Chamber flush system pressure ?

[Shrek]

I’ve been reading the threads on diy chamber flush systems and I’m wondering what pressure people are using while reaming the chamber ? Why did you decide on that pressure ? The few comments I’ve found seem to be using 20-40 psi reaming. Is there anyone here using high pressure (100psi+) while reaming on a manual lathe ? Using higher pressure to evacuate chips without withdrawing the reamer ? I’m just trying to decide what to build for myself. I’ve got some ideas as to how I want to lay it out but not the pressure I should build it to run. I’ve got a half dozen electric motors from 1/2-3 hp and read a suggestion to use an old hydraulic steering pump from the junkyard for a pump. It sounds like a good idea. They will run some very high pressure if I choose to use one. I didn’t want to derail the DIY flush system parts thread with the pressure question.

 

[Danny1788]

I run around 40psi with 5gal of dark sulfur cutting oil with a gallon of trans fluid mixed in. I used a centrifugal pump and mainly use the flush system to move chips out. I still back the reamer out a lot just to keep the flutes clean and I don't take big cuts. The flush system for me just keeps everything lubed and cooler while taking cuts. But it still does move a lot at only 40psi. If it was up around 100psi it would be spraying all over the place and making an even bigger mess.

 

[jfseaman]

I think I'm at about 35psi. Water soluble. Respiratory safe. Cutting fluid. I went through a couple before settling on this. I use an 6 to 1 where the bottle says 10 to 1.

I'm not a professional but doing more and more.

 

[Shrek]

So nobody is using higher pressure ?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

So nobody is using higher pressure ?

Nobody likes the mess im sure. No reason to go higher at the speeds we chamber

 

[Shrek]

Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to explore the options before I build something.

 

[tac284]

So nobody is using higher pressure ?

Guess I’m the black sheep... I turn mine on to about 30-40 psi, bring the reamer in and then crank it to 120psi. I’m running straight vipers venom so maybe that’s the difference, i would never pull the reamer out to fair though. I beat if I cut it with a gallon of atf that would not be the case.

 

[jaclthr]

Hello All,

With my flush setup I am running 80-85 PSI while chambering. I run 75 RPM while pushing in the reamer, slow and steady. I also pre-drill and step bore the chamber undersize before running the reamer in.

jaclthr

 

[dakor]

Mine runs about 95 to 100 PSI and I chamber at 115 RPM.

 

[Ggmac]

Read Pascals Law . It's all about hydraulic flow / pressure . Works well with muzzle BRAKE design also

 

[Ggmac]

Pascal's Law simply states that when a "container" is filled with a pressurized fluid the fluid's pressure acts equally in all directions. Introduce flow and you no longer have a "trapped fluid" situation. Which is why as fluid's speed increases, it's pressure decreases. Go read about the Bernoulli Effect. I'm fairly "current' on hydraulic flow/pressure after 25 years as a diesel mechanic working on John Deere farm equipment, Caterpillar heavy equipment, etc. Once upon a time on the way to becoming a Master John Deere Service Technician I even "got lucky" and ended up Gold Certified in Hydraulic Systems by Deere & Co. Not too shabby with electricity, either. Exact same "concepts" - voltage = pressure, amperage = flow, resistance = restriction, etc. Just a little difference in the "fluids'.

My memory may not be what it was BUT I remember it computing the pressure increase / decrease associated with the volume .
Not the in all directions which is obviously true also .
100 lbs over a vol of 100cuin when transmitted to a 200 cumin cyl would have 50 lbs
Again going from some old farts brain .

 

[Ggmac]

Meyetgobang , pm sent .
I'll stroke your ego if you want , but play nice !
Make that old and slightly fried brain !
Should have also said volume and restrictions. Or do I have that backwards , oh well .

 

[Robert Gradous]

Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to explore the options before I build something.

I run 100 psi with oil.

 

[boiler_house7]

I would think the viscosity of oil you choose would be a determining factor. Frank at habcool blended me a light gun drill oil with some added sulphurs and synthetics. I use the JGS notched screws on the reamers for the flush sytem and run no more than 40 PSIG. More than that better have a paint suit on. You can see the chips flowing out well. If I see the chips slow down, I shut my flush off pull back and hit my pneumatic foot pedal for filtered air to blow chips out through barrel. When im 80% in on chamber I run no more than .080 in and pull totally out. The blend with habcool prolly no better than the rigids or others with high sulphurs but it is a very light viscosity oil to keep the chips moving and it is reasonable in cost. Bill

 

[ridgeway]

I went from a 1/8hp sump to a high psi carbonator pump and made a world of difference. I am flushing Mobil 767 with ATF...chips move now, lol

 

[Kevin Taylor]

Wow, I top out at 22 psi, back reamer out slow to clear chips. Any higher pressure the mess would not be worth it. I used to take the reamer out completely and dip it in hi sulphur, this is faster better!

 

[Jayson]

does anybody sell a complete kit? I have looked around and there are so many different models of carbonator pumps. Not sure once one to get. Thanks

 

[GenePoole]

I've not seen a complete kit; at least not with barrel-through flushing in mind.

All the carbonator pumps I've seen are essentially the same: a Procon vane pump attached to a 1/4 HP or so motor. You don't need any of the other accoutrements. The pump will deliver 120 psi or more so (at least with water-based coolant) you'll need to drop that down to 10-15 psi. I just replaced the bypass valve spring with a much weaker one from my junk drawer. Now you just need a rotary union, a reservoir and some vinyl tubing. I also eventually added a 20 micron filter to keep my coolant cleaner longer.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I've not seen a complete kit; at least not with barrel-through flushing in mind.

All the carbonator pumps I've seen are essentially the same: a Procon vane pump attached to a 1/4 HP or so motor. You don't need any of the other accoutrements. The pump will deliver 120 psi or more so (at least with water-based coolant) you'll need to drop that down to 10-15 psi. I just replaced the bypass valve spring with a much weaker one from my junk drawer. Now you just need a rotary union, a reservoir and some vinyl tubing. I also eventually added a 20 micron filter to keep my coolant cleaner longer.

Got my kit from gretan. Comes with everything you need to put it together and replace all the parts once you see how it works

 

[Jayson]

thx for the replies. If I can not get a spring to work at the pressure/flow that I want can I just add a bypass? thanks