Forster sizers

[grovey]

I've upgraded a few sizing dies to Forster dies. Two of the FL sizers I bought ( from the same guy) were used, and both were crushing the shoulders with the generic 1/8 turn cam over setup. I then realized the expander balls were adjustable, and after adjusting them as the instructions in my new die set directs ( the new one worked fine) they seem to work ok now.
The used ones were most definitely setup wrong, but it does seem like the expander ball could/would possibly walk on the spindle with use. Has anyone experienced this? I've had my fill of ruining cases.

 

[Barlow]

What cartridges are you trying to work with, and exactly how are you setting up your dies. (pictures would help) I would set the expander at the highest point,(shoulder on the spindle) and just snug it up. It shouldn't move, but when you clean your dies just inspect it periodically. Need more info on crush issue. Barlow

 

[Hanbleceya]

I've upgraded a few sizing dies to Forster dies. Two of the FL sizers I bought ( from the same guy) were used, and both were crushing the shoulders with the generic 1/8 turn cam over setup. I then realized the expander balls were adjustable, and after adjusting them as the instructions in my new die set directs ( the new one worked fine) they seem to work ok now.
The used ones were most definitely setup wrong, but it does seem like the expander ball could/would possibly walk on the spindle with use. Has anyone experienced this? I've had my fill of ruining cases.

Sizer die instructions most generally say to set die to get cam-over. If you do that, you are bumping the shoulder. This is like SAAMI. It will fit any rifle in their data base.

First time sizing: put ram up and against the shell holder. Then back die off slightly and tighten. Try case in action. Keep easing the die inward/downward and checking to see if it allows bolt to close easily. This is best done with the extractor removed so you will not be feeling tension from that.

Cam-over=shoulder bump. You go to cam-over and you have shortened your neck before you even know where it needs to be to fit correctly in your chamber.

Need more info- just reply

 

[grovey]

It wasn't the die body being to low. I know how to bump the shoulder ,and I merely set it up quickly like that to run a piece of brass thru it to expand it . That was my first time trying the new to me Forster dies, or any Forster die for that matter. lol The used dies in question are a .223 and a 22/250.

According to the instructions the lower 1/3 of the expander ball should line up with the vent hole in the die body The expanders were screwed up as far as possible and I was crushing necks against the spindle bushing. I adjusted the expander down to the vent hole per the alignment instructions and they worked as they should. I'll have double check my setting as I just eyeballed it quickly. My concern was if the expander would walk up or down with use.

 

[FeMan]

The more I use Forester sizing dies, the more I love them. I have four or five in different calibers. I have crushed a few shoulders with them due to improper adjustment of the sizing button. Once set properly, I have never had them move. If they did move, I would think the sizer ball would migrate down (where it is ok) instead of up (where it can crush shoulders). After all, the force applied to it is on the downstroke. I have learned to feel for the button on the downstroke. I want about 50% of the neck of the case to still be in the neck portion of the die when I feel it hot the button. I have had them hone the necks on all my dies so the ball only expands about 0.001" so the feel is subtle.

Great dies and I have never had an issue once I get them set up properly. I get the straightest brass out of them; even better than with my Redding and Whidden dies.

 

[Barlow]

I just reread your op about the "generic 1/8 turn camover". Assuming you have the correct shellholder, back the die out of the press a few turns, raise the ram all the way and turn the die in until it just makes slight contact with the shellholder. Size the case and inspect for crush, there shouldn't be any. I don't know if you have the Hornady Lock n Load comparators, but if you don't, I recommend them. They will bring order to your reloading. Good luck again, Barlow

 

[FeMan]

In setting them up, I run the ball as far down as possible to start. I then start working it up until I feel the expander button enter the neck somewhere around 1/4" into the downstroke. HTH.

 

[grovey]

The more I use Forester sizing dies, the more I love them. I have four or five in different calibers. I have crushed a few shoulders with them due to improper adjustment of the sizing button. Once set properly, I have never had them move. If they did move, I would think the sizer ball would migrate down (where it is ok) instead of up (where it can crush shoulders). After all, the force applied to it is on the downstroke. I have learned to feel for the button on the downstroke. I want about 50% of the neck of the case to still be in the neck portion of the die when I feel it hot the button. I have had them hone the necks on all my dies so the ball only expands about 0.001" so the feel is subtle.

