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La Bounty action kit

  • Thread starter Thread starter Someoldguy
  • Start date Start date

Someoldguy

I see there is a kit available from Brownell's, PTG and other sources to facilitate truing Rem 700 actions called the La Bounty Action kit.

Looks like it consists of a fixture to hold the bolt for bolt truing and a sleeve to facilitate receiver truing.

So. You guys know if stuff works or it is more akin to this year's 'Big Bass Lure'.

Does this action kit work?

Thanks in advance for your opinions and experience.
 
the bolt fixture works. ive been using one of them for 20yrs now and it works perfect

Good to know. How about the receiver sleeve? I don't get how the bolt raceway and receiver lugs are ever rendered concentric . . .?

Perhaps I'm obtuse . . .
 
never used that part. I use a homemade fixture like the one viper (bob pastor) makes now for holding an action

Dang! More research!

LoL!

All kidding aside, I thank you. Off to Google I go.

Are you speaking of the sleeve with multiple set screws? I can see how that can work, but what the heck is used to indicate the bolt raceway in with?

The bolt raceway seems to be the key to my amature thinking.

And I've asked this before and met . . . rebuttal. How can you tell if the bolt raceway is concentric to the bolt bore?

Pardon me if my terminology is off. I'm asking here, fellas. Not accusing. I hope the difference is obvious. (?)
 
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I feel ya. maybe others have more economical approaches and will chime in

I apologize if I have confused you or anyone else.

At this point, my question is how are the bolt raceways being dialed-in concentric with the receiver lugs with these truing systems.

I'll gladly pay the man who has worked this out.

Well, maybe not gladly as I'm a man of limited resources.

But dammit, the man is going to have to convince me all the same. And I'll pay for the resourcefulness once I'm convinced. I'd have it no other way.
 
I apologize if I have confused you or anyone else.

At this point, my question is how are the bolt raceways being dialed-in concentric with the receiver lugs with these truing systems.

I'll gladly pay the man who has worked this out.

Well, maybe not gladly as I'm a man of limited resources.

But dammit, the man is going to have to convince me all the same.

I use a manson truing mandrel. those other guys may chime in with something better when they wake up. my paypal address is my email address.
 
I use a manson truing mandrel. those other guys may chime in with something better when they wake up. my paypal address is my email address.

Thank you very much. It's about my bedtime, so I'll wait and see what anyone else may care to comment this morning before I contact you later today, and thank you! I appreciate it!
 
I was just kidding about the payment- buy your wife something nice to put up with the road youre headed down.

This hobby is my only indulgence. I don't own motorcycles, fast cars, mud-bog trucks or chase loose women. And compared to some of you guys, . . . well.

I don't compete with anyone but that ugly man in the mirror. Trouble is, he cheats. :confused:
 
I apologize if I have confused you or anyone else.

At this point, my question is how are the bolt raceways being dialed-in concentric with the receiver lugs with these truing systems.

I'll gladly pay the man who has worked this out.

Well, maybe not gladly as I'm a man of limited resources.

But dammit, the man is going to have to convince me all the same. And I'll pay for the resourcefulness once I'm convinced. I'd have it no other way.
I think you are confused the bolt raceway aren't getting dialed in, the bolt bore is getting dialed in to parallel with the threads and perpendicular to lug abutments and face. The raceways do not influence the bolt when in battery they only give the lugs a place to be or ride during cyceling.
Not trying to argue just can't understand why you think they need to be dialed in to concentric with bore or anything else.
Can you explane that?
 
The Viper fixture allows you to adjust the action in multiple planes so that you can get exact concentricity To determine that concentricity, most use some sort of ground mandrel and bushings in the raceway. Manson makes a dedicated ground rod for this. Some use the Manson or PTG raceway boring jig for this as it has a precision ground dowel as part of the pilot and uses the same bushings. Since you need two bushings for an action and because there can be considerable variation between actions, you'll need a set of about 10 bushings to cover all the possibilities (I only have about 6 or 7 as I buy them as needed). Also, for some reason, Manson made a run of their rods that were ground centerless. Centerless grinding is great for super consistent diameters across the length of the grind, but like a barrel bore, the dowel will all end up a little banana shaped by virtue of the way a centerless grinder works. Make sure there is a cone at each end to ensure that it was ground between centers, or it'll be useless as a means of finding concentricity (I have a video of this somewhere if anyone wants to see. The centerless ground rods have up to 0.0030 runout.).

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Dang! More research!

LoL!

All kidding aside, I thank you. Off to Google I go.

Are you speaking of the sleeve with multiple set screws? I can see how that can work, but what the heck is used to indicate the bolt raceway in with?

The bolt raceway seems to be the key to my amature thinking.

And I've asked this before and met . . . rebuttal. How can you tell if the bolt raceway is concentric to the bolt bore?

Pardon me if my terminology is off. I'm asking here, fellas. Not accusing. I hope the difference is obvious. (?)
Now if you really need to know if raceways are concentric to bolt bore dial in the bore in a fixture like suggested and then you would have to get a indicator in the raceway and note where indicator is and pull out without disturbing indicator reading plane spin action 180 check again and see what you have.
Kinda like dialing in a square part in a four jaw
 
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For what it's worth, I don't use the Viper fixture anymore. I built my own for several reasons, to improve on the shortcomings of the viper fixture. First, I made it of steel (because the only thing stronger than steel is MORE STEEL); second, it's threaded directly to my lathe spindle to remove the stickout and any movement in the chuck; and third, I used 1/2x20 set-screws in place of the 1/2x13 that Pastor uses.

This fixture also works well for barrels that are too short for my outboard spider.

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For what it's worth, I don't use the Viper fixture anymore. I built my own for several reasons, to improve on the shortcomings of the viper fixture. First, I made it of steel (because the only thing stronger than steel is MORE STEEL); second, it's threaded directly to my lathe spindle to remove the stickout and any movement in the chuck; and third, I used 1/2x20 set-screws in place of the 1/2x13 that Pastor uses.

This fixture also works well for barrels that are too short for my outboard spider.

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When you dial in a action with your fixture do you hold it on the front ring and back or just the front?
 
I think you are confused the bolt raceway aren't getting dialed in, the bolt bore is getting dialed in to parallel with the threads and perpendicular to lug abutments and face. The raceways do not influence the bolt when in battery they only give the lugs a place to be or ride during cyceling.
Not trying to argue just can't understand why you think they need to be dialed in to concentric with bore or anything else.
Can you explane that?

No, your terminology is what I meant to say. I said bolt raceway when what I meant to say was bolt bore.

That's what I get for thinking and posting about subjects like this late in my day. o_O

Sorry, my mistake.
 

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