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Neck turning (Getting it right the first time)

I had a friend stop by tonight while I was Neck turning some Dasher brass for 2018. He asked how I set my depth of cut to get the neck wall thickness I want without slowly working it in from the touching position. The minute I pulled this out of my Container he said a few words that I cannot repeat. It was a feeler gauge. This can be obtained a all automotive stores, Lowe's, Home Depot and Harbor Freights.
The process of getting the neck wall thickness is just as easy as picking the feeler with the thickness you want and slowly adjusting the cutter down until it just touches your gauge. Set the set screw and cut away.
What is obvious to one person is not so obvious to another. I hope this helps someone.
Terryneck1 (4).JPG neck1 (3).JPG neck1 (2).JPG neck1 (1).JPG
 
67 Mustang with the real hi-po 289 with solid lifters. It is so easy once you do it once. By the way most so called Hi-Po 289's are fakes but this one is all correct. Great idea with a set of feelers.
 
I had a friend stop by tonight while I was Neck turning some Dasher brass for 2018. He asked how I set my depth of cut to get the neck wall thickness I want without slowly working it in from the touching position. The minute I pulled this out of my Container he said a few words that I cannot repeat. It was a feeler gauge. This can be obtained a all automotive stores, Lowe's, Home Depot and Harbor Freights.
The process of getting the neck wall thickness is just as easy as picking the feeler with the thickness you want and slowly adjusting the cutter down until it just touches your gauge. Set the set screw and cut away.
What is obvious to one person is not so obvious to another. I hope this helps someone.
TerryView attachment 1037928 View attachment 1037929 View attachment 1037930 View attachment 1037931

Another addition to your K&M turner is the pilot jack. It makes adjusting the depth of the cut easier. I use a touch of paint on the adjuster threads to add a little friction.
K&M.jpg
 
I have done this for years in FACT my feeler gauges are "Beat & Battered" from use adjusting Solid Lifters on 1963 409 Engine

Jim
When I was young (65 now) a guy a block away had a nice black 1963 Impalla with a 409 w/dual 4's and a 4 speed that I believe he bought new. He traded it for one of the first 1969 427 ZL-1 Camaros also with a 4 speed. That was the first fast car I ever rode in.
 
Yeah, I totally agree with you on the feeler gages. But if you're using a K&M neck turner you should know that there is now a tool that is way better than that and at around $100 its a value that nothing else comes close. Not to mention the pain in the wrist.


Joe
The big drawback is it does not allow the cutting operation to float preventing dead nuts on neck tolerances. Also the K&M is cheaper and offers more accessories like carbide mandrels.
 
Yeah, I totally agree with you on the feeler gages. But if you're using a K&M neck turner you should know that there is now a tool that is way better than that and at around $100 its a value that nothing else comes close. Not to mention the pain in the wrist.


Joe

I have the Hornady neck turner. I tried to like it. But I guess I got a bad one. The shell holder spindle is not precisely straight. I thought it was me on how I put the case on. I did everything I could to no solution. So when I spin it with the drill on, it’s not spinning straight. Or should I say, concentric? I even took the spindle out of the frame and go directly on the the drill. Still same. So when I start to turn neck, it on only cuts the neck to where the highest point of the rotation. Kinda frustrating for a precision tool. Anyways, I bought a Sinclair case holder with the drill case driver. Spins a case nice and straight on the drill. Use the Hornady neck turn body only and clamp it to the edge of my bench. Works flawlessly that way. Thinking of getting a 8 inch drill press in the future. I have a idea of incorporating the setup to it using the press..
 

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