Great dies and I have never had an issue once I get them set up properly. I get the straightest brass out of them; even better than with my Redding and Whidden dies.

Yep, that's where I was. I look forward to trying these.

 

[MSS]

It wasn't the die body being to low. I know how to bump the shoulder ,and I merely set it up quickly like that to run a piece of brass thru it to expand it . That was my first time trying the new to me Forster dies, or any Forster die for that matter. lol The used dies in question are a .223 and a 22/250.

According to the instructions the lower 1/3 of the expander ball should line up with the vent hole in the die body The expanders were screwed up as far as possible and I was crushing necks against the spindle bushing. I adjusted the expander down to the vent hole per the alignment instructions and they worked as they should. I'll have double check my setting as I just eyeballed it quickly. My concern was if the expander would walk up or down with use.

I have not had that happen where the expander walks back up. What was the guy you bought them from doing with the expander ball set like that?

 

[grovey]

I don't know, maybe he hadn't even used them ? He did mention the decapping assembly was new on the 223 die, so one would think it was factory adjusted ? The only example of a new Forster sizer I have here was factory adjusted and ready to use out of the box. Either way I know what's up now and no more innocent Lapua cases will be laid to rest before there first firing.

 

[dmoran]

... This is best done with the extractor removed so you will not be feeling tension from that...

The extractor will need to remain to extract the case.
Removal of an ejector/plunger will eliminate tension against the case.
Donovan

 

[Hanbleceya]

The extractor will need to remain to extract the case.
Removal of an ejector/plunger will eliminate tension against the case.
Donovan

I use a dowel

 

[dmoran]

I use a dowel

Extractors hook over the case rim, and do not create tension, unlike ejectors/plungers that do and are commonly removed for the task.
I personally don't know anyone who removes the extractor instead, like your advising.
Donovan

 

[hoz53]

Sizer die instructions most generally say to set die to get cam-over. If you do that, you are bumping the shoulder. This is like SAAMI. It will fit any rifle in their data base.

First time sizing: put ram up and against the shell holder. Then back die off slightly and tighten. Try case in action. Keep easing the die inward/downward and checking to see if it allows bolt to close easily. This is best done with the extractor removed so you will not be feeling tension from that.

Think it about it. You have nothing to lose. Cam-over=shoulder bump. You go to cam-over and you have shortened your neck before you even know where it needs to be to fit correctly in your chamber.

Need more info- just reply

Extractors hook over the case rim, and do not create tension, unlike ejectors/plungers that do and are commonly removed for the task.
I personally don't know anyone who removes the extractor instead, like your advising.
Donovan

how did this post get in a thread about a sizing die- mabie its the new setup jay posted about

 

[dmoran]

how did this post get in a thread about a sizing die- mabie its the new setup jay posted about

See post #3

 

[hoz53]

See post #3

ok i see now- i scanned that one instead of reading it all the way through. i take both out because im anal about it and think the extractor might not snap over the rim.

 

[dmoran]

ok i see now- i scanned that one instead of reading it all the way through. i take both out because im anal about it and think the extractor might not snap over the rim.

Cool....
But will say, for a solution, if you remove the bolt and place the case into the extractor, then insert both, typically will eliminate any extractor interference and retain the use of the extractor for extracting the cases.
Donovan

 

[hoz53]

Cool....
But will say, for a solution, if you remove the bolt and place the case into the extractor, then insert both, typically will eliminate any extractor interference and retain the use of the extractor for extracting the case instead.
Donovan

yes that would work thanks

 

[Sixgun]

I've upgraded a few sizing dies to Forster dies. Two of the FL sizers I bought ( from the same guy) were used, and both were crushing the shoulders with the generic 1/8 turn cam over setup. I then realized the expander balls were adjustable, and after adjusting them as the instructions in my new die set directs ( the new one worked fine) they seem to work ok now.
The used ones were most definitely setup wrong, but it does seem like the expander ball could/would possibly walk on the spindle with use. Has anyone experienced this? I've had my fill of ruining cases.

The expander shouldn't walk but it will float. I use them and thought the same as you and every one of them wouldn't budge. They must be peened or crimped or something. Plus it helps to keep the whole spindle slightly loose in die but of course the lock nut is snugged up.