. It has enough magnification to get the best from a rifle at 100 yards, and for shooting well beyond that in the field and at targets that are designed for the longest ranges.
 
Front rest,with rear bag

When i first started to shoot my stock Rem 700 Mil Spec in .308 with 20" I would have similar issues. After replacing with a 30" Bartlein barrel in heavy palma contour the rifle now is more nose heavy and stays right on target after squeezing a shot off.
 
With the rifle in battery position, slide the gun back and forth until it does not change from going straight back and still remain on target. I did this, and I found that it takes me a lot of adjusting the front rest and the rear bag to keep it sliding back and forth, all the while still remaining on target. I sometimes mark my rear bag and front rest position outlines when I do get it right on the table top. It's pain, but it helped me.
Shooting 5 lbs. kimber taught me a lot about how I needed to change my bench technique in order to get it to group. My old 9 pound rugged 77 varmint was very forgiving. The stock on my new Tikka T3x LITE in 270 win will be wearing a Manners stock in the future. The factory tikka stock is a great example of how not to design a stock. The stock almost jumps to the next county after the shot, if I don't hold on to it with a death grip! :)
A shooting jacket with rubber pads on the shoulder and elbows are a big help too.
I too have siliconed caulked 60 grit sandpaper to the bottom of my rear bag. I am also looking in the classified section for a Haitian Witch Doctor to ward off any evil spirits that might be hanging around. That's what all of these little well kept secrets seem to be, trying to keep track of all of them in order to get true load results to appear reliably down range. They do work.
 
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