Agreed
What's the real advantages of different cleaning methods/media???
- Thread starter Ledd Slinger
- Start date
Agreed
I have not tried anything to my lizard, but I'm getting ready to add some lemi shine
Lizard?
This is some kind of critter bedding, right?
Lemi-shine’s not gonna do much if’n what you add it to isn’t mostly water. It’s not like Flitz or some other kind of polishing additive.
I use a Lyman 1200 Vibratory Tumbler with the Lyman brand corn cob media (the green-ish stuff) and add a few small pieces of torn-up-used dryer sheet to the mix. Tumble before de-priming and separate the brass from the media with a rotary case/media separator, which seems to remedy any issues I used to have with media getting stuck in flash holes (or anywhere else for that matter). Use/recycle the same corn cob media for a loooog time, like 1000's of cases, but think that the dryer sheet pieces clean-up/refresh the media and definitely cut down on dust.
My cases come out impeccably clean and polished, but I do leave them in the tumbler for a very long time, like a minimum of overnight.
My cases come out impeccably clean and polished, but I do leave them in the tumbler for a very long time, like a minimum of overnight.
nakneker
Gold $$ Contributor
I’ve used a Vibratory tumbler I bought at a garage sale for 10 bucks, corn cob media and flitz for years. Works great.
I bought a 338 RUM sendero a couple weeks ago and the guy sent 25 pieces of old tarnished brass with it. Left them in the tumbler overnight and they came all clean and shiny. Resized them and it was all for not, you could almost press a new primer in with your thumb, primer pockets were done. But they sure do look nice even if they are in the Garbage.
I bought a 338 RUM sendero a couple weeks ago and the guy sent 25 pieces of old tarnished brass with it. Left them in the tumbler overnight and they came all clean and shiny. Resized them and it was all for not, you could almost press a new primer in with your thumb, primer pockets were done. But they sure do look nice even if they are in the Garbage.
Spclark... I just had to try using the lemi shine with my lizard corn cob together to see what it did.... and it did shine them pretty nice after letting it run over night.... but they had a funny feel about them with some kind of coating on them, so I soaked them a few hours in lemi shine, dawn, and water.... then they felt slick and smooth. I had also put some 243 and 22-250 cases in just the water combo mentioned above, and they came out nice as well.... nice enough that they matched the tumbled ones... but... the tumbled ones had a cleaner area deep inside the case near the primer pocket.
I use walnut lizard bedding with a half cap of Flitz. Run the tumbler for a few secs to distribute the FLITZ, then toss an old dryer sheet in to catch any 'dust', and put the lid on. 2-3 hrs is plenty for a couple hundred cases...
After tumbling, I grab a couple cases at a time and 'tap' them together, upside down, to insure there is no media lodged up inside the cases. Then toss 'em all in an old t-shirt, roll it up, grab it by both ends and give 'er some love. Cases come out clean, shiny, and no leftover residue. Beyond aesthetics of a 'clean' case, more importantly, I'm not running a sooty, dirty azz case that may have hit the dirt in the field and stored in a dusty pocket, up into my resize die...
What is advantageous for one, may not be for another.
After tumbling, I grab a couple cases at a time and 'tap' them together, upside down, to insure there is no media lodged up inside the cases. Then toss 'em all in an old t-shirt, roll it up, grab it by both ends and give 'er some love. Cases come out clean, shiny, and no leftover residue. Beyond aesthetics of a 'clean' case, more importantly, I'm not running a sooty, dirty azz case that may have hit the dirt in the field and stored in a dusty pocket, up into my resize die...
What is advantageous for one, may not be for another.
I add Nu Finish and the brass comes out new looking.
What is lizard bedding?
Lemi shine reduces the hardness of the water. It is not a polish.
Basically crushed walnut, but cheaper than say...crushed walnut.
I will not argue the advantages or disadvantages of polishing media do to the fact that as the saying goes about opinions, will always stir up a can of worms. Also I am new to this forum and do not want to make any enemies right off the bat. But I can state a few facts. Firstly, is that you want to use a process which leaves little to no residue on or in the brass, such as polishing compounds and dust. Secondly, Brass can only be hardened by "work hardening" it. This means any mechanical process which peens the brass such as using too little soft media like walnut or corncob, or using hard metal media such as stainless steel or ceramic media will peen the brass and harden it. This can and usually will lead to neck cracking or worse. Using those media, the brass should be annealed after polishing. Myself I prefer the ultrasonic cleaner with Orange cleaner such as this stuff. http://oileater.com/industrial/cleaners-degreasers/orange-cleaner/ This cleaner works beautifully removing all the crud left by the powder burn. If I want to make the brass a bit shinier, I add about 1 teaspoon of water soluble soldering flux to the quart. This makes the brass nice and shiny without damaging it. I do occasionally use the vibrating tumbler with walnut shell media. I clean my media regularly by putting it in an old pillow case, putting a rubber-band around the end and throwing it in the washing machine and than the dryer. Since I only tumble the brass when it has already been cleaned in the ultrasound, I wash my walnut shells about every fifth or sixth time I use them. I anneal my brass regularly after about every second or third firing. I have gotten as much as 12 or more loads out of brass, and I do not load light. I have been using a propane torch and turn the brass on a spindle mounted on a timer motor. I have however just ordered an inductive heater for this task so most likely I will go away from the torch/spindle method. This should be faster and more controllable.
FYI I buy my walnut shells from Harbor Freight and it is very inexpensive. It is less than $1/lb https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-fine-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92155.html If you add your 20% discount coupon to it it winds up costing about $18.40 for the 25# bag.
FYI I buy my walnut shells from Harbor Freight and it is very inexpensive. It is less than $1/lb https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-fine-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92155.html If you add your 20% discount coupon to it it winds up costing about $18.40 for the 25# bag.
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like you mentioned everyone is entitled to an opinion even if it is wrong.
corn or walnut media 'PEENING" NECKS....lol
corn or walnut media 'PEENING" NECKS....lol
He said too little walnut or cob, as in the cases are smacking into one another too much. He did not say that the walnut or cob is as hard as metal.
no he said too little or to much MEDIA he never said the CASES were doing it.
THAT WAS YOUR ASSUMPTION.
THAT WAS YOUR ASSUMPTION.
Thank You, You do understand. I did re-read my post and it is what I stated. I never used the words "too much" in that statement. Also later in the post I did mention that I use walnut media. I always make sure there is more than enough for the amount of brass in the tumbler. More is fine (not necessarily better) too little is B-A-D bad. Myself, I would never use Stainless Steel or Ceramic media for brass. However I do use Ceramic while Molly Coating bullets.
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At this point I also assume that you are retarded. And as it turns out my assumptions turn out to be correct.
I dont see why you have to give everyone such a hard time because you are lacking in your reading comprehension abilities. Id almost rather have to deal with guffey
